E SC A P E . EX P LOR E . EX P E R I ENCE
Mormon Mountain: Hike It for
the Ponderosas & Wildflowers
Historic Schools: Converting
Old Classrooms Into Art Studios
Best Drive on the North Rim?
The Forest Road to Timp Point
DINING, FAMILY GETAWAYS,
HISTORY & CULTURE
A PORTFOLIO THAT
EVEN PAUL BUNYAN
OF AZ 50
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 1
◗ After a monsoon storm passes through, a rain-bow
arcs over the landscape of the Little
Colorado River Valley, west of Springerville.
PHOTOGRAPH BY HARTMUT KANNEGIESSER
FRONT COVER A New Mexican checkermallow
blooms on the banks of the West Fork of the
Black River in the Apache-Sitgreaves National
Forests. PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM DANIELSEN
BACK COVER Oddly shaped hoodoos dominate the
badlands near Page in Northern Arizona.
PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE STOCKING
• POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE
2 EDITOR’S LETTER
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
5 THE JOURNAL
People, places and things from
around the state, including Tucson’s
best gelato spot, according to
Olympic gold medalist Kerri
Strug; the weird nature of the
tarantula hawk; and a restaurant
in Sedona that’s so good you’ll
forget about the surrounding red
rocks — for an hour or so, anyway.
52 SCENIC DRIVE
North Rim Viewpoints: Timp
Point, North Timp Point,
Parissawampitts Point ... they’re
not as well known as some of the
other Canyon viewpoints, but
they’re equally impressive.
54 HIKE OF THE MONTH
Mormon Mountain Trail: Along
with views of Mormon Lake,
this quiet hike features an old-growth
forest of ponderosa pines
and several meadows that will
be awash with wildflowers.
56 WHERE IS THIS?
14 BEST OF AZ
There’s no way of putting together a definitive list
of the best of everything. Especially in a place like
Arizona, where the range of people, places and
things is as vast as the Grand Canyon. Neverthe-less,
in our ongoing effort to steer you toward
the state’s superlatives, we present our second-annual
Best of AZ package.
BY KELLY KRAMER
30 BRANCHING OUT
Admittedly, the most impressive tree in North
America — maybe the world — is the General
Sherman. Nothing compares to the giant sequoia
in California’s Sierra Nevada. It’s amazing, but so
are some of the cottonwoods, sycamores, pon-derosas
and junipers in Arizona. In this month’s
portfolio, we showcase a sizable collection of the
state’s mightiest trees.
A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY PAUL BUNYAN
42 OLD SCHOOLS
Thomas Wolfe said you can’t go home again,
but school’s a different subject, particularly as
it relates to elementary, junior high and high
schools from the early 20th century. Across the
United States, these classic old buildings are
being repurposed into art spaces and other public
venues. It’s even happening here in Arizona.
BY JACKIE DISHNER
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD MAACK
48 HOW TO DEAL
Local artwork isn’t hard to find. Throughout
Arizona, Native Americans can be found selling
their jewelry, paintings and pottery at roadside
stands, trading posts and galleries. It’s accessible,
which might be why the general public perceives
Indian art like Mexican art, where bartering is a
part of the equation. In the Southwest, that’s not
BY SUZANNE WRIGHT
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF KIDA
Visit our website for details on week-end
getaways, hiking, lodging, dining,
photography workshops, slideshows
and more. Also, check out our blog
for daily posts on just about anything
related to travel in Arizona, including
road closures, environmental news,
festivals and other valuable info we
couldn’t fit in the magazine.
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Photographic Prints Available
Prints of some photographs in this issue,
including this photo, are available for pur-chase.
To view options, visit www.arizona
highwaysprints.com. For more information,
Best Cover Material
West Fork, Black River
When selecting an image for this
month’s cover, we had one objec-tive:
find something that looks idyl-lic
— the kind of place you’d want
to escape to in August. Tom Dan-ielsen’s
shot of the Black River is
exactly what we had in mind. We
think it’s the kind of photograph
that “takes you there.” Go ahead,
have another look. Can’t you just
picture yourself lazing around
in the cool grass and listening
to the trickle of the river as it
meanders through the lush
forest? That’s what we
thought. Great job, Tom.
This is the best.
E SC A P E . EX P LOR E . EXP E R I E NCE
Mormon Mountain: Hike It for
the Ponderosas & Wildflowers
Historic Schools: Converting
Old Classrooms Into Art Studios
Best Drive on the North Rim?
The Forest Road to Timp Point
diNiNg, FamiLy getaways,
history & CuLture
a PortFoLio that
eveN PauL BuNyaN
O f OuR
Of Az 50
2 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 3
A full-time writer and motivational speaker, Jackie
Dishner has made a living out of telling other peo-ple’s
stories. “I tell people to dig inside themselves
and find their motivation,” she says. “I love helping
people tap into their inner strengths.” Dishner, who
moved to Yuma from Indiana when she was 12, has
since traveled to every corner of Arizona and found
her own motivation in one of the state’s more iso-lated
places. It was a visit to the small town of Ajo
that inspired Old Schools (page 42), a story about an
ongoing movement to convert historic schools into
artists’ spaces. “I’m drawn to stories that get you
out of the city,” she says. “Anything that takes me
outside of my normal routine is ideal.” Dishner is a
regular contributor to Arizona Highways.
Jill Schildhouse wrote her first book when she was
in fourth grade and was chosen to represent her
school at a Young Author’s Conference. “From then
on, I knew writing was my passion,” she says. In this
month’s Journal (page 8), Schildhouse writes about
Prescott’s Pleasant Street Inn Bed & Breakfast, which
she describes as a place “wonderfully untouched by
society.” “I should spend less time traveling out of
state and more time enjoying the many local sights
I’ve yet to see,” she adds. Having worked as a writer
and an editor, Schildhouse has worn many hats, but
her favorite is that of a writer. “When I’m writing, I feel
a great sense of creativity and freedom,” she says. Her
work has also appeared in Muscle & Performance and
Vim & Vigor.
Whether he’s canoeing down Utah’s Green River or visit-ing
Arizona’s Indian reservations, there’s one thing Tom
Danielsen never leaves at home — his camera. “I love
photographing beautiful scenery, especially Indian ruins,”
he says. “We have so many different tribes and groups
here.” Danielsen also enjoys hiking in Arizona because it
gives him an opportunity to photograph places most peo-ple
rarely see. “They just don’t realize that scenery like
that exists here,” he says about this month’s cover photo,
which he captured while hiking along the Black River in
the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests. Danielsen is a
longtime contributor to Arizona Highways. His images
have also appeared in National Geographic, Smithsonian
books and the Jim Henson cartoon Muppet Babies.
a couple of months ago, I had an opportunity to work with some journalism
students on the Hopi Nation. The kids, the culture, the surrounding land-scape
... it was an incredible experience. The experience of a lifetime. Then,
about a week later, I was at the other end of the state, in Nogales, where I had an
opportunity to spend some time with 94-year-old Paul Bond, the legendary boot
maker who’s done custom work for everyone from John Wayne to Ralph Lauren. It
was an incredible experience. The experience of a lifetime.
As editor of Arizona Highways, I have the privilege of meeting all kinds of fascinat-ing
people. I also get to explore the state’s magnificent backcountry. I’m out there a
lot, which inspires people to ask: “What’s your favorite place in Arizona?”
It’s impossible to answer that question — there’s no way to narrow it down to just
one. When I’m in the Bear Wallow Wilderness, that’s my favorite place. When I’m in
Ramsey Canyon, that’s my favorite place. And later this month, when I’m up on the
North Rim, the Grand Canyon Lodge will be my favorite place. That is, until I ride my
mountain bike out to Timp Point, which is featured in this month’s Scenic Drive, and
pitch my tent at DeMotte Campground, which is featured in this month’s cover story.
The campground, which sits amid a spectacular meadow on the Kaibab Plateau,
is one of 50 people, places and things in our second-annual “Best of Arizona” issue.
We’ve named DeMotte the “Best Place to Go Where Seldom Is Heard a Discouraging
Word.” Bear Wallow is on the list, too, and so are Ramsey Canyon, Coal Mine Can-yon
and Bass Canyon. There’s more than canyons, though. Best of AZ is a mix of things
that fall into one of seven categories: lodging, dining, adventure, history & culture,
photography, nature and family getaways.
Boyce Thompson Arboretum (“Best Way to Have a G’day, Mate”) is one of our
favorite family getaways. There’s a long list of reasons to visit this unique state park,
but we like it because of its Australian Desert, which, as the name suggests, is an
area bursting with plants from Down Under, including “Mr. Big.” The name is appro-priate.
Mr. Big is a massive red gum eucalyptus tree that was planted in 1926 and is
now more than 140 feet tall. In fact, Mr. Big is so big that he sits atop the registry of
big trees as the largest red gum eucalyptus in the United States.” The tree is the high
point of the Australian Desert, and a focal point
in this month’s portfolio.
The theme of the portfolio — “big trees” —
was inspired by an enormous cottonwood that
grows at the east entrance of Aravaipa Canyon.
After seeing it, I thought for sure it had to be the
biggest of its kind in Arizona. It’s not. There’s
an even bigger cottonwood down in Patagonia.
That tree made the opening spread of the port-folio.
When you look at it, look closely. There’s a
woman standing at the base of the tree. It’ll give
you some idea of just how big that tree really is.
Equally impressive is an alligator juniper in
the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests, along
with an Arizona sycamore in Ramsey Canyon,
which isn’t just a giant, but an ancient giant
that dates back to 1760. That’s not as old as the
bristlecone pines on Humphreys Peak, but it’s a
lot older than the oldest schools in Arizona. And
some of those are pretty old. What’s left of them,
Like a lot of historic buildings, many of the old
schools in our state have been bulldozed or left
in disrepair. Not all of them, however. Some, like
the Curley School in Ajo and the old Jerome High
School, are being preserved and repurposed as
public art spaces. As Jackie Dishner writes in Old
Schools, “Where wooden desks with empty ink-wells
once lined creaky-floored classrooms lit up
by 8-foot-tall windows, you now see paint-splat-tered
easels, recycled art supplies and creative
types painting, designing, writing, producing —
creating art in some form or another.”
Our story focuses on a handful of projects
around Arizona, and they’re impressive. They’re
good for communities, they’re good for art-ists
and they’re good for historic preservation.
Although the thought of going back to school can
be a little unnerving, I hope you’ll reward these
efforts and check them out. You may not have the
experience of a lifetime, but if it’s even half as
interesting as a school visit on the Hopi Nation,
you’ll be glad you went.
AU G U S T 2 0 1 0 V O L . 8 6 , N O. 8
Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published
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Letters to the Editor
2039 W. Lewis Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85009
JANICE K. BREWER
Director, Department of Transportation
JOHN S. HALIKOWSKI
Arizona Transportation Board
ROBERT M. MONTOYA
WILLIAM J. FELDMEIER
FELIPE ANDRES ZUBIA
BARBARA ANN LUNDSTROM
VICTOR M. FLORES
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KELLY O. ANDERSON
ROBERT STIEVE, editor
If you like what you see in this
magazine every month, check
out Arizona Highways Television,
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hosted by former news
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ARIZONA HIGHWAYS TV
Follow me on Twitter: www.twitter.com/azhighways.
4 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 5
I loved your article about the Bell
Trail [Summer Hiking Guide, June
2010]. I walked it last Thursday with
29 of the 6th graders from Beaver
Creek School, located in Rimrock.
Yesterday, the 8th graders went, and
on Wednesday, it’s the 7th graders’
turn. It’s like a rite of passage for the
kids at Beaver Creek School. It’s been
a tradition for many years that on the
last week or two of school the 6th
through 8th graders go with Coach
on the Bell Trail for the day. At Bell
Crossing (locally known as “The
Crack”) they’re allowed to swim and
jump off the big red-rock boulders.
They first have to prove they can
handle the hike by running the wash
(2 miles round-trip) at the school
within the allotted time, and when
they reach the crack they have to
prove they can swim. It’s a fun tradi-tion
that I love being a small part of.
LYNN LEONARD, RIMROCK, ARIZONA
WALK THIS WAY
I love your magazine. The best thing I
ever did was subscribe several years
ago. I do have a question on hiking
trails. Are there any kinds of trails
that would accommodate a walker? I
have a whole list of scenic drives that
I’ll be taking now that I’m retired, but
it would sure be nice to get out of the
car and be able to walk a short distance.
JAN PARRENT, PHOENIX
EDITOR’S NOTE: That’s a great question, Ms.
Parrent, one we’ve been asked many times. As a
result, we’ve created a place on our website (www.
arizonahighways.com) that lists handicap-accessi-ble
trails, all of which will accommodate a walker.
A few issues back you published an
article on Williamson Valley Road.
We recently had an opportunity to
travel this road via ATV, taking it as
far as the junction with CR125. We
then turned right onto CR125 hoping
to access Anvil Rock Road and thus
return to where we parked our truck
and trailer, only to find the road
blocked by a locked gate approxi-mately
10 miles from the junction.
We were disappointed we couldn’t
complete our trip as planned and had
to return the way we came. We’ve
encountered gates previously in our
journeys, but always close them again
after passing through — as I believe
most of us who enjoy traveling the
back roads do. We enjoy your maga-zine,
and especially the articles on
CLARE JONES, KINGMAN, ARIZONA
WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED
I’ve enjoyed Arizona Highways for
many years, starting when I lived
in Arizona. This year, I decided to
share past issues with my doctor’s
office. The next time I went in for
an appointment, I looked for the
magazines in the reception room and
they weren’t there. To my surprise,
I found them in every examination
room, where they’d been left by
patients. Thank you for sharing all
that Arizona beauty with us. What a
great way to start and end the day.
GERTRUDE MORGAN, HEMET, CALIFORNIA
THUMBS UP, CHUCK
I was reading the May 2010 issue
today, enjoying all the wonders of
our Grand Canyon through the pages
that are so beautifully presented. I
knew you held Charles Bowden in
high regard. However, I didn’t truly
appreciate him — his thoughts and
words — until I read his article, All
My Grand Canyons. As he carried us
back through his life and experi-ences
with the Canyon, I found
myself remembering, too. I recalled
my first visit there when very young
... I remembered hearing my dad play
the Grand Canyon Suite. As I travel
down my life’s journey, one thing
I’ve learned is how very precious our
memories of wonderful experiences
are. Thanks for the memories.
FRANCEEN DAPRATO, SUN LAKES, ARIZONA
In your May 2010 issue, an article in
The Journal identified the coyote as
Apetitius giganticus. Even though this
may have been a tongue-in-cheek
reference to Wile E. Coyote of car-toon
fame, the actual Linnaean name
for the coyote is Canis latrans. I’m
thinking that you wouldn’t want an
unsuspecting reader to mistakenly
use your information in the wrong
DAVID R. WASHABAU, FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA
If you have
we’d love to hear
from you. We can
be reached at
by mail at 2039
W. Lewis Avenue,
85009. For more
There’s nothing like running the Colorado
in a wooden dory. Traditional, graceful
and quiet, oar-powered dories are the
only acceptable option for Grand Canyon
purists. Information: 800-346-6277 or
people > dining > lodging > photography > history > nature > things to do > > > > letters THE JOURNAL 08.10 to the editor
6 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 w w w . a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 7
Five-star chef Ivan Flowers has earned his chops, and then some. He’s overseen the kitch-ens
of Sedona’s L’Auberge and Phoenix’s Different Pointe of View and T. Cooks, to name
a few. But he’s not resting on his laurels. The menu at Fournos, Flowers’ latest venture, is
just as seductive as his creations of yore.
“To me, cooking is driven by how delicious you can make your cuisine for your guests every
time they enter that door,” says Flowers, who serves as owner, prep cook and executive chef.
“Lose this and you lose yourself as a chef.”
Of his unassuming, 24-seat bistro-style eatery in West Sedona, he quips: “I think of it as a
birth-control pill. Small, but highly effective.”
It’s not the kind of thing you’d expect to hear from a decorated chef, but Flowers is anything
but stuffy. He’s more of an epicurean rebel-with-a-cause. Case in point: On off-days, he trades
his toque for a bandana, and loves riding his Harley with his wife, Tracy. But as his cooking
reveals, his presence in the kitchen is perfectly polished and top-notch.
He’s dubbed the cuisine at Fournos as “Declectic,” a “delicious and eclectic French, Italian,
Mediterranean and New American technique with a touch of grandma.” That description,
however, hardly does his cooking justice. Example: Flowers says that if you’re only going to
have one of his dishes, let it be the duck, three ways — a chocolate balsamic breast, a sweet-chili-
glazed confit and a white-truffle duck pâté. (Don’t worry leaf-eaters, if you’re salivating
like a hyena on the hunt as you read this, we won’t tell anyone.)
The duck notwithstanding, Flowers’ favorite dish is the creamy, mushroom-infused lobster
bisque. Why? Because “it makes you want to smoke a cigarette after
eating it,” he says. He’s so not priggish.
Whatever you order, pace yourself, because as Flowers has
engineered it, the experience at Fournos is much more of a gradual
Take a well-known chef, a menu that combines New American technique
with a touch of grandma, surround it with the red rocks of Sedona, and
you’ve got Fournos, Ivan Flowers’ spectacular 24-seat bistro.
By MARYAL MILLER
FROM THE FRONT LINES, veteran forester Mary
Stuever witnessed the devastation that was the
Rodeo-Chediski Fire — a wind-whipped
blaze that turned nearly a
half-million acres of prime forest in
East-Central Arizona into an ugly, blackened moon-scape
during the summer of 2002.
Stuever was touched deeply by the damage to the
land and the impact on its people.
Then she decided to take matters into her own
hands. She would spend the next 5 years working for
the White Mountain Apache Tribe, planting trees and
educating, and breathing new life into the fire-ravaged
landscape for all to see.
“It was an amazing job,” says Stuever, 51, who now
lives in a log cabin made of Utah spruce near Albu-querque,
New Mexico. “I went to bed every night
knowing that I made a difference in someone’s life or
in restoring the land.”
Her experiences in Arizona and the surrounding
region are chronicled in a new book, The Forester’s Log:
Musings From the Woods, a collection of columns penned
during a career that started when the fresh-faced
youth became a ranger in New Mexico in 1978.
She would go on to hike 2,000 miles along the Con-tinental
Divide from New Mexico to Old Faithful in
Yellowstone before graduating with a forestry degree
from Oklahoma State University.
The outdoors were never far away from Stuever. She
worked for state and federal agencies in Arizona and
New Mexico and as a private consultant, spending
time in the field and teaching about the ecosystems
that make up the forests.
Her work continues today. Stuever is a forester in
New Mexico. She’s a firefighter. She remains passion-ate
about what it takes to manage the vast acreage of
forestland scattered throughout the Southwest.
“There has to be a long-term commitment,” Stuever
says. “There is no instant, overnight fix. And it
requires a lot of resources that we haven’t yet been
Stuever says the effort begins with responsible
thinning of the nation’s cluttered, thick forests. That
includes using natural fires and prescribed burns as
weapons in the fight.
“We’ve kept fire out of our forests for so long that
the density is unnatural,” she says. “We also have to go
in and cut out trees. There’s too much fuel out there.”
But with all her concern comes hope — much like
what she found upon her return to the scene of the
Rodeo-Chediski Fire last year. Grass was taking hold;
trees were stretching into the air.
“That’s amazing stuff,” she says. “It shows what can
happen when you do things right.”
Mary Stuever witnessed the worst
fire disaster in Arizona history. She
didn’t leave with the firetrucks, though.
Instead, she spent the next 5 years
planting trees and restoring the fire-ravaged
By DAVID SCHWARTZ
descent into flavor ecstasy than a rapid
free-fall that starts and stops with the main
course. In fact, the warm, fresh bread with
pesto, Parmesan and garlic dip-ping
sauce that Tracy diligently
delivers before every meal,
paired with a recommendation from the
carefully curated selection of boutique wines,
might be reason enough to return.
You’ll want to hang on for the entire ride,
though. The roasted mushrooms with garlic
appetizer — it’s drizzled in brandy and sprin-kled
with rocca parmagiano — is a must, and
the simple Caesar salad with creamy garlic
limóncello dressing could be hailed an epic
experience. And then there are the entrées,
which change seasonally. These are Flowers’
pièce de résistance, and they only tighten Four-nos’
For the carnivorous crowd, if you’re lucky
enough to see the duck or slowly braised
Kurabuto pork osso buco with cider-roasted
apple-herb orzo on the menu, order imme-diately.
For vegetarians, go for the fresh far-falle
pasta with oven-roasted tomatoes and
mushrooms in a tomato al fresco sauce. But
you’re not done yet. You can’t leave without
sampling one of Tracy’s desserts, particularly
the blissfully light, fluffy tiramisu. It’s not nec-essarily
declectic, but it’s definitely a classic.
Like everything else at Fournos.
Fournos is located at
3000 Highway 89A in Se-dona.
For more informa-tion,
THEJOURNAL > dining
Growing up in
Arizona, what were
your favorite outdoor
I enjoyed being with
my family. We’d hike
the Grand Canyon
and swim in the
summer. I really liked
bike-riding in my
Talk about Tucson.
Tucson is just home.
It’s where my parents
are. I love everything
about it, whether it’s
the warm weather
or the beautiful
you associate [a
place] with home, it’s
always very special
for a lot of different
If you were trying
to persuade the
to hold the games in
Arizona, what would
your argument be?
Lots of open space,
kind people … but
I don’t think we’re
big enough for
something like that!
We don’t have the
venues or infrastruc-ture,
but it would be
What Arizona restau-rant
would you give a
I love Vivace, Beyond
Bread and Frost
Gelato in Tucson. Vi-vace
is a fancy Italian
restaurant, so I’d give
it the gold medal.
Best place to live in
I’d prefer Tucson, to
be near my parents,
family and friends.
— Dave Pratt is the
author of Behind the
Mic: 30 Years in Radio
P R A T T ’ S Q&A
O N L I N E For more dining in Arizona, visit our “Dining Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
THE JOURNAL > people
S E D O N A
W H I T E
M O U N T A I N S
8 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 9
Longtime Arizona Highways photographer Tom Bean says the best
photos are sometimes serendipitous. For example, you never know
when you might stumble upon a lone pine in a grove of aspens.
By JEFF KIDA, photo editor
INNKEEPER JEANNE WATKINS is most likely the first person you’ll see when you arrive at
Pleasant Street Inn Bed and Breakfast. She’ll be quick to hand over a set of keys so that you
can come and go as you please, but at first, you won’t want to go anywhere — the green
1906 Victorian house is just that inviting. Nevertheless, Watkins will start playing tour
guide by circling must-see local attractions on a colorful map. The inn, which is located in
Prescott’s historic district, is within easy walking distance of Courthouse Plaza, popular
restaurants, galleries, boutiques, museums and, of course, Whiskey Row.
Before Watkins purchased the house in 2003 — at its current location on the corner of South
Pleasant Street and Goodwin — it spent 84 years at 232 S. Marina Street. In 1990, the city of
Prescott chose South Marina for its new police station, so instead of destroying
the 3,500-square-foot house, the city moved it four blocks to its present loca-tion.
The interior was refitted with new plumbing and wiring, and the building
as a whole was remodeled into a bed and breakfast. The 100-year-old molding, doors and stair-case,
as well as the 10-foot ceilings, were preserved to display the home’s history.
With two bedrooms and two suites, all with private bathrooms, you’re guaranteed a com-fortable
stay. Upstairs, the romantic Pine View Suite has a
bay window, fireplace, full-size sofa bed and small TV in
the sitting room, a king-size bed in the bedroom and a large,
A Pleasant Evening
With a name like Pleasant Street Inn Bed and Breakfast, expectations are
high among visitors to this historic home in downtown Prescott. It’s not the
name, though, that makes this place so charming — it’s Jeanne Watkins,
By JILL SCHILDHOUSE
double-sink bathroom with tub and shower.
The interior design is impressive, too, but
most visitors find it hard to focus on the
eclectic mix of Asian and Native American
décor because they’re captivated by the
thoughtful touches Watkins has peppered
throughout the rooms to ensure that every
need is met: There are terry robes in the
closet, a bottle opener and glasses on a side
table, a vase of fresh flowers, and a mini-fridge
stocked with bottled water, although
Watkins swears the tap water is delicious.
Because of Watkins’ hospitality, you might
feel guilty for not wanting to pry yourself out
of bed in the morning. But coming down the
stairs to the smell of freshly brewed coffee
and the sounds of piano music playing softly
in the background is a worthy tradeoff. And
biting into almond-topped french toast, sau-sage
links and a medley of fresh fruit, while
sharing tales of the previous night’s adven-tures
with Watkins and the other guests,
makes it easy to understand why this inn
was destined to move to Pleasant Street. It
doesn’t get any more pleasurable than this.
Pleasant Street Inn is located at 142 S.
Pleasant Street in Prescott. For more
information, call 877-226-7128.
IT’S A BREEZE
Have you ever tried
to shoot summer
wildflowers in breezy
conditions? It’s not
easy, but there are two
methods that work. If
you don’t need
of field (a
frame), open your lens
aperture as wide as
you can. If that doesn’t
do the trick, raise your
ISO (sensor sensitiv-ity).
Most DSLRs will
render good image
quality up to 800
ISO. Either technique
allows you to increase
the camera’s shutter
speed in order to
arrest motion in your
THEJOURNAL > photography
O N L I N E
For more photography
tips and other informa-tion,
highways.com and click
Look for our book,Arizona
Guide, available at
bookstores and www.
THE JOURNAL > lodging
O N L I N E For more lodging in Arizona, visit our “Lodging Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
WHEN FLAGSTAFF-BASED PHOTOGRAPHER TOM BEAN headed to the Inner Basin Trail on
an August afternoon, he didn’t have any preconceived notions about what type of image he
wanted to make. That morning, he saw summer monsoon clouds building up over the San
Francisco Peaks and knew the soft light they provided could lead to some interesting pho-tographs.
Using a 24-105 zoom lens at a 50-mm focal length, Bean composed the elements
within the frame, relying on both textures and colors. “What attracted me to this scene was
the conifer. In a way it tells a story, which is what happens with these aspen groves. The coni-fer
is a different shape, it’s a different color and it’s a different age. Its size suggests emerging
youth among these mature aspen trees. That contrast was interesting to me.” Bean adds that
being open to your surroundings is key. “This was a found image. I didn’t go out with a set
idea of [photographing] something I’d imagined. Basically, [the process] is more like hunting.”
Aspen grove along the Inner Basin Trail
near Flagstaff. PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM BEAN
P R E S C O T T
10 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 11
BY THE TIME ARTIST Thomas Moran made his first trip to the
Grand Canyon with Major John Wesley Powell in the summer
of 1873, he was already famous for his landscapes of
the American West. The year before, Congress had
purchased his massive painting, Grand Cañon of the Yel-lowstone,
for $10,000 — a large sum at the time.
Yet, when Moran saw the Grand Canyon, he was even more
inspired than he’d been at Yellowstone. He wrote to his wife, Mary,
“The whole gorge for miles lay beneath us and it was by far the most
awfully grand and impressive scene that I have ever yet seen.”
Two years later, the artist duplicated his Yellowstone success,
selling The Chasm of the Colorado, the painting that resulted from his
Grand Canyon trip, to Congress for another $10,000. And that was
The Grand Master
For more than a century, a who’s who of talented
artists have been making paintings of the
Grand Canyon. Few, however, have achieved
the notoriety of Thomas Moran.
By SALLY BENFORD
just the beginning of Moran’s relation-ship
with the natural wonder.
Moran continued his painting excur-sions
throughout the West, and soon the
Grand Canyon became a favorite destina-tion.
In 1892, the Santa Fe Railroad hired
Moran to paint various scenes of the
Canyon, which the railroad reproduced
on promotional materials — calendars, menus, posters and bro-chures
— for Eastern tourists, hoping they’d buy a train ticket and
head West to see the region’s dramatic landscapes. After Moran’s
wife died in 1900, the artist spent the next 25 years traveling to
Arizona, producing hundreds of different representations of the
Canyon’s magnificent vistas for the Santa Fe. At one point, Moran
became so closely tied to the Canyon that the railroad used an
image of the artist in their advertisements. Moran’s renderings set
the standard for other landscape artists, who, for more than a cen-tury,
have fostered an appreciation of the natural wonder.
Although it was Moran’s Yellowstone sketches, drawings and
paintings from 1871 that helped convince Congress to protect
portions of the American landscape as “a public park or pleasur-ing-
ground for the benefit and enjoyment of people,” the Grand
Canyon was his greatest source of inspiration. Years after he first
saw it, he wrote, “Of all places on Earth, the great canyon of Ari-zona
is the most inspiring in its pictorial possibilities.”
Nearly 5 million people visit the Grand Canyon each year,
including hundreds of artists, some of whom can be seen in action
beginning next month during the Grand Canyon Celebration of
Art, a weeklong event that features some of today’s top landscape
artists. The event is sponsored by the
Grand Canyon Association, and takes
place from September 11 to November 28
on the South Rim.
For more information on
the Celebration of Art, call
800-858-2808 or visit
■ Work began in
August 1928 on the
restoration of the
Mansion in Prescott.
Hall enlisted the
help of Flagstaff
lumber moguls Mi-chael
Riordan to work on
Grande Ruins a
on August 3, 1918.
■ Southern Arizona
pioneer Pete Kitch-en
died on August
5, 1895. Kitchen
came to the Arizona
Territory in 1854
and established his
ranch, El Potrero,
which became a
haven from Apache
Indian attacks along
the dangerous road
between Tucson and
Our August 1960 issue had a kind of UFO
quality to it. Among other things, it featured a
piece on Lowell Observatory’s search for po-tential
life on Mars and another story on the
state’s ghost towns, both of which captured
Arizona’s eerie individuality.
50 years ago
I N A R I Z O N A H I G H W A Y S
THEJOURNAL > history
NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY CLINE LIBRARY
Tarantula Hawk is a psychedelic rock
band from San Diego. Really. More
familiar to the Average Joe, however,
is the tarantula hawk, the variety of spider
wasp that uses its arachnid namesake as a
The wasp is found wherever tarantulas live,
which means it’s common in Arizona and
across the Southwest. A “nectivorous” insect,
the tarantula hawk is a connoisseur of fruit
and, reportedly, it’ll even get a little loopy
after consuming a fermented feast.
Christopher Starr, in his article A Pain Scale
for Bee, Wasp and Ant Stings, gave the taran-tula
hawk a designation of four, on a scale of
one to four, which means if a t-hawk stings
you, at the very least, you’ll cry, and at the
very worst, you’ll probably wish you’d been
run over by a herd of wildebeests instead.
Luckily, the pain typically subsides within 3
minutes, but it’s easy to see why the taran-tula
hawk has only a few predators, including
Male wasps engage in a bizarre behavior
known as hill-topping, wherein they perch
themselves on the tallest vegetation in any
given area in an effort to survey mate-ready
females. It’s a demonstration of bravado, for
sure, but when it comes to genuine daring,
the girls usually fall for it.
Female wasps, which can measure up to 2
inches in length, seek out tarantulas by smell.
Once the wasp has honed in on a suitable
victim, she’ll sting the spider, thus paralyzing
it. If the spider puts up a fight, the tarantula
hawk will flip the spider onto its back with a
takedown that’s reminiscent of something
you might see in a televised cage-fight. Occa-sionally,
tired from the attack, the female
wasp will drain the spider of much of its body
fluid and drag it into its own burrow, where
she’ll lay a single egg on the stunned spider’s
Once the larva grows, it begins to feed on
the spider, developing rapidly until the infant
wasp busts open the spider’s abdomen
and proceeds to eat the rest of the spider’s
innards. Thus, a baby tarantula hawk is born.
It’s not glamorous, but some might consider
The Sting Tarantula hawks have a scary name and a scarier
reputation. Human beings needn’t worry much, but if you’re a spider,
you’d better watch your back. And abdomen. By KELLY KRAMER
THEJOURNAL > nature
Cactus wrens aren’t the
only birds that nest inside
saguaros. The ladderback
woodpecker is also a fan of
the cactus, but won’t scoff
at cottonwood, pine or mes-quite
trees, either. Similar
in appearance to a Nuttall’s
woodpecker, the ladderback
boasts a black-and-white
face and spotted flanks.
Males are crowned with a
patch of red feathers.
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
G R A N D
C A N Y O N
12 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0
GR AN D CAN YON
The spectacular fall color along the Grand Canyon’s North Rim
provides wonderful opportunities to photograph the golden aspens,
scrub oaks and evergreens that cling to the Canyon’s cliffs. During this
workshop, which takes place September 29-October 3, Peter Ensen-berger,
Arizona Highways’ former director of photography, will lead
participants to the perfect places to capture the vibrant reds, bronzes
and golds along the rim, and the golden sunsets that cast brooding
shadows in the Canyon’s recesses. Information: 888-790-7042 or www.
In the Mood
AUGUS T 1 - 1 5 P HOENI X
Explore the glamour and sophistication
of 1940s American fashion during this
exhibition at Phoenix Art Museum. Drawn
primarily from the museum’s permanent
collection, the exhibit explores the role
that women and fashion played during
World War II. Information: 602-257-1222 or
AU G U S T 1 4
BUL LHE A D C I T Y
The theme for this year’s
regatta is Rockin’ on the
River. Arrive by Friday
evening for the Ye Gotta
Regatta Party, which fea-tures
live music, carnival
games and food. On Sat-urday,
enjoy a lazy 8-mile
float or build a creative,
nonmotorized float and
parade down the Colorado
River. The Flotilla Monster
Bash in Rotary Park follows.
Information: 928-763-0158 or
THEJOURNAL > things to do
of Arts and Culture
AUGUS T 7- 8 F L AGS TA F F
This show at the Museum of Northern Ari-zona
features more than 70 Navajo artists,
storytellers and cultural interpreters. You’ll find basket makers, rug
weavers, silversmiths, potters, painters and storytellers creating
works on-site. Plus, you can learn about the Navajo “Beauty Way,”
hike with a Navajo ethnobotanist and watch the Pollen Trail Dancers.
Information: 928-774-5213 or www.musnaz.org.
AUGUS T 2 7-2 9 PR E SCOT T
Jazz aficionados should head to Prescott for “A Jazz Party of the First
Order.” The event’s lineup features Fred Radke, leader of the Harry
James Orchestra; Mike Vax, leader of the Stan Kenton Alumni Band;
and Dennis Rowland, a vocalist from the Count Basie Band. Perfor-mances
take place at Hassayampa Inn and St. Michael’s Hotel. Infor-mation:
928-771-1268 or www.bigbandjazz.net/calendar/prescott
Prickly Pear Fruit Harvest
AUGUS T 1 4 , 2 2 TUCSON
Prickly pear fruit ripens for harvest in
August. At Arizona-Sonora Desert
Museum, you can learn how the beautiful
red fruit is turned into jelly and frozen
sorbet, and how the pads become
nopalitos, a Mexican food staple.
Information: 520-883-3086 or
Use Code P0H5WL when ordering to take advantage
of this special offer. Offer expires August 31, 2010.
Order now and save $2
12” x 9” 13-month spiral-bound
calendar with 30 color photographs
#CLW11 was $10.99 Now $8.99!
After decades of doing scenic
landscape calendars, we figured
it was time to add something
new to the mix. Thus, our 2011
Wildlife Calendar, which fea-tures
classic Arizona Highways
Best Place to Worship
an Icon at Sunset
Saguaro National Park, Tucson
If you’re going to make a photograph
that represents Arizona, you might
as well combine two of the things
that most people associate with
the state — saguaros and sunsets.
When it comes to finding the for-mer,
your best bet is the national
park with the cactus in its name.
Saguaros are protected at Saguaro
National Park, where you’ll find
plenty of the giants waiting to be
photographed, as well as 10 species
of threatened, endangered or sensi-tive
plants. When it comes to find-ing
spectacular sunsets, all you have
to do is sit back, enjoy the scenery
and wait. Information: 520-733-5153 or
Unless you’re über-omniscient or an arrogant know-it-all, there’s no way of putting together
a definitive list of the best of everything. Especially in a place like Arizona, where the
range of people, places and things is as vast as the Grand Canyon. Nevertheless, in our
ongoing effort to steer you toward the state’s superlatives, we present our second-annual
Best of AZ package. From the beefiest bratwurst to the best place to shack up with the
stars, this is our take on the best places to eat, stay and play in Arizona. By Kelly Kramer
PHOTOGRAPH BY JACK DYKINGA
14 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 w w w . a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 15
16 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 17
B E S T O F
P H O T O G R A P H Y
Best Place to Shoot in the Shadow of a Legend
Bear Wallow Wilderness Area, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests
It isn’t easy being the son of a legend. Just ask Julian Lennon. No matter what you do, chances are, your efforts will fall short of pop’s. Josef
Muench was a brilliant photographer, and he left a big pair of shoes for his son David to fill, which he did. If you’re a frequent reader of
Arizona Highways, you know that both men have played a major role in the magazine’s legacy. Although their styles differ, their photographs
are equally spectacular. There’s no guarantee you’ll be able to shoot like a Muench, but if you want to give it a shot, head to one of David’s
favorite places to photograph: Bear Wallow Wilderness Area. Information: 928-339-5000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf.
Best Way to Play the Slots
Arizona Highways Slot Canyons Photo Workshop
Hosted by former Arizona Highways Director of Pho-tography
Peter Ensenberger, this four-day workshop
explores some of the state’s most stunning geologic
formations — slot canyons. From Upper Antelope
Canyon and the Paria Bluffs to Horseshoe Bend and
Waterholes Canyon, photographers will have the
opportunity to capture amazing colors and textures.
And, thanks to Ensenberger’s expert instruction,
everyone will walk away a winner. Information: 602-712-
2004 or www.friendsofazhighways.com.
Best Bet for an Odd Experience
Etherton Gallery, Tucson
The Odd Fellows believe in simple principles — friendship, love and
truth, to name a few. They’re principles that are often celebrated
through photography. Thus, it makes sense for Tucson’s landmark
Odd Fellows Hall to house the Etherton Gallery. The building dates
to 1914, and some of the photographs housed therein are vintage, too,
including the works of Ansel Adams and Harry Callahan. Contem-porary
exhibitions feature the work of regional artists such as Luis
Jimenez and James G. Davis, as well as Arizona Highways photographer
Jack Dykinga. There’s nothing odd about that. Information: 520-624-7370
Best Opportunity for
High-Altitude Peer Review
Flagstaff Photography Club
What’s so great about Thursday? It’s Friday Eve and the day-before-
the-day-before-the-weekend. It’s the day 30 Rock airs on
NBC. It’s also the day the Flagstaff Photography Club meets —
every third and fifth Thursday of the month, anyway. The club,
which has been encouraging local photographers since 1991, spon-sors
themed critique sessions, quarterly “photo of the month”
contests and guest speakers. If you’re into high-altitude shoot-ing,
TiVo Tina Fey and join the club. Information: www.flagstaff
Best Place to Increase Your Speed
Ramsey Canyon, Sierra Vista
D.H. Lawrence imagined hummingbirds racing down ave-nues
in an otherwise dumb, primeval world, “before anything
had a soul, while life was a heave of matter, half inanimate.”
In Ramsey Canyon, as many as 14 species of hummingbirds
buzz about, racing above spring-fed streams and around
giant sycamores. Because their wings flutter between 15 and
200 times per second, you’ll have to move quickly to capture
them on film or in pixels, but with a fast shutter speed, you’ll
have better luck photographing the tiny fliers. Opt for a slow
shutter speed instead, and your avenues will be void of hum-mingbirds.
Information: 520-378-2785 or www.nature.org.
Best Place to See the Lighting on the Walls
Phoenix City Grille, Phoenix
You’ll find cheeseburgers and horseradish mashed potatoes at Phoenix
City Grille, along with pot roast and roasted root vegetables. But for
photography lovers, the real meat and potatoes at this Central Phoenix
hangout is on the walls. Framed photographs celebrate the history of
the nation’s 48th state. Don your glasses to read the menu, then keep
them on to scope out the Grille’s great collection. Information: 602-266-
3001 or www. phoenixcitygrille.com.
DEREK VON BRIESEN BRUCE D. TAUBERT
18 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 19
B E S T O F
L O D G I N G
Best Reason to Sleep
With a Light On
Hassayampa Inn, Prescott
Faith Summers likes to stay at the Hassayampa Inn.
That’s a problem, because Faith is not of the earthly realm.
Legend has it that Faith hung herself after her brand-new
husband went out for cigarettes one night during their
honeymoon in 1927 and never returned. That happened
in room 426, and ever since, people have reported feeling
Faith’s presence in the hotel. One Internet rumor says
the ghost of the betrayed bride likes to give women foot
massages. Apparently she prefers to give men nightmares.
If you’re into doppelganger dreams, book a night in room
426, but if you’re afraid of things that go bump in the
night, you might want to leave the light on. Information:
928-778-9434 or www.hassayampainn.com.
Best Way to Have a Little Hart
Hart Prairie Preserve, near Flagstaff
A community of Bebb willow trees makes Hart Prairie
Preserve special. Well, the willows and the porcupines
and the prairie dogs and the deer and the elk. That’s
why The Nature Conservancy works so hard to protect
it. It’s possible to stay among the Bebbs by booking a
night or two at one of the six cabins on preserve prop-erty.
The largest is known as “The Homestead,” and
it dates to the 1870s, when European settlers built it
as a stop along the Grand Canyon State Route. Today,
the renovated cabin features two bedrooms and an
indoor restroom with a shower. Information: 928-774-8892
Best Place to Juke Like the Duke
Saddlerock Ranch, Sedona
Many travelers have hung their hats at Saddlerock Ranch, including
John Wayne, who frequented the ranch when he was filming in the
Sedona area. Constructed from native materials in the 1920s, Sad-dlerock
backs up to the Coconino National Forest and is within a
short walking distance of one of Sedona’s famed energy vortexes, the
Airport Vortex. Recently restored by new managers, the ranch features
red-rock walls, timber-beam ceilings, flagstone floors and natural rock
fireplaces, as well as a plaque that proclaims it one of Sedona’s historic
landmarks. The ranch is beautiful, romantic, rich with history and
wired. Information: 928-203-6465.
to Dream in Black-and-White
Wigwam Motel, Holbrook
Chester E. Lewis saw his first wigwam village when he passed through
Cave City, Kentucky, in 1938. The motel, the brainchild of Frank Red-ford,
featured 15 teepees and a playground. Lewis was so inspired he
decided to create his own village right here in Arizona, and in 1950, he
built Wigwam Village No. 6 along Route 66 in Holbrook, having pur-chased
the design rights from Redford. Today, guests can stay in one of
15 concrete-and-steel teepees, which feature small bathrooms, restored
hickory furniture, double beds and window-mounted air conditioners.
They’re retro, and so are the cars parked around the property. Check
them out while you’re checking in. Information: 928-524-3048 or www.
Best Place to Shack Up
With the Stars
Kitt Peak National Observatory,
southwest of Tucson
We’re talking about real stars here, not celes-tial
bodies like Brad Pitt. At Kitt Peak National
Observatory, on the Tohono O’odham Nation,
small groups can register for overnight pro-grams
that include exoplanet exploration,
astrophotography and an asteroid quest. The
multiday programs include lodging in Kitt
Peak dormitories, as well as meals and plenty
of space rocks, planets and stars. Dreamy. Infor-mation:
520-318-8726 or www.noao.edu.
Best Excuse to Fly South
Casa de San Pedro, Hereford
Birds. If you like them, you’ll love Casa de San Pedro, nestled on 10 acres
adjacent to the San Pedro River and Riparian National Conservation
Area, and within a short distance of 15 other popular birding areas,
including Ramsey Canyon, Kino Springs and Patagonia Preserve.
When it comes to actual accommodations, Casa de San Pedro is any-thing
but “for the birds.” Each of the 10 guestrooms features a private
bath, tasteful Southwestern décor and works by local artists, as well as
private patios accented with hummingbird-friendly plants. Information:
520-366-1300 or www.bedandbirds.com.
Lobby, Hassayampa Inn
20 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 21
Best Bets for Experiencing the Upper Crust
Miz Zip’s, Flagstaff/Apple Annie’s, Willcox
This is a category that can’t have just one winner. That’s because it has to do with pie, and around here, pie is sacred. So, we picked two
“bests,” one in Northern Arizona and another in Southern Arizona. Flagstaff’s Miz Zip’s is vintage — it opened in 1954 — but its pies are
as fresh as the day they were baked: today. Order a slice of lemon meringue and it’ll tickle your taste buds, especially if it’s topped with a
scoop of melting, coat-your-tongue creamy vanilla ice cream. Some 350 miles away, Apple Annie’s in Willcox serves up some serious pie,
too. That makes sense, considering that Annie’s is an orchard, where apples, peaches and pears are queens. Sweet. Information: Miz Zip’s,
928-526-0104; Apple Annie’s, 520-384-2084 or www.appleannies.com.
Best Beer Without a Buzz
Mr. D’z Route 66 Diner, Kingman
If you visit Mr. D’z, there are three things that should make their way
from the menu to your belly: The first is the bacon cheeseburger — all
of the servers say it’s the must-eat entrée. The second is the banana
split — need we say more? The third is Mr. D’z’s world-famous root
beer. “How world famous is it?” you ask. Well, Oprah liked it so much
she ordered gallons of it for her audience. Oprah. That’s saying some-thing,
and there’s definitely something special about the sweet drink
at Mr. D’z. It’s cold and creamy and kind of like drinking a bunch of
caramel candies — only better. Sure, if you follow our rules, you’ll have
to secretly loosen your belt while your companions aren’t looking,
but who cares? Oprah would approve. Information: 928-718-0066 or www.
Desert Rain Café, Sells
All of the ingredients on the menu at Desert Rain Café are indigenous
to the Tohono O’odham people. That means you’ll find plenty of mes-quite
meal, prickly pear and agave. You’ll also encounter the cholla
bud. Known for its smoky, citrusy flavor, the bud makes an appearance
in the café’s pico de gallo, created by chefs at Tucson’s Canyon Ranch.
The cholla bud is also esteemed for its blood-sugar-lowering quali-ties,
like so many of the foods native to the Sonoran Desert. Hearty
and healthy? That’s one heckuva bud. Information: 520-383-4918 or www.
Best Bet for Cheap Eats
Molcas Mexican Grill, Tucson
Molcas may be a taco stand, but it’s not just a taco stand. It’s a place
where you’ll find homemade chicken flautas topped with smooth
sour cream and salsa verde, steak quesadillas, fresh lemonade and
Sonoran hot dogs — bun-busting creations topped with beans, chili
or you name it. The prices are sweet, too. Perhaps best of all, you
won’t find anything on the menu that breaks the bank. In fact, you
won’t find anything that costs more than $5. Information: 520-295-4466.
Best Way to Beat the Heat and Get Chile
Sal & Teresa’s Mexican Restaurant, Show Low
Some like it hot. If you live in Show Low or vacation there, chances
are you don’t, which is why you’ve touched down in the cool White
Mountains town. But that’s only with regard to the weather. When it
comes to red chile, Show Low residents and visitors like it smokin’, so
they visit Sal & Teresa’s Mexican Restaurant. Consistently referred to
as having the “best food on the mountain,” this family owned hangout
is known for its red chile, whether it’s piled inside a burrito or atop
chiles rellenos. And, you can get it for a steal — slap down $7.95, and
roll away with a red chile burro, taco, rice and beans in your belly.
Doggie bags are free of charge. Information: 928-537-0230.
Best Place to Go Dutch
Byler’s Amish Kitchen, Black Canyon City
Breakfast at Byler’s Amish Kitchen is kind of like breakfast in your
grandma’s kitchen with your extended family. Everyone’s friendly,
windows are dressed in lace and the food’s fresh, hot and just plain
good. You’ll find homemade toast that you can smother with Byler’s
special peanut butter spread (PB, marshmallow topping and maple
syrup), spicy sausage scrambles, arteries-be-damned gravy and pie. It,
too, is homemade, and man, it’s awesome. It even prompted one visitor
to exclaim, “If being Amish means eating like this, I’m throwing away
my car keys.” It’s a point well taken, but keep the keys — you’ll need
them for the drive to Byler’s. Information: 623-374-9330.
B E S T O F
D I N I N G
Best of the Wurst
The Pork Shop, Queen Creek
Say you need to feed an army of people from Wiscon-sin
— people who really, really, really love bratwurst.
You could: A) hit the local grocery store for a few
packs of Johnsonvilles, or B) hit The Pork Shop in
Queen Creek, where you could get a pound of fresh,
savory brats for just $3.99. If you needed 10 pounds
to feed a small army, you’d only spend $39.90. That’s
not too shabby, and neither are the rest of the shop’s
offerings — everything from hickory-smoked bacon
and Arizona summer sausage to Iowa-cut chops and
Russian salami. And if the brats just aren’t enough
to keep your guests happy, you could try the “Half
Hog,” $200 worth of ribs, sausage, ham, chorizo and
pork steaks that give a whole new meaning to the
phrase “pigging out.” Information: 480-987-0101 or www.
Lori & Jude Leonard, Miz Zip’s
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Best Terrain-ing Wheels
Arizona ATV Adventures, Phoenix, Tucson & Sedona
It’s no secret that ATVs can go where passenger cars cannot — into, across and through
some pretty rugged topography. Thanks to Arizona ATV Adventures, you, too, can
explore some of the state’s tough terrain. Guided expeditions traverse Phoenix, Sedona
and Tucson, and include a certified instructor, helmets, gloves, goggles, water and
snacks. Among the highlights are Box Canyon, Skeleton Bone Mountain and West
Sedona Valley. Information: 800-242-6335 or www.arizonaoutdooradventures.com.
Best Reason to Relive the ’80s
Mail Trail 84, Coconino National Forest
When the tiny frontier town of Union Park opened its
first post office in 1884, it also got a new name — Pay-son.
With the new post office came a need to extend the
existing mail route from Camp Verde, some 50 miles
east. Thus, the mail trail was born. Contractor and mail
rider Ash Nebeker created the trail, which was used to
run mail — as well as medicine, dry goods and whiskey
— until Arizona was granted statehood in 1912. Today,
it’s possible to retrace the tracks of Nebeker and other
mail trail riders on foot or on horseback. Be forewarned,
though, Mail Trail 84 is strenuous, and there are no
reliable water sources along the way. Information: 928-527-
3600 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation.
B E S T O F
A D V E N T U R E
Best Spot to Wade Around
Lee’s Ferry is the only spot in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
where water revelers can drive straight up to the Colorado River. That’s
a good thing, especially if you’re lugging fishing equipment. With
abundant bass, crappie, walleye, channel catfish and trout populations,
Lee’s Ferry is a fisherman’s haven, and because live bait and barbed
artificial lures are prohibited, fly fishermen will feel right at home
casting in the cool waters of the Colorado. Information: 928-608-6200 or
Best Dam Diving
Although scuba diving is prohibited directly below Hoover Dam, the waters
of Lake Mead on the Colorado River midway from the dam to the area
between Willow Beach, on the Arizona side, and Eldorado Canyon, on the
Nevada side, are known for their incredible clarity. There, the current reaches
speeds between 3 and 12 mph — nothing too rough, but enough to get you
moving. In Boulder Basin, it’s possible to explore “the boulder islands,” large
cement tanks used during the construction of the dam. Three miles south of
the dam, you’ll find Ringbolt Rapids. There, the water’s ... well, rapid. This
area is for experienced divers only, and a hand-held buddy line and surface
support boat are mandatory. Information: 702-293-8990 or www.nps.gov/lake.
Best Excuse for Having Helmet Hair
Twisted Trailz Motorcycle Tours, Phoenix
Sure, it’s easy to explore Arizona in a car or from the air, but consider
exploring the state on two wheels. Twisted Trailz offers multiday
motorcycle excursions that make it possible to cruise the Old West
(Tombstone, Bisbee and Tucson), the Grand Canyon or the red-rock
areas of Sedona. Other tours cover the Painted Desert and Monument
Valley, and a weeklong adventure includes stops in Prescott, Jerome,
Williams, the Grand Canyon, Flagstaff, Payson, Show Low and more.
History and the wind at your back ... two great reasons to hit the road.
Information: 602-795-8888 or www.twistedtrailz.com.
Best Place to Go Camping Without a Tent
Bouldering at Oak Flat Campground, Superior
At Oak Flat Campground, just 4 miles east of Superior, you’ll be caught
between a rock and a hard place. That is, you’ll be surrounded by the
rocky, rolling hills of Devil’s Canyon — the perfect setting for scram-bling,
climbing and bouldering. In the springtime, it’s also a great
place to see wildflowers. The campground itself is speckled with huge,
shady oak trees and is home to a variety of wildlife. Should you decide
to stay the night after a day of rockin’ and rollin’, be sure to pack out
what you pack in — there’s no trash service at the site. Information:
928-402-6200 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/tonto/recreation.
Best Reason to Pack It Up
Llama hiking, Strawberry
Llamas are fuzzy and friendly — kind of
like a hug with legs. They’re also excellent
pack animals, which is why Fossil Creek
Llama Ranch offers guided hikes with
the South American camelids. During
the half-day treks, you’ll travel along the
Mogollon Rim, exploring Fossil Creek, a
stunning natural travertine spring, as well
as Indian ruins and the perimeter of Tonto
National Forest. The llamas do all of the
heavy lifting, so you can just kick back in
your boots and enjoy the scenery. Back at
the ranch, check out the petting zoo and
Fossil Creek Creamery, home to artisan
goat’s milk cheeses and fudge. Information:
928-476-5178 or www.ranchatfossilcreek.com.
DON B. STEVENSON
DAVID H. SMITH
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Best Bet for a Good Buy
Hubbell Trading Post rug auction, Ganado
When you visit the Southwest, certain things have
a kitschy-souvenir appeal — scorpions under glass,
“snakes” in a can, miniature cactuses. But if you’re a
serious collector or art aficionado, you might consider
visiting Hubbell Trading Post during its semiannual
auction. There, Navajo rugs, Hopi
kachina dolls, pottery, baskets, con-cho
belts, jewelry, cradleboards and
fetishes go to the highest bidder.
The best part? Proceeds benefit the
post and help provide scholarships
to Navajo and Hopi college students.
Best Place to Stare at a Rock
Museum of Northern Arizona, Flagstaff
In Northern Arizona, Winona is a rock — a space rock
that plummeted from the sky and likely scared the day-lights
out of Sinaguan residents of the prehistoric Elden
Pueblo. When it landed, the locals ceremoniously bur-ied
it beneath a stone cist. Most likely, they believed the
rock had special significance, although it’s impossible
to identify exactly what. Today, the Winona meteorite
is on display at the Museum of Northern Arizona, and
museum director Dr. Robert Breunig says it was quite
a find when archaeologists uncovered it in 1928. “A
meteorite that was buried in such a special way isn’t
something you discover every day,” he says. Information:
928-774-5213 or www.musnaz.org.
Best Place to Climb the Ladder in Yavapai County
Groom Creek Loop Trail, Prescott
The Spruce Mountain Lookout Tower is your reward for having climbed 1,300 feet along the Groom Creek Loop
Trail. The tower, which dates to 1936, is open from May to October, whenever a ranger’s around to man it. When
open, it’s almost mandatory that you climb its ladder. You might run into Space, the tower’s watchdog, and, accord-ing
to Arizona Highways contributor Maryal Miller, “by climbing the ladder, you’ll fully experience the crisp air, the
vacant whisper of the wind sifting through the open windows, and the ethereal views of hilly Prescott Valley,
Mingus and Granite mountains, and the San Francisco Peaks to the north.” Plus, it’s a great place to take a breather
before you make your 1,300-foot descent. Information: 928-443-8000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott.
B E S T O F
H I S T O R Y & C U L T U R E
Best Way to Witness Strokes of Genius
Celebration of Art, Grand Canyon National Park
Now in its second year, the Grand Canyon Celebration of Art pairs one of the world’s most beautiful places with some of the world’s finest
painters. The artists gather at the Canyon’s South Rim for a paint-off, of sorts, working en plein air. Think Bruce Aiken, Curt Walters and
Merrill Mahaffey in a battle of the brushes. This year’s event takes place September 11-18, and proceeds benefit the Grand Canyon Associa-tion.
Information: 928-863-3877 or www.grandcanyon.org/celebration.asp.
Best Bet for Loafing Around
Piki bread at the Heard Museum, Phoenix
During the Heard Museum’s Indian Fair & Market each spring, visitors can taste traditional Hopi
piki bread. Made from blue cornmeal mixed with water and the ashes of native bushes or juniper,
the bread — a nearly translucent sheet that’s often rolled loosely into a scroll-like loaf — is baked
on a flat stone coated in watermelon seed, sunflower or squash seed oil. Traditionally, the bread
is prepared by women during various phases of a romantic relationship, then eaten by the happy
couple on their wedding day. Visitors, however, can enjoy it without any commitment. Information:
602-252-8848 or www.heard.org/events.
Best Thing About Congress
Fox Theatre, Tucson
On April 11, 1930, the Fox Theatre opened on West Congress Street in Tucson. Consider it the party of
the decade. The street was shut down and waxed for dancing, live bands played, trolleys carted revelers
all over downtown, and roughly 3,000 people enjoyed a MovieTone short titled Chasing Rainbows, as well
as a Mickey Mouse cartoon. It was the start of a 40-year run as Tucson’s major entertainment center.
After several renovations and remodels, the theater faced a period of decline and abandonment, but
thanks to the efforts of former patrons and culture buffs, the grand venue — which holds a spot on the
National Register of Historic Places — has been restored and now hosts acts from around the globe.
Information: 520-547-3040 or www.foxtucsontheatre.org.
WILLIAM S. BROOKINS
paints en plein air at
the Grand Canyon.
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Best Poolside View in the Great Outdoors
Romero Pools, Oro Valley
You won’t find cabana boys or fruity drinks at Romero Pools, but you
will find cool, natural pools amid beautiful Sonoran Desert scenery.
Tucked away within Catalina State Park, the pools can be accessed
via the Romero Canyon Trail, a 7.2-mile trek through riparian can-yons,
creosote, ocotillos and saguaros. Who needs cabana boys when
the scenery is this stunning? By the way, before you pack up and go,
pick up the phone. Like many state parks in Arizona, this one could
fall victim to legislative budget cuts. Information: 520-628-5798 or www.
Best Opportunity to Be Blown Away
Wupatki National Monument, near Flagstaff
There’s a lot to see at Wupatki National Monument, including the
amazing Moenkopi sandstone homes of the ancient Sinaguan and
Puebloan people. But there are also some pretty interesting natu-ral
wonders at the monument, including an unlikely and unusual
blowhole. Located near the amphitheater, the hole is an opening in
the Kaibab limestone that “breathes,” thanks to air moving through
interconnected underground cavities. It’s weird. And cool. Information:
928-679-2365 or www.nps.gov/wupa.
Best Place to Go Where Seldom
Is Heard a Discouraging Word
DeMotte Campground, North Rim, Grand Canyon
At DeMotte Campground, near the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, the
deer play and the skies are not cloudy all day. There are also miles of
hiking trails, beautiful meadows and, of course, the North Rim itself,
which yawns just 7 miles south of the site. This is a place to revel in
nature, sleep under the stars and get elevated — the campground rests
around 8,500 feet above sea level. It’s hard to hear a discouraging word
up that high. Information: www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai.
Best Opportunity to Rub Elbows
With Elephant Feet
Just east of the town of Red Lake on the Navajo Nation, you might
cast a glance out your window to the north side of U.S. Route 160 and
do a double take, shocked to find two bodiless pachyderm pieds. But
don’t be alarmed and think you’re in The Twilight Zone. They’re really
just sandstone pillars, shaped and sanded over time by the elements
to form elephant feet. There’s no formal visitors center at the site, but
you will find Navajo merchants selling handmade jewelry and other
crafts. Information: www.explorenavajo.com.
Best Place to Catch a Glimpse of a
Critter You Won’t Find in Florida
Bass Canyon, Muleshoe Ranch, near Willcox
Seven permanently flowing streams create an impressive watershed
at Muleshoe Ranch, and thanks to The Nature Conservancy, the
Bureau of Land Management and the Coronado National Forest,
the area and its abundant wildlife are well-protected. That includes
coatimundi, funny little
raccoon-like critters that
populate the canyons of
desert mountain forests,
including Bass Canyon.
You’ll hear the social
creatures chattering in
trees and foraging for
manzanita berries, and
don’t be surprised if you
find them watching you
— they’re a little nosy.
B E S T O F
N A T U R E
Best Place to Fall Under the Spell of a Hoodoo
Coal Mine Canyon, near Tuba City
Coal Mine Canyon looks like the bottom of the ocean. That’s because a long,
long, long, long, long time ago, it was very likely covered in water. Now it’s
home to hundreds of hoodoos, funky-looking rock formations that rise from
the canyon floor to varying heights. They’re striated — the layer of black at
the bottom comes from the canyon’s name-inspiring coal — and perhaps
even haunted. One legend says that the ghost of a Navajo woman wanders
the canyon in search of her husband and baby, who fell to their deaths there.
Spooky. Information: 928-679-2303 or www.navajonationparks.org.
Best Example of “Anything a
Greenhouse Can Do, Mother
Nature Can Do Better”
Arizona’s native orchids
Arizona is its own hothouse — literally and fig-uratively.
At least 10 varieties of orchids grow in
the Arizona wilderness. You’ll find fairy slipper
orchids in the shade of the White Mountains, bog
orchids in the high elevations of the Lukachukai
and Pinaleño mountains, coral root orchids in the
pine and spruce forests of the Santa Catalinas, and
adder’s mouth orchids in the Chiricahuas. Now
that’s some real flower power. Information: www.
RONALD A. COLEMAN
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
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Best Place to Flip a Disc
McPherson Park, Flagstaff
If you’re not into putting tiny white balls into tiny terres-trial
holes, try disc golf and launch Frisbees into airborne
baskets instead. It’s hip, it has its own professional orga-nization
— the PDGA or Professional Disc Golf Associa-tion
— and it’s pretty popular in Flagstaff. Work on your
game at the city’s McPherson Park, where moderate terrain
and amazing views of the San Francisco Peaks make for
a seriously sweet setting. Information: 928-774-5281 or www.
Best Way to Have a G’day, Mate
Australian Desert, Boyce Thompson Arboretum
State Park, Superior
There’s a lot to see at Boyce Thompson Arboretum, from
herbs and legumes to cactuses and a children’s garden. But
if you want to get a feel for being Down Under without the
B E S T O F
F A M I L Y G E T A W A Y S Best Place to Think Pink
Pink Jeep Tours, Sedona
If you haven’t seen them, chances are you’ve heard of them — the famous pink jeeps that cart Sedona visitors over and around
the area’s even more famous red rocks. This year, Pink Jeep Tours celebrates its 50th anniversary. It’s an impressive milestone,
and to celebrate, the company is offering three tours of the Sedona area — “Broken Arrow,” “Ancient Ruins” and “Diamondback
Gulch.” One even descends the “road of no return.” Buckle your seatbelt and hit the road. When it comes to adventure, pink’s
the word. Information: 800-873-3662 or www.pinkjeep.com.
Best Reason to Head Out and Drive In
Apache Drive-In Theatre, Globe
The only operational single-screen drive-in theater in Arizona, the Apache
is a throwback to the movie-going days of yore. It has a 160-car capacity, and
film sound comes via AM radio. The best part? The Apache only charges
$15 per vehicle. So, pile your buddies into your VW bug, head to Globe and
enjoy the show. Information: 928-425-4511 or http://apache.holliscinemas.com.
Best Way to See Lemmon Trees
Mount Lemmon Skyride, near Tucson
It snows in Tucson. Really, it does. That’s why
Mount Lemmon Ski Valley exists, and its runs are
open from mid-December to early April. When the
snow melts, the chairlift sheds its wintry veil and
operates as a scenic skyride, carting visitors to a
forested summit of 9,157 feet. Way up there, the air
is clear, and views of the Santa Catalinas, the San
Pedro Valley, the Reef of Rocks and the city of Tuc-son
loom large. It’s heavenly. Information: 520-576-1400
Best Place to See a Dog and No-Pony Show
Prairie Dog Compound, Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson
Prairie dogs are Mother Nature’s jesters. They dance and dart and roll
around like furry little jumping beans, and visitors to the Arizona-Sonora
Desert Museum can get front-row seats for the antics. There, black-tailed
prairie dogs roam around the Desert Grassland exhibit, free to explore
and burrow to their little hearts’ content, while gleeful guests can belly up
to the exhibit’s clear glass walls to watch. Information: 520-883-2702 or www.
JEAN M. DAVIES
ultralong flight, visit the Australian Desert area. There, you’ll be surrounded by
the plants that call Australia home, including trees like “Mr. Big,” a massive red
gum eucalyptus. The big man on campus was planted in 1926 and is now more
than 140 feet tall. He also holds a place on the registry of big trees as the largest
individual tree of this species in the United States. (See related story, page 30.)
Information: 520-689-2811 or www.azstateparks.com/parks/both.
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Out Admittedly, the most impressive tree in North America — maybe
the world — is the General Sherman. Nothing compares to the
giant sequoia in California’s Sierra Nevada. It’s amazing, but so
are some of the cottonwoods, sycamores, ponderosas and juni-pers
in Arizona. In this month’s portfolio, we showcase a sizable
collection of the state’s mightiest trees.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 31
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 33
One of Arizona’s champion trees,
a Fremont cottonwood near
Patagonia, has a circumference of
504 inches and stands 92 feet
tall. It’s thought to be the world’s
largest Fremont cottonwood tree.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVE BLY
Crimson cardinal flowers and
maidenhair ferns grow among the
massive roots of a cottonwood
tree in Fossil Springs Wilderness.
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICK BEREZENKO
The Fremont cottonwood
tree that stands outside San Pedro
House near Sierra Vista is more
than 100 years old.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVE BLY
To order a print of this photograph, call 866-962-1191 or visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com.
34 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 35
Located in the Apache-Sitgreaves
National Forests, this enormous
alligator juniper tree’s deep
bark fissures illustrate how the
species was named.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JACK DYKINGA
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Although the trunks of these aspens don’t look immense,
consider the fact that all of these trees sprouted from
a single gigantic root system that is hidden underground.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM BEAN
Ponderosa pine trees reach an average height of
100 to 160 feet and can live 400 to 500 years. Arizona’s
Mogollon Rim is home to the largest contiguous
stand of ponderosa pines in the world.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM BEAN
To order a print of this photograph, call 866-962-1191 or visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com.
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• ..... . ....4.
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Known as “Mr. Big,” this eucalyptus tree
thrives at Boyce Thompson Arboretum State
Park near Superior. From mid-March
through late September, turkey vultures
roost in the park’s eucalyptus grove.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF KIDA
Based on tree-ring samples, this giant
sycamore tree, which resides at
The Nature Conservancy in Ramsey
Canyon, dates to 1760.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVE BLY
A Utah juniper spreads out at Trailview
Overlook on the Grand Canyon’s South Rim.
PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM BEAN
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Schools Thomas Wolfe said you can’t go home again, but
school’s a different subject, particularly as it relates to
elementary, junior high and high schools from the early
20th century. Across the United States, these classic old
buildings are being repurposed into art spaces and other
public venues. It’s even happening here in Arizona.
By Jackie Dishner
Photos by Richard Maack
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The Old Jerome
n the first Saturday of the month,
when you exit the Art Walk trol-ley
in front of what is known as
the old Jerome High School on
State Route 89A, you’ll first see the Ander-son-
Mandette Gallery — 20,000 square
feet of gallery, studio and office space. No
longer packed with hurried high school
students trying to get to class on time, the
wide hallways are now filled with paintings,
sculptures, self-portraits and prints. Robin
Anderson and his wife, Margo Mandette,
arrived in the early ’80s, long after the school
had closed, to work there.
They lease all that space from the old min-ing
company, now known as United Verde
Exploration, which had once owned the
whole town. Formerly the Old Mingus Art
Center, this building was completed in 1923
as part of what was then the Jerome High
School. Prior to that, the building served as
the town hospital, which may explain why
Mandette believes she’s seen the ghost of a
young boy in the stairwells. “Perhaps he died
here,” she says.
When they first arrived, she says the build-ing
looked like it was being used as the city
dump. The whole complex — all four build-ings
— had sat empty for more than 10 years.
Only a jeweler and a sculptor worked there.
Garbage littered the floors. But after tour-ing
the building, the couple decided it was
solid enough to fix. They cleaned, disinfected
and painted the interior. They also hung new
doors before moving in. This didn’t please the
artists who were already there. Unhappy that
the new guys had stolen the ambience, they
moved out. That left Anderson and Mandette
with the entire building all to themselves. It’s
been that way ever since.
But they’re not the only artists on cam-pus.
Tour the entire complex of working art-ist
studios — no living quarters there — to
see interesting work of all kinds: original
beaded jewelry, landscape photography, oil
paintings and mixed-media in Building A;
installation art and a framer in the former
shop building; clothing, textiles and an artist
who paints the Grand Canyon in Building
B. You’ll also meet a fine-art framer, an eco-minded
furniture designer and a recording
artist who plays exotic instruments. More
than 14 artists work there, but not all of them
show their work. The on-site cobbler keeps
Because the building is down the hill from
Jerome proper, you’ll either take the trolley,
which runs only during Art Walk events, or
drive your car to get there. So it’s not uncom-mon
for tourists to bypass the school alto-gether,
creating both a benefit and a bane
for the artists.
Kim Hoshal, a landscape photographer,
and her recording artist husband, William,
set up shop there less than 2 years ago. They
found out about the open space from Mark
Hemleben, who’s been painting there for 14
They like it because they pay less than 50
cents per square foot.
“You’re just attracted to the history of the
building. This place was a flophouse before it
became an artists’ space,” says Hoshal, who
helps maintain the plants in the community
atrium at the top of the stairs.
Vicki Day, a textile artist who shares space
with her brother Derryl Day, the Grand Can-yon
painter, and a milliner named Sandy
Brown, prefers being farther from the crowds.
“It’s very quiet here, and the views of the
hills and Sedona out my window inspire
me. We also draw on the inspiration of each
other,” she says.
Joel Boswell, a former general contrac-tor
turned oil painter who just moved into
Building A last July, sums it up with this:
“There aren’t many venues for creating in a
space with other artists.”
For more information: www.jeromechamber.com/
rive along State Route 80
through Mule Pass Tunnel, and
you’ll soon see Bisbee’s historic
district on your left. Postpone
the usual stops: Main Street, the Copper
Queen Hotel, Brewery Gulch. Instead,
look for the large, yellowing hidden gem
around the corner — the historic Central
School (circa 1905) on Howell Avenue. In
1985, 10 years after it had been abandoned,
the transformation began at what is now a
co-op called the Central School Project, a
nonprofit arts and cultural organization.
Its mission: to preserve and adapt the
historic school as a cultural center, to fos-ter
appreciation for the arts, and to provide
affordable creative space for working artists.
Twenty-five years later, the public is regu-larly
invited to staged productions, poetry
readings and other arts events. A public
radio station broadcasts from the main floor.
And space is available for less than 20 cents
a square foot.
Twenty artists, led by executive director
Melissa Holden, co-own and work on-site.
Since the average space is 750 square feet,
rent is only $150. This bargain comes with
a requirement that the artists help organize
If you go, you’ll see this ragamuffin of a
building needs work. The foundation is
cracked. The windows need replacing. The
exterior is fading. A fundraising campaign
has 4 years to raise the $500,000 needed to
do the work. Regardless, the artists don’t
seem to mind that there are only two bath-rooms
in the whole building. Nor do they
mind the whirring sounds of the old boiler
in the background.
“It’s the original, and it keeps the place
warm,” says Holden, who gladly shows off
the 80-seat auditorium. Stacks of cush-ions
— in all colors and fabrics — at the
entrance warn you to grab one for what-ever
two-hour journey awaits you on the
If you peek into Sam Woolcott’s space,
you’ll see she’s kept intact the chalkboards
from the building’s earlier days. She also
teaches art in her studio once a week.
Woolcott, who is self-taught, co-owns a
gallery in town called Sam-Poe on Main
Street. That’s where you’ll find samples of
her step paintings. She’s painted all nine
sets of the famous Bisbee steps. She also
paints on recycled materials, such as wood
pieces and sandpaper. Step inside the studio
and she’ll let you give it a try.
Last year, the school began a visiting artist
program, inviting artists from all over the
country to use the public studio for 3 weeks
at a time. Artists who accept work in the stu-dio
also offer an art talk and end their visit
with an exhibition.
“We do all the marketing,” Holden says,
“because we want people to know we’re here.”
For more information: www.centralschoolproject.org.
The Curley School
he most exciting of these con-verted
schools might be the
least expected of them all —
the Curley School Project in Ajo.
The Spanish Revival campus, built in 1919 to
PRECEDING PANEL AND OPPOSITE PAGE: Once teeming with teen-agers,
the old Jerome High School is home to Anderson-
Mandette Gallery, and serves as studio space for 14 artists.
ABOVE AND LEFT: Bisbee’s former historic school is now a non-profit
arts and cultural organization, known as the Central
46 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0
serve the copper miners’ children, closed 7
years after the open-pit mine shut down in
1985. A rebirth occurred in 2007, when the
copper-framed entrance opened to a small
group of artists looking for an inexpensive
place to live and work.
They’d seen the ads on Craigslist: “Live-work
studios for as little as $375 a month.”
Mari Kaestle, who now teaches the free
yoga class in the school’s indoor-outdoor audi-torium,
was one of the artists who applied.
Dressed in bluejean shorts and a tank top, red
rubber flip-flops on her feet, and a red ban-dana
tied around her head, she carries shears
in her hands as she crops off a green branch
on the paloverde tree in the courtyard. At the
Curley School, artists can volunteer time in
the garden for a decrease in rent.
The former puppeteer worked in New
York and Los Angeles before arriving in Ajo
via Tucson. The 64-year-old says she pre-fers
the quiet life, creating tarot dolls in her
newly remodeled three-bedroom apartment.
As a little girl, Kaestle says, her dreams
were filled with the letter A.
“It was a long time getting here, but I
made it,” she says, pointing behind her at Ajo
Mountain, a big white A painted on its side.
“Ajo is the perfect place to manifest things,”
she says. “If you need something, it shows up.”
Previously known mostly for two things
— Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument
and as a gas stop for RVers and weekenders
crossing the border en route to some beach
bumming in Rocky Point, Mexico — Ajo is
now an emerging artists’ colony.
You have to look hard to find the school.
Heading south on State Route 85, look to
your right as you round the curve at the town
plaza. The school’s arches front a coffeehouse
and library at the old train depot facing the
open pit mine. The big beige building in front
of A Mountain sits two blocks from the high-way,
behind a white Catholic church on one
side, a Protestant church on the other. Sur-rounded
by rundown houses and tiny bun-galows,
the school’s stucco siding, red-tile
roof and domed bell tower suggest it was the
town’s center of activity at one time.
But Ajo is not new to artists. They’ve been
coming to the “edge of the universe” since
after the mine closed because this part of
the Sonoran Desert offers exactly what they
need — color, light and a peaceful environ-ment.
“I came to visit a friend, stayed for a few
days, and the next thing you know, I bought
a house,” is a frequently told story.
In fact, it was one of those artist trans-plants,
Tracy Taft, who, in 2001, helped form
the nonprofit International Sonoran Desert
Alliance that would raise the nearly $10 mil-lion
it would take to save the then-decaying
Curley School. With grants from more than
a dozen entities, volunteer efforts from the
community, and the creation of sustainable
profit-making projects, the ISDA purchased
12 buildings on more than 7 acres, and the
Taft and staff have turned the space into
30 low-income apartments for working art-ists.
Only three of them are vacant. Gallery
space is open to the public, and the audito-rium
rents for $75 a day.
“We’re in the black,” Taft says, owing
the success to affordable artist housing and
community support. This works both ways,
she explains. The microenterprise center
they’ve developed caters to campus artists in
need of prints, posters or microloans, and the
public is welcome to use the facility housed
in the school’s former cafeteria. A free GED
program includes lessons on how to create
and sell mosaic-tile art. It’s taught to the
general public, too. Even the school’s organic
vegetable garden was created for public use.
And the hidden gem — an elevator — is the
only one in town.
“Kids come in to ride it all the time,” Taft
Future plans for this award-winning proj-ect
call for a retreat center to open in the next
year or two, more pomegranate trees than
they could possibly harvest for the preserves
they want to sell, and high expectations to
divert that Mexico-bound traffic.
For more information: www.curleyschool.com.
A PRIMER ON OTHER
• Bullion Plaza Cultural Center & Museum
1000 Plaza Avenue, Miami
This Classical Revival building once served only the Hispanic and
Native American populations in the copper mining town of Miami. The
former school now serves the entire public as a museum, showcasing
the mining region’s cultural diversity and influence, and also houses a
local couple’s ceramic art. Information: www.globemiamichamber.com.
• Clemenceau Public School
1 N. Willard Street, Cottonwood
This was the former school for the miners’ children who lived in the company town
called Clemenceau, where James Douglas built his smelter. The town shut down
with the mine and became part of Cottonwood. Illustrating Verde Valley history, the
museum that occupies the old school houses local artifacts and mining town displays.
The highlight is the model-train display. Information: www.clemenceaumuseum.org.
• Graham County Historical Society Museum
3430 W. Main Street, Thatcher
This museum, which is located in the old Thatcher Public
School, houses a large assortment of antiques and collectibles
donated by the local residents: a working player piano, farming
and ranching equipment, vintage clothing, Native American
pottery and a Valley National Bank display. Information: www.
• Monroe School
215 N. 7th Street, Phoenix
Another Classical Revival building erected in the early 1900s, this former elemen-tary
school has morphed into the Children’s Museum of Phoenix. It offers regular
arts-related classes, workshops and programming, among many other exhibits and
displays. Information: www.childrensmuseumofphoenix.org.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Clemenceau Museum exterior, Cottonwood; Clemenceau Museum
interior; Bullion Plaza Cultural Center, Miami; Graham County Historical Society, Thatcher;
former Monroe School, now the Children’s Museum of Phoenix.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 49
DEAL How to
Local artwork isn’t hard to find. Throughout Arizona, Native Americans can be
found selling their jewelry, paintings and pottery at roadside stands, trading
posts, powwows, pueblos and galleries. It’s accessible, which might be why the
general public perceives Indian art like Mexican art, where bartering is a part
of the equation. In the Southwest, that’s not the case. Here, haggling can be
either a time-honored tradition or a minefield of cultural insensitivity.
By Suzanne Wright P ' hotographs by Jeff Kida
he bus kicks up puffs of red dust before
disgorging its passengers from New
York, Ohio, Florida and Oregon onto
the reservation ground. Mostly middle-aged
and white, they’re tentative and
curious, plucking handcrafted pieces
from wooden tables, gesturing excitedly
and comparing items. There’s a buzz of discovery and pend-ing
acquisition among the would-be buyers. Several tourists
offer words of appreciation to the artist, a young woman who
stands silently behind the table, ready to sell her creations.
Then one man simultaneously brandishes an item and reaches
for his wallet before declaring in a too-loud voice: “I’ll give you
$40 for this.” There’s an uncomfortable silence. The vendor
simply ignores the man, making change for others who have
paid full price. I wince as this scene unfolds. Is my reaction
When we travel, many of us want to buy a memento, some-thing
unique and handmade, a touchstone of our experience
that we can proudly show off to friends and family. But often
in our enthusiasm to procure such treasures, we unwittingly
trample on unspoken customs and cause unintended grief.
Haggling can be a time-honored tradition or a minefield of
cultural insensitivity. Can dickering ever be a win-win? Do
the rules change when you’re dealing directly with the artist
versus a gallery? Is it possible to bargain with respect?
“This can become quite a sensitive issue,” says Wendy
Weston, director of American Indian relations at the Heard
Museum in Phoenix. “I think the most important point to
remember is to treat these people with the same respect you’d
treat a small-business owner. I personally don’t practice bar-gaining
with artists, nor would I go to the jewelry counter
in a large department store and expect to
bargain. Native entrepreneurs operate these
cottage industries and support families
with their sales. I lived life as an artist for
some time, and I priced my wares reason-ably.
Because of this, whenever someone
attempted to bargain with me, I wouldn’t participate.”
According to the University of Arizona’s Economic Devel-opment
Research Program, Arizona is home to more than
250,000 Native Americans on 23 reservations representing
21 tribes — more than any other state. Potential buyers will
encounter Native American crafts at roadside stands, state
fairs, trading posts, powwows, pueblos, reservations and gal-leries.
There are also multiple classes of artists. They run the
gamut from top-of-the-line artisans who produce one-of-a-
Annual Indian Fair &
Market offers Indian
artists a venue to sell
their work, such as
Santa Clara pottery.
50 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 51
kind collectibles worth thousands of dollars to mass-produced pieces
that might include components from Asia or the local Kmart. And,
bargaining is not as culturally embraced among all Native Americans
— there are differing attitudes among various tribes.
Emerson Quannie, a Hopi and owner of Southwest Native Ameri-can
Promotions, promotes art shows in the Southwest and personally
knows more than 1,800 traditional and contemporary artists.
“In some ways, the general public has perceived Indian art like
Mexican art, where they barter all the time,” he says. “True artists
won’t barter, and you won’t see very many good artists selling out of
their homes. I tell them to set a price and stick with it. You don’t go to
the grocery store or department store and barter.”
He acknowledges that a lot of artists face limitations — they don’t
have the skills to market their artwork or the means for a booth at a
show or a car to get to a gallery — and may be more apt to bargain.
Quannie concedes that purchasing art can be awkward if you don’t
know the rules of engagement.
“Start by showing interest, talking with the artist
and asking questions,” he says.
Tina Peshlakai is an artist’s representative who
helps potters, jewelers, silversmiths, beadworkers, doll
makers, basket makers, weavers and moccasin makers
to market their works. She’s aware of the cultural dif-ferences
between artist and patron, and knows how
that can contribute to misunderstandings during a
transaction. Her advice echoes that of Quannie.
“The first impression of how someone looks at the
art is everything, in terms of how the negotiation will
unfold,” she says. “When [the buyer] has a certain
approach — appreciating the artwork, asking questions about who
made it, seeing the value the artist put into it, giving the salesperson
the idea that they would really like to own it — that encourages us to
share what the piece is all about. In the spirit of educating, we explain
the symbols, which are part of the work’s appeal, tradition and art-istry.
I find a lot of the Western world has forgotten about storytelling,
and we share that with the buyer.”
In Peshlakai’s experience, about 50 percent of Americans try to
negotiate, while the other half buy the item at the quoted price. Some
customers recognize something as “worth every penny,” while others
lack a point of reference for pricing, undervaluing how time-consum-ing
beadwork or quilting can be.
“The best buyers are other artists,” she says. “Those with the deep-est
pockets often have the least understanding.”
What about art — especially jewelry — that is unmarked? Does it
have a fixed price or is it fair game for bargaining? Peshlakai says that
jewelry has a “high turnover rate,” and many
pieces are priced with a felt-tipped marker.
With handling, repolishing and buffing, the
price often rubs off, but artisans “know the
cost off the tops of their heads.”
So is bartering ever acceptable?
Yes, within reason, she says.
“I’d like to be approached by someone who
says, ‘I love this piece and would like to take it
home. Can you give me a 10 percent discount
for cash?’ Or, if I’ve carried an item for two or three years, I’ll talk
business. But anything beyond 25 percent off the marked price is not
reasonable. The artist will feel insulted.”
Bruce McGee, director of retail sales for the Heard Museum and
bookstore, believes it hurts the integrity of artists when you start
bargaining from established prices. He counsels would-be buyers to
understand the artist, the price structure and short-term gains versus
long-term consequences before they bargain.
“An artist has worked long and hard on a piece, so [if you bargain],
you undercut his or her efforts,” he says. “And you’ve devalued the
pieces of previous buyers. A lot of people do so out of greed. They want
to say, ‘I bought it at this price.’ It’s nothing to brag about when you
take away an artist’s established income.”
But integrity is a two-way street between artist and patron.
McGee says a buyer should do his or her homework — “education
is everything” — and ensure the artist’s work hasn’t slipped in quality,
that it is, indeed, worth the asking price.
Another consideration in bargaining is whether your purchase
is a one-time transaction or one of several as an avid collector of a
“Down the road, the artist won’t give you their best piece if you’ve
haggled,” McGee says. “They’ll give you something they want to get rid
of. At the Heard, we maintain relationships with the artists and their
families. All successful galleries and collectors operate the same way.”
Peshlakai agrees that both artist and patron benefit from a suc-cessful
“It’s ultimately about making a decent living. I think what we do
in the Southwest as Native Americans is pretty unique.”
ABOVE: Native American flutist Travis Terry demon-strates
his hand-carved flutes in Canyon de Chelly.
LEFT: Effie Yazzie carries on the Navajo beadwork
tradition by showcasing her turquoise and bead
jewelry, which she creates at her Monument Valley
OPPOSITE PAGE: Evalena Henry, of the San Carlos
Apache Tribe, creates a hand-woven basket.
' Do your research. It pays — both psychologically and
economically — to understand the fair market value of
the artwork you’re interested in. Consult guidebooks,
tourism offices, the Internet, museums and libraries to
become a knowledgeable buyer.
‘ Establish rapport. Express curiosity, maintain a posi-tive
attitude and ask thoughtful questions. The seller
will appreciate genuine interest.
‘ Barter only when you’re serious. In order to avoid
bruised feelings, only bargain if you’re sincere about
purchasing the piece. Otherwise, don’t waste your time
or the merchant’s.
‘ Exercise restraint. Don’t offer 10 percent of a stated
price; this will insult the seller. Make polite inquiries
about possible cash or volume discounts, then let the
seller respond. Be patient and persistent but low-key.
‘ Consider the source. Negotiating with an affluent gal-lery
owner is different than haggling with an artist who
is barely making ends meet. Small savings to buyers are
often consequential to sellers.
‘ Enlist your travel guide. If you’re traveling with a local
guide who understands the culture, ask him or her to
help you reach a fair price.
‘ Trust your gut. If you love something and can afford
it, buy it and avoid the gut-wrenching agony of “the one
that got away.”
Bartering requires balance. It’s the art
of playing fair without getting scammed.
It’s not easy, but there are a few tips
that’ll help you through the process.
“The first impression of
how someone looks
at the art is everything,
in terms of how the
negotiation will unfold.”
52 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 53
there’s a thought that
crosses the minds of almost
every first-time visitor to the
Grand Canyon: Imagine being the
explorer who discovered this natural
wonder. One minute you’re riding a
horse across the high plains, and then
suddenly ...WHOA! How incredible it
must have been to stand alone on the
rim, with no previous knowledge of
the Canyon’s existence.
Today, with 5 million
people a year descending on
the national park, that kind of
solitude is hard to find. It’s not
impossible, though. You just
have to know where to go, and
that’s where this month’s scenic
drive comes in.
Naturally, if you’re willing
to hoof it, there are hundreds,
even thousands, of places where
you can find some peace and
quiet in the Grand Canyon, but
to find one that’s reachable by
car is a little more challenging.
Timp Point is one of the few.
It’s isolated, to be sure, and it’s
also scenic — the panoramas
from the point are unlike any
you’ve ever seen of the Canyon.
Although Timp Point is the
payoff, the drive out there is
pretty spectacular too.
The route begins at Jacob
Lake, which, at an elevation of
7,920 feet, is a cool and idyllic
place to pitch a tent or rent a
room. Especially in August. It’s
also the home of the Kaibab
Plateau Visitors Center. You’ll
want to stop in, stock up on
maps and get the lay of the
From there, follow State
Route 67 — one of the most
scenic drives in Arizona —
south for 27.5 miles through
postcard landscapes of pon-derosa
pines, aspens, spruce
and broad green meadows to
Forest Road 22. Turn right onto
FR 22 and continue for 10.5
miles to Forest Road 206. Turn
left onto FR 206 and continue
south for 3.5 miles to Forest
Road 214. There, you can either
make a side trip out to Paris-sawampitts
Point, from which
you can see Tapeats Amphi-theater
and Fishtail Mesa, or
continue south toward Timp
Point. It’s a 16-mile round-trip
detour to Parissawampitts, but
it’s well worth the effort. Either
way, from the junction of FR
206 and FR 214, continue south
on FR 206 for a little more than
a mile to Forest Road 271.
The countryside along all of
these easy-to-follow dirt roads
is classic Kaibab National For-est:
lush evergreens, aspens,
summer grasses and wildflow-ers.
The fauna is impressive,
too. In addition to deer and tur-keys
and mountain lions, keep
your eyes peeled for Kaibab
squirrels, which are shy, dark
animals with tufted ears and
bushy white tails.
Moving along, turn right
onto FR 271 and drive for about
5 miles to a junction with For-est
Road 271A, which leads
to North Timp Point, another
worthy diversion that offers
views (with binoculars) of
Thunder River, a large spring
that gushes from an opening in
the north wall of Tapeats Can-yon.
To get to Timp Point, stay
left on FR 271 and continue for
another 3 miles. This is the end
of the road — the quiet place
with the booming payoff.
Admittedly, there are more
famous viewpoints along the
Canyon’s various rims — Cape
Final, Bright Angel Point, Yaki
Point — but Timp Point ranks
right up there. Along with the
270-degree panoramas of the
Seventh Natural Wonder, you’ll
also see Steamboat Mountain
rising up from the Canyon
floor. What you won’t see are
people, which makes Timp
Point an ideal place to imagine
what it was like to discover
the Grand Canyon. Enjoy the
views, and plan on staying
awhile. There’s nothing like
standing alone on an isolated
RIGHT AND OPPO-SITE
Point and North
Timp Point offer
some of the most
Timp Point, North
Timp Point, Paris-sawampitts
... they’re not as
well known as
some of the other
BY ROBERT STIEVE
Note: Mileages are approximate.
LENGTH: 73 miles one way (from Jacob Lake to Timp Point,
including side trips to Parissawampitts Point and North Timp
DIRECTIONS: From Jacob Lake, drive south on State Route 67 for
27.5 miles to Forest Road 22 (some maps identify this as Forest
Road 422 or West Side Road). Turn right (west) onto FR 22 and
continue 10.5 miles to a Y-junction with Forest Road 206. Turn
left (south) onto FR 206 and continue south for 3.5 miles to
Forest Road 214. There you can either detour for 8 miles (one
way) on FR 214 to Parissawampitts Point or continue south on
FR 206 for 1.5 miles to Forest Road 271. Go west on FR 271 for 5
miles to Forest Road 271A. There you can either detour 3 miles
(one way) on FR 271A to North Timp Point or continue west on
FR 271 for 3 miles to Timp Point.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Unless rain or snow is present, this route
is accessible to all vehicles.
WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be aware of
weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of water. Don’t travel
alone and let someone know where you are going and when you
plan to return.
INFORMATION: Kaibab Plateau Visitors Center, 928-643-7298 or
Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial 511 to
on road closures, construction,
O N L I N E For more drives in Arizona, visit our “Scenic Drives Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
READING: For more
scenic drives, pick
up a copy of our
book, The Back
Roads. Now in its
fifth edition, the
features 40 of the
state’s most scenic
drives. To order
a copy, call 800-
543-5432 or visit
G R A N D C A N Y O N
N A T I O N A L P A R K
West Side Road
S T A R T H E R E Jacob Lake
To North Rim
K A I B A B
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
MOREY K. MILBRADT
54 au g u s t 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 55
month OF THE
ponderosa pines can get old. Not in the figurative
sense of, “Eh, if I see one more ponderosa, I’m going
to scream,” but literally old. Some can live up to 500 years.
Compared to bristlecone pines, that’s nothing, but in
Northern Arizona, it’s impressive. That’s why old-growth
forests like the one surrounding the Mormon Lake Trail
are so special.
Like all old and well-established forests, this one is
made up of big trees, snags (large, standing dead trees),
downed logs, clumps of younger trees, seedlings and
small clearings. The snags in particular are vital to the
survival of the forest because they provide habitat for
birds and other small creatures, which then become food
for the resident hawks, eagles, bears, coyotes and foxes.
It’s all part of a sophisticated ecosystem, and you’ll get a
firsthand look on this hike.
The quiet trail begins at the rear of the group-camp
area at Dairy Springs Campground. For the first few min-utes,
the trail overlaps a self-guided nature trail in the
campground. Before long, though, you’ll come to a gate,
beyond which is an intersection with the Arizona Trail.
In case you’re wondering, it’s 28.4 miles from this point
to Flagstaff, and the Arizona Trail as a whole is 819 miles
from Utah to Mexico. But you’re not taking the Arizona
Trail. Not now, any-way.
After about 15 or
20 minutes, the forest
of mixed conifers and
oaks opens up briefly,
offering your first
glimpse of Mormon
Lake, as well as the
grassy flats and for-est-
covered hills that
surround it. Depend-ing
on the time of
year, and what the
weather’s been like,
the lake may or may
not have water in it.
Either way, you’ll get
your bearings. You’ll
also see signs of elk,
which use this trail
to get wherever it
is they’re going. Yet
as you move along
is the abundance
of wildflowers. Ini-tially,
you’ll see a few
up among the trees,
but when you hit the
60-minute mark of
the hike, you’ll come
to a small grassy
meadow that’s often flooded with lupines and more.
Just beyond the meadow, the first aspen appears off to
the right. There are a few others along the way, but this
is primarily a ponderosa forest. By the way, you can tell
the age of a ponderosa by its bark. For the first 120 to 150
years of its life, its bark is blackish. As it gets older, the
bark changes to a yellowish-red color and forms the flat
“plates” you’re familiar with.
The trail stays much the same for the next half-hour,
climbing gradually through the pines and occasional
aspens. Then, after about an hour and a half, the under-brush
thickens with grasses and shrubs. This is your best
bet for seeing an elk. Heed the advice of Elmer Fudd and
you might get lucky.
From there, it’s a quick scamper to a large meadow that
marks the end of the trail. At this point, you can either
turn around and head back or follow Forest Road 648 to
the 8,449-foot summit of Mormon Mountain. If you have
the energy, you might as well go to the top. Among other
things, it’ll give you a little more time to appreciate the
special nature of this old-growth forest.
LENGTH: 6 miles round-trip
ELEVATION: 7,200 to 8,449 feet
DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go south on Forest Highway 3 for
20 miles to the intersection with Forest Road 90. Turn right
(west) onto FR 90 and drive 3.5 miles to the Montezuma Lodge
turnoff. Drive 0.6 miles to the trailhead. All roads are paved
except the last 0.6 miles.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Accessible to all vehicles
DOGS ALLOWED: Yes, on a leash
USGS MAPS: Mormon Lake, Mormon Mountain
INFORMATION: Peaks/Mormon Lake Ranger Districts, 928-526-
0866 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino
• Plan ahead and be prepared.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly and pack
out your trash.
• Leave what you find.
• Respect wildlife and minimize impact.
• Be considerate of others.
vistas of the San
(below), as well
as an up-close
look at local
TRAIL Along with views of
Mormon Lake, this quiet hike
features an old-growth forest
of ponderosa pines and several
meadows that will likely be
awash with wildflowers.
BY ROBERT STIEVE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM BEAN
O N L I N E For more hikes in Arizona, visit our “Hiking Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
C O C O N I N O
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
Lake Mary Road
Mormon Lake Road
T R A I L H E A D
56 a u g u s t 2 0 1 0
Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location featured above and e-mail your answer to
email@example.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix,
AZ 85009. Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a random drawing of qualified
entries. Entries must be postmarked by August 15, 2010. Only the winner will be notified. The correct answer will be posted in our
October issue and online at www.arizonahighways.com beginning September 15.
June 2010 Answer:
our winner, James
Corbett of Columbia,
BY SALLY BENFORD
You could say
that the more
the more they
stay the same.
In this place
meets new, dual
more than 100
serve the same
for its frequent
and, in Greek
its host city’s
name refers to
an idyllic place
went for rest
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