E SC A P E . EX P LOR E . EX P E R I ENCE
THE PHOTO ISSUE FEATURING: OUR 2010 PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS | SPECTACULAR B&Ws FROM THE GOLDWATER
COLLECTION | RARE HOPI PHOTOS | THE LEGENDARY JERRY JACKA | AND THIS FAMOUS COVER
Photograph by Barry Goldwater
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 1
◗ The workday comes to an end for Hoover Dam
Bypass ironworkers as they are transported to the
Nevada bridge deck via a highline catenary system.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMEY STILLINGS
FRONT COVER Titled The Shepherdess, a color version
of a similar Barry Goldwater image graced the cover
of Arizona Highways’ first all-color issue in December
1946. PHOTOGRAPH BY BARRY GOLDWATER
BACK COVER A waterfall flows down sheer red sand-stone
walls in Sedona’s Secret Canyon within the
Red Rock/Secret Mountain Wilderness.
PHOTOGRAPH BY DEREK VON BRIESEN
• POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE
2 EDITOR’S LETTER
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
5 THE JOURNAL
People, places and things from
around the state, including a sit-down
with Jerry Jacka, one of our
all-time favorite photographers, a
classic burger joint in Cottonwood
(leave your cholesterol concerns at
home) and a Madera Canyon B&B
that offers an idyllic dose of R&R.
52 SCENIC DRIVE
Salt Mine Road: Figuratively
speaking, dead ends are rarely ideal.
In this case, you can throw that kind
of thinking out the car window.
54 HIKE OF THE MONTH
Inner Basin Trail: There are other
hikes that’ll lead you to fall color,
but this one just might be the best.
56 WHERE IS THIS?
Visit our website for details on week-end
getaways, hiking, lodging, dining,
photography workshops, slideshows
and more. Also, check out our blog for
regular posts on just about anything
related to travel in Arizona, including
road closures, environmental news,
festivals and other valuable infomation
we couldn’t fit in the magazine.
Like us on Facebook and get a behind-the-
scenes look at Arizona Highways,
along with exclusive photos, trivia
contests, quirky news and more.
GET MORE ONLINE
Prints of some photographs in this
issue are available for purchase. To
view options, visit www.arizona
highwaysprints.com. For more
information, call 866-962-1191.
16 A GOLDWATER
Around the country, Barry Goldwater is best known
for his distinguished career in the U.S. Senate. Here at
home, however, he’s also known for his photography,
which graced the pages of this magazine on many occa-sions.
Recently, Mr. Goldwater’s son Michael asked if
we’d like access to the family archive. “Hell yes,” we
replied, and just like that, Barry Goldwater is back in
EDITED BY JEFF KIDA
30 ALL DRESSED UP
Of all the native peoples of North America, the Hopis
are perhaps the most fascinating. Their nation is home
to the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in North
America, and their ceremonial dress is simply spectacu-lar.
Few photographers ever get a chance to shoot it —
John Running is one of the lucky ones.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN RUNNING
36 BRIDGING THE GAP
For 75 years, crossing the Hoover Dam was the easi-est
way to get from Nevada to Arizona. It was a scenic
bucket-list experience, but it was slow going. This fall,
that dam crossing will be a thing of the past. A new
bridge is going in — an unbelievably impressive new
bridge — and our photographer was on-site to docu-ment
BY JODI CISMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMEY STILLINGS
42 BEST PICTURE
We thought it was tough picking a winner last year.
And then we started looking at this year’s entries. Holy
moly! Hats off to everyone who submitted images in our
second-annual online photography contest. Like the first
time around, we were inundated with a hard drive full of
EDITED BY JEFF KIDA
2 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 3
For photographer Jamey
Stillings, his work is an
excuse — an awesome
excuse — to explore the
world around him with
a focus and concentration he says not many other people possess. “Photography is an
entrée, a way for people to learn something about their histories and backgrounds,” he
says. That philosophy is evident in Bridging the Gap (page 36), his portfolio of the Hoover
Dam Bypass construction project. Although his first love is photographing the high des-ert
around his home in Santa Fe, Stillings has a soft spot for Arizona, where he picnicked
and backpacked with his grandparents as a child. “I learned about all of the desert plants
when I was young, and that knowledge has really stuck with me,” he says. Stillings’ work
also appears in The New York Times.
As a 45-year resident of
Flagstaff, photographer John
Running turned his hobby
into his life’s work. “It was
my avocation and then it
became my vocation,” he
says. “It provides me the
opportunity to be curious
with a purpose.” Running’s
curiosity allowed him a rare
chance to photograph a Hopi
dance group from Hotevilla
when they used his studio on Heritage Square in Flagstaff as a changing and preparation
room (see All Dressed Up, page 30). “It was just luck,” he says. “I happened to be in the
right place at the right time.” Running is a longtime contributor to Arizona Highways.
MICHAEL GOLDWATER SR.
The Goldwater name is iconic in Arizona. First there were the
department stores, and then along came Barry. Although he was
best known for his politics, Barry M. Goldwater was at least as
passionate about his photography, which is collected in The Eyes of
His Soul: The Visual Legacy of Barry M. Goldwater, Master Photogra-pher,
a book published by Goldwater’s son, Michael Goldwater Sr.
(pictured at right getting a trim from brother Barry Jr.). This month,
Michael shares some of those images in A Goldwater Family Album
(page 16). As a founding member of the Goldwater Institute, the
younger Goldwater works daily to share his father’s photographs
with the world. When he’s not doing that, you’ll find him traveling
the state. “I’ve seen all there is to see in this great state,” he says,
“but Monument Valley and Havasu Canyon are my favorite spots.”
one thousand and twenty-five. That’s how many issues of Arizona Highways
we’ve published in our 85-year history. This is No. 1,025. With that many
magazines in the mix, we’ve had an opportunity to feature hundreds of
different subjects on our covers. Everything from John Wayne to Geronimo, wild-flowers
to white-water rafting, and the Grand Canyon to Greer. And the list goes on.
And on and on and on. Although we’ve repeated themes over the years — Sedona,
saguaros, San Xavier — we’ve never repeated a cover photo.
To do something like that, we’d have to have a pretty good
reason. And we do. The first time we ran this photograph was
in December 1946, and it was the centerpiece of a piece of his-tory.
That issue was the first all-color magazine ever published
in the United States. National Geographic wasn’t first. Life wasn’t
first. The Saturday Evening Post wasn’t first. Arizona Highways set
the standard, and it’s something we’re very proud of. We’re also
proud of that cover, which was shot by a young man named
Mr. Goldwater, as most everyone knows, would go on to
become a well-known statesman in Washington, D.C., but his
passion for photography was always as powerful as his love of
politics. He spent most of his lifetime behind a camera, and
along the way he amassed an amazing portfolio, which was featured in a recent book
by Michael Goldwater Sr., the son of the late senator.
One day a few months ago, Michael called me and asked if I’d like access to the col-lection.
It was a rhetorical question, I presume. Of course I wanted access. Not only did
Mr. Goldwater have a long history with the magazine, but we also had our third-annual
Photography Issue coming up, and the senator’s collection of spectacular landscape shots
and equally amazing portrait photography would fit in perfectly. It was an easy deci-sion
to put one of the Goldwater images on the cover, but none of us expected to use The
Shepherdess, the same photo that was used in 1946. It just sort of happened that way.
Photo Editor Jeff Kida and I were poring over
the images with Barb Denney, our art director,
when we came to The Shepherdess. Almost in uni-son,
the three of us blurted out, “That’s the cover.”
There wasn’t any debate. The image, which is
slightly different than the one we ran in 1946, is
as captivating today as it was 64 years ago, and it’s
definitely worth repeating. However, instead of
running it in color, as we did in 1946, we opted for
the ironic twist of running it in black and white.
The Shepherdess is one of many Goldwater photos
in this issue. The rest are featured in A Goldwater
Family Album, a portfolio that wouldn’t have been
possible without that call from the
senator’s son. Thank you, Michael.
While I’m at it, I should also
thank Alexander Graham Bell,
because it was another phone call
that led to our piece on the Hoover
Dam. Around the same time I was
reveling in the Goldwater collec-tion,
photographer Jamey Stillings
called and asked if I’d like to see
his exclusive images of the Hoover
Dam Bypass bridge, which is under
construction and expected to open
this fall. Coincidentally, I’d just been
at the site a few weeks earlier, and
was mesmerized by the magnitude of the $240
million bridge. While I was there, I tried to take
some photos, but realized it wasn’t possible —
unless your name is Jamey Stillings. As you’ll see
in Bridging the Gap, his photos are as impressive as
the construction project itself.
Great photography, it turns out, is a common
theme in this issue. You’ll see another series of
breathtaking photographs in All Dressed Up, John
Running’s rare portfolio of Hopi Indians in their
ceremonial dress. There’s even more to look at
in Best Picture, which features the winners of our
second-annual online photography contest. Like
last year, we had some incredible entries, but the
best of the best was a photo titled Spotlit Sand Falls
by a young man named Chikku Baiju. You’ll be
impressed by his photo, and also by his age. He’s
only 18, which is half the age of Barry Goldwater
when The Shepherdess landed on our cover in 1946.
Although Chikku hasn’t gotten a cover yet, it’s
only a matter of time. This kid is that good. Plus,
we do a lot of covers at Arizona Highways.
S E P T EMB E R 2 0 1 0 V O L . 8 6 , N O. 9
Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published
monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation.
Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the
U.S. Single copy: $3.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. Subscrip-tion
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© 2010 by the Arizona
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in whole or in part without
is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and
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PRODUCED IN THE USA
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Deputy Art Director
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Design Production Assistant
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Letters to the Editor
2039 W. Lewis Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85009
JANICE K. BREWER
Director, Department of Transportation
JOHN S. HALIKOWSKI
Arizona Transportation Board
ROBERT M. MONTOYA
WILLIAM J. FELDMEIER
FELIPE ANDRES ZUBIA
BARBARA ANN LUNDSTROM
VICTOR M. FLORES
STEPHEN W. CHRISTY
KELLY O. ANDERSON
ROBERT STIEVE, editor
If you like what you see in this
magazine every month, check
out Arizona Highways Television,
an Emmy Award-winning pro-gram
hosted by former news
anchor Robin Sewell. For broad-cast
times, visit our website,
click the Arizona Highways Televi-sion
link on our home page.
ARIZONA HIGHWAYS TV
Follow me on Twitter: www.twitter.com/azhighways.
4 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 5
letters to the editor
I can’t help but notice that Arizona
Highways rarely publishes photos
taken by female photographers.
PAT YOUNG, PHOENIX
PHOTO EDITOR’S NOTE: Great question, Pat. You’re
not the first person to ask it. The short answer is: I
really don’t know. In my 30 years of working with
the magazine, first as a contributing photographer
and now as photo editor, it’s always been that way.
As you probably know, most of our photographs
come from freelance photographers, and the
overwhelming number of submissions are from
men. That said, we are starting to see a shift. If you
have a copy of our March 2010 issue, you’ll notice
that the cover photo was taken by Suzanne Mathia.
She also photographed the front and back covers
of our December 2009 issue, and was featured in
our July 2010 portfolio. Suzanne was an amateur
photographer who recently began submitting her
work. You’ll be seeing a lot more of her, and other
women as well, we hope. From our perspective, all
that matters is that the images measure up — it
doesn’t matter whether the photographer is a man
or a woman.
A SCOT ON THE ROCKS
I was very excited by the Grand
Canyon issue [May 2010]. I’m from
Scotland, and have traveled to Latin
America and lived in Arizona for
several months. I would like to let
your readers know that throughout
my travels, my favourite place, by far,
is the Grand Canyon. I trekked to
Havasu Falls in early December 2007.
The magnificence of the Canyon,
along with Havasu Falls and Mooney
Falls, was immense. Standing knee-deep
in the river, gazing up at the
falls in absolute awe of the beauty
and force of nature, was astounding.
I thought to myself that everyone at
some point in his or her life should
witness this incredible beauty. I
also wish that more locals would
get out and enjoy the beauty on their
doorstep — not just the visitors from
other states and countries. I would
like to thank a very good friend of
mine whom I met on a trip to Arizona
for his gift of this magazine subscrip-tion,
and also for sharing this won-derful
state with me, enabling me to
fall in love with the natural delights
it has to offer. Arizona is definitely at
the top of my list of places to return to!
ELAINE KERR, EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
I’ve been an Arizona resident for
almost 30 years now, having moved
here when I was 4. So, I consider
myself a native. I also have to admit
that I’m an Arizona Highways “recep-tion
room reader” — only reading
the magazine in doctors’ offices. That
is, until today. Today I picked up the
April 2010 issue to see one of our local
eateries, Los Manjares de Pepe, in an
article [Best Restaurants 2010]. After
reading the rest of the magazine, I’m
hooked. I loved your editorial on the
age of the magazine — that was won-derful.
Keep up the great work!
JOHN HEILIGENTHAL, YUMA, ARIZONA
After reading your article about din-ers
and drive-ins in the November
2009 issue, I decided that visiting a
few of them would be a great idea for
a motorcycle ride. We left Denver on
April 19, 2010, and after a few motel
nights started down the Devil’s
Highway [U.S. Route 191, formerly
numbered as U.S. Route 666]. I must
say it’s all it’s cracked up to be —
miles and miles of twisty turns just
perfect for motorcycling. Our first
diner stop was in Willcox at Carter’s
Drive-In. Unfortunately, we got there
before they opened, but we did man-age
to get some photos. A day or so
later we made it down to Dot’s Diner
in Bisbee — in a morning snowstorm,
I might add. Best pancakes I’ve had
in years! All in all, it was a great ride
inspired by your diner article.
JOEL WEISSMAN, DENVER, COLORADO
MY 35 CENTS’ WORTH
I’m a second-generation Arizonan.
My dad was born in Jerome in 1912,
and I was born in Flagstaff in 1940.
I was raised in Miami and spent
most of my life in Arizona, with
the exception of smoke-jumping in
Alaska and military service in Korea
and Germany. I’m retired from the
airlines and worked at the Grand
Canyon, and in Yuma and Phoenix.
I attended college in Flagstaff, and
graduated from Mesa Community
College and Arizona State University.
In 1985 I was transferred to Memphis
and have been here ever since. If it
weren’t for family in Tennessee, my
wife and I would move back home
to Arizona and hug a cactus to stay
warm. About a month ago a friend
brought me a box of 30 old issues of
Arizona Highways found in a house his
parents had purchased. The issues
dated from 1955 to 1959, and they’re
in pristine condition. Talk about
a bunch of old memories. In 1955 I
was in the 8th grade at Bullion Plaza
School in Miami. In 1959 I graduated
from high school in Miami. Even
“back then” the magazine was fabu-lous.
By the way, the magazine cost
only 35 cents in those days. Thanks
for the memories.
NORM HILL, MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE
If you have
we’d love to hear
from you. We can
be reached at
by mail at 2039
W. Lewis Avenue,
85009. For more
Here’s the Steeple
The Superstition Mountains are best
known for the legend of the Lost
Dutchman, but another legend has
a presence, too. The Elvis Presley
Memorial Chapel sits in the shadow of
the mountains as part of the Supersti-tion
Mountain Museum, where you
can learn about the history, folklore
and legends of the region. Information:
480-983-4888 or www.superstition
people > dining > lodging > photography > history > nature > things to do > > > > THE JOURNAL 09.10
6 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 7
SITTING IN A CHAIN restaurant in Payson with Jerry Jacka is kind of how you’d imagine
going to yoga with Elvis. Things just don’t add up.
Elvis, had he not left the building, should be onstage somewhere, danc-ing
and sweating and hunka-hunka-burnin’-loving into the wee hours of
the night with a bevy of women and a plateful of peanut butter, bacon and
banana sandwiches. Likewise, Jacka should be behind the lens of a camera in some beau-tiful
Arizona landscape, documenting the state and its people, building relationships and
making beautiful images.
Instead, his grizzly sized paws are pushing a fork around a plate of barbecued-chicken
salad while he discusses some of the first photographs he ever made — images of rattle-
THE JOURNAL > people THE JOURNAL > people
— Dave Pratt is the author of
Behind the Mic: 30 Years in Radio
P R A T T ’ S Q&A
J. PETER MORTIMER H E B E R
snakes coiled next to beer bottles and cow
skulls. Those photos never made it into
the pages of this magazine, but Jacka, who
worked for a time as a forensics photog-rapher,
does credit Arizona Highways with
launching his photographic career.
“My parents always had the magazine
lying around, and I saw one photograph by
Ray Manley that just struck me,” he says.
“He had shot some Indian artifacts, and
there were some artifacts around when
I was in high school that I had tried to
photograph. I had a dream that one day my
images would appear in Arizona Highways.”
After several rejections, Jacka’s work
finally made its way into print. His first
published photograph — in the July 1958
issue of Arizona Highways — was a “gosh-awful”
shot of the Painted Desert that he
took while on his honeymoon with his
Of course, Lois was at the lunch, too.
Jerry wouldn’t be Jerry without his wife,
his right hand and his writer, Lois Essary
Jacka, who hasn’t really left his side since
“Lois and I were both raised on neigh-boring
ranches in North Phoenix, and we
walked to our one-room school together,”
Jerry says. “She found me a job so we could
get married at 18 years old. The job was as a
baby photographer, and I didn’t know one
end of a baby from the other.”
She showed him, which was a good
thing, considering the couple has since
raised two children of their own.
Eventually, Jerry became Arizona High-ways’
go-to photographer for shots of Indian
art and artifacts, and gained worldwide
acclaim for his cover shot of the January
1974 Turquoise Attitudes issue, which still
ranks as the best-selling issue ever of Ari-zona
Throughout his career, Jerry built spe-cial
relationships with Arizona’s Native
American residents. They knew, he says,
that if he photographed their art, the art
“We’d have just thousands of dollars
worth of jewelry and art in our possession
for Jerry to photograph,” Lois says. “People
trusted us. Whenever we visited
the reservations, the people
knew that we weren’t looking
down at them. We were very
much like them.” The couple
recalls becoming such good
friends with Hopi families that
they were invited into kivas and
to observe ceremonies — cel-ebrations
of rites that are tradi-tionally
closed to visitors.
And, with the Navajos, the
Jackas would “buy a rug here
and there.” Jacka was drawn to
Indian art and, luckily, he says,
he’s married to a gal who will
tolerate his passion.
“The Hopis, the Navajos,
they’re no different from you
and me,” he adds. “The biggest
bit of wisdom we learned from
all of our time with them was
respect. We respected them
and they respected us. We made some
Those relationships even led to a special
trip to the Navajo Nation with the late
conservationist Stewart Udall and Udall’s
good friend, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
Udall and the Jackas had collaborated on
a book about Coronado, and Udall and
Onassis visited Arizona to retrace some of
the explorer’s steps.
“Stewart wanted to take a side trip to
show her Canyon de Chelly, and it was like
a production,” Jerry says. “We took her
down this path to show her White House
Ruin. We were down about 500 yards and
here came this old Navajo with a herd of
sheep. It was like we ordered it up for her
— the whole scene.”
Later, at a place called Corner Café, the
former first lady ordered Navajo tacos and a
little bit of ice cream. “A lady came up — a
Navajo lady — and a little girl,” Jerry says,
a lump rising in his throat. “She excused
herself and said she just wanted her girl to
shake Jackie’s hand. People just loved her.”
Many people just love Jerry, too, from
fellow photographers to art aficionados
to longtime readers of Arizona Highways. At
75, he’s no longer running around the state
with a camera to his eye. Instead, the Elvis
of Southwestern photography can be found
at his Heber-area ranch with Lois, and
“plenty of stuff to do.”
Because this is the photography issue, we wanted our Journal
profile to spotlight one of the iconic photographers of the
industry. The choice was easy — we simply sent our writer north
to interview Jerry Jacka.
By KELLY KRAMER
Food Network Chef
If you were trying to impress Giada de Lau-rentiis,
where in Arizona would you take her?
I’d have Giada jump on the back of a Harley
Davidson and we’d head up to the Mogollon
Rim, then on to the Grand Canyon, visiting all
of the beautiful spots that Arizona has to offer.
Best place in the state for a killer breakfast?
Hands down, the best place is Matt’s Big
Breakfast in downtown Phoenix. It’s the
If you could cook dinner for any Arizona
legend, living or dead, who would it be?
Pat Tillman. Every time I see or hear his name,
I think about the ultimate sacrifice he made
for his country — for us. He’s the epitome of a
true American hero.
What are some of your favorite local ingre-dients?
I can’t narrow it down to one specific ingredi-ent,
but over the past 11 years I’ve worked
very closely with Pat Duncan of Duncan
Farms. He grows some incredible products.
The next time I get the opportunity to cook at
the James Beard House in New York, I’m tak-ing
my crew and my farmer with me. That’s
how we roll.
Is there a single dish that symbolizes Arizona?
In lieu of a dish, I’ll name a restaurant — El
Chorro Lodge in Scottsdale. It screams Ari-zona,
and it’s a landmark.
Spider Rock rises 800 feet from the floor of Canyon de Chelly.
8 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 9
A Tough Subject
It sounded like a good idea at the time: film a campaign commercial
for Senator Goldwater in one of his favorite places. But in Monument
Valley, as the film crew quickly learned, the senator had a hard
time focusing on anything but his own photography.
By JEFF KIDA, photo editor
ALTHOUGH THE CHUPAROSA INN is just 40 miles southeast of Tucson, it feels a world
away. And in many respects, it is — given that this rustic slice of paradise, nestled among
the live oaks, sycamores and cottonwoods of Madera Canyon, is part of a sky island cre-ated
by the Santa Rita Mountains and the surrounding desert floor. With burbling Madera
Creek running along the property’s edge, the Chuparosa, which means “nec-tar-
sucker” or “hummingbird” in Spanish, is home to 15 species of that flitting
critter, which show up in such high numbers that the site has become a bona
fide research station for ornithologists who’ve initiated a banding program. Guests lucky
enough to be around on a Monday morning in spring might be allowed to hold a humming-bird,
feeling its tiny, 1,200-beats-per-minute heart banging against their palms.
Avid birders also flock to the inn to catch glimpses of more than 200 other avian species,
including the elegant trogon, a rare and colorful beauty that flies in from Mexico in the warmer
months. Deer, javelinas, wild turkeys, coatimundi, mountain lions and even bears sometimes
make an appearance, as well, which explains the bear-proof birdhouses and feeders (more
graceful than you’d imagine) found on the flower-filled and terraced patios that hug both sides
of the creek. Wildlife or no, these are soothing places to relax and listen to the wind in the trees.
With its multiwindowed turret, made of native stone and wood, the inn looks a bit like
a minicastle, yet manages, somehow, to seem quaint and cozy,
thanks to a multitude of homey touches. Four guestrooms, each
furnished with private baths and reached by private entry, display
the work of local photographers, artists and artisans, all of whom
celebrate nature with a capital “N.” The Elegant Trogon Suite
Not Just for the Birds
Although Madera Canyon is world-renowned for its bird-watching,
there are other reasons people flock there, including hiking and the
Chuparosa Inn, a cozy B&B that offers an idyllic dose of R&R.
By NIKKI BUCHANAN
(more like a small apartment and the only
guestroom to boast a full kitchen, a TV and
a stacked washer/dryer) contains enough
books on the subject to keep an outdoors
enthusiast reading for years.
In addition to bird-watchers, these are the
folks most likely to visit Chuparosa: hikers
who want to tackle one of the canyon’s many
trails, some of them short and easy, others
requiring considerably more expertise and
stamina. Go-getters ascend to nearly 10,000
feet on the summit of Mount Wrightson, which
is capped with snow a good portion of the year.
All trailheads are just minutes from the inn.
Knowing that many of their clients prefer
to do their own thing, owners Luis Calvo and
Nancy Hertel — who live above the guest-rooms
— stock each kitchen or kitchenette
with everything necessary for a healthy, rib-sticking
breakfast: juices, coffee, cocoa and
milk, fresh fruit, yogurt, dry fruit-studded
granola, freshly baked muffins, and some-thing
main course-y like quiche or pancakes.
Guests get up and get breakfast at their
leisure, no need to worry about racing down-stairs
to join the others.
And that’s the beauty of this charming
B&B, where you’re free to be as lazy or as
energetic as you want to be.
The Chuparosa Inn is located
at 1300 Madera Canyon Road
in Madera Canyon. For more
information, call 520-393-7370
or visit www.chuparosainn.com.
I was in Monument
Valley recently, wait-ing
for the sun to
reappear from a bank
of low-hanging clouds.
From my vantage
point, I could see rays
of light striking distant
to the north,
but I was
so intent on
what I thought would
certainly happen at
my location that I
almost missed the
spectacle behind me.
As I turned to grab a
second camera, I was
treated to a crescent
moon beginning its
descent behind the
Three Sisters. As great
as things might be in
front of your camera,
remember to periodi-cally
scan the entire
horizon, including the
one behind you. You
might be pleasantly
— Jeff Kida, photo editor
Look for our book, Arizona
Guide, available at book-stores
O N L I N E To see the 1968 Goldwater television commercial, visit www.arizonahighways.com.
THEJOURNAL > photography
O N L I N E
For more photography
tips and other informa-tion,
highways.com and click
THE JOURNAL > lodging
O N L I N E For more lodging in Arizona, visit our “Lodging Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
IN SEPTEMBER 1968, WHEN advertising executive Jay Taylor traveled to Monument Valley with
Barry Goldwater to make a television commercial, he didn’t know how difficult it would be to
capture his subject on film. As creative director for Goldwater’s U.S. Senate ad campaign that
year, Taylor was charged with showing Goldwater’s affinity for his home state in one of Goldwa-ter’s
favorite places — the Navajo Nation. While Taylor was busy trying to film Goldwater, Gold-water
was busy photographing the stunning landscapes that surrounded them on Hunts Mesa.
That’s not surprising, considering photography was one of Goldwater’s passions. “Many times I
had to say, ‘Senator, could you hand the Nikon to my brother and let me take your picture?’ ” Tay-lor
says. Despite working overtime to keep Goldwater on track, Taylor says the end result was
worth the effort. “God really did all the work. We had bright sunlight, we had clouds, we had
wind and mist. It was really a wonderful 6 or 7 hours.”
Barry Goldwater on Hunts Mesa, 1968.
PHOTOGRAPH BY JAY TAYLOR
M A D E R A
C A N Y O N
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THERE WEREN’T ANY WALMARTS or Targets in the Arizona
Territory. Or anywhere else in the late 1800s. And so, getting
things like flour, produce, cloth and hardware was
tough. The situation was even more challenging on
the Navajo Reservation. That is, until an entrepreneur
named John Lorenzo Hubbell (pictured) moved into the area.
Hubbell, who was known as Don Lorenzo or “Double Glasses,”
grew up in New Mexico and had traveled the Southwest as a clerk
and interpreter for the United States military. He knew that the
Navajos were familiar with commerce and eager for goods. He also
understood the tribe’s time-honored tradition of bartering. With
that in mind, he opened his first trading post at Ganado in 1878.
Working with his Navajo neighbors, he took in the wool, maize,
Today, trading posts are often thought of as
tourist traps, but in the Arizona Territory, places
like Hubbell Trading Post served a critical role,
especially on the reservations.
By SALLY BENFORD
hides, woven blankets and handmade
rugs they brought him in trade for gro-ceries
and hardware. While selling their
products, Hubbell also served as an unof-ficial
cultural ambassador for the tribe,
helping bridge the gap between the Anglo
and Indian cultures. He even influenced
the art that they created. Among other
things, he encouraged weavers to use
the best materials and instructed them
about which rug designs were the most
popular with collectors. He also brought
silversmiths from Mexico to teach them
the art of jewelry-making. Perhaps most
importantly, Hubbell fulfilled an essen-tial
human need. Not only did he supply
the Navajos with food, his trading posts
also allowed them to hold on to their dig-nity
Over his lifetime, Hubbell built a com-mercial
empire that at one time included more than 30 trading
posts, as well as mail and freight lines. He sold or quit most of the
ventures, but he continued his Ganado trading post until his death
in 1930. Hubbell’s sons, John Lorenzo Jr., Roman and Roman’s
wife, Dorothy, operated that business until 1967, when it was pur-chased
by the National Park Service. Today, Hubbell Trading Post
National Historic Site still operates in much the same way it did in
Don Lorenzo’s days.
This month, on September 18, the Friends of Hubbell Trad-ing
Post will sponsor its semiannual Native American Arts and
Crafts Auction. Proceeds from the sale will
provide scholarships for Navajo and Hopi
GA NA DO
■ On September 25,
D. Roosevelt visited
Phoenix and rode in
an open-air car with
W.P. Hunt during a
■ Captain Lorenzo
along the Little
Colorado River on
September 29, 1851,
during his expedi-tion
to find a new
route to California
via the Zuni and
amounts of rain
caused the Santa
Cruz River and
Santa Rosa Wash
to overflow and
flood large portions
Arizona in late
The area’s ranches
and farms sustained
more than $3 mil-lion
Our September 1960 issue featured the work
of iconic photographer Josef Muench, who,
with writer/wife Joyce, explored the labyrinth
of highways that cut through Arizona. We
also told the story of the firefighters who
battled the Pranty Fire, which ravaged parts
of the Tonto National Forest.
50 years ago
I N A R I Z O N A H I G H W A Y S
THEJOURNAL > history THEJOURNAL > history
3475 or www.friendsof
hubbell.org. NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY CLINE LIBRARY
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 11
On the Edge
For more than 75 years,
Emery (pictured) and
Ellsworth Kolb documented
Arizona’s crown jewel — the
Grand Canyon. It began in
1903, when they built a studio
on the edge of the South Rim.
In extremely rugged condi-tions,
the intrepid brothers
hiked the Canyon, ran the
rapids and produced the first
moving pictures of the
Colorado River, as well as
photographs of 3 million
Grand Canyon tourists.
Today, South Rim visitors can
view the brothers’ impressive
body of work at Kolb Studio.
Information: 928-638-2481 or
12 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 13
Elk just might be the gigolos of the deer
world. Consider this quote from the
Arizona Game and Fish Department
website: “Harems may number up to 30,
depending on the vigor of the bull, but usually
average 15 to 20.”
During the rut, which typically occurs in
early September, bulls will bugle to attract
cows, and then defend their harems against
less-popular males that attempt to poach the
pretty ladies. It’s an elk-style version of Ulti-mate
Fighting Championship that includes
antler sparring, plenty of posturing and a
bunch of grunting and bellowing. The com-batants
are ranked as heavyweights — male
elk can weigh in at a whopping 1,200 pounds,
although most range between 600 and 800.
Chalk their size up to four-chambered
stomachs and square meals of grass, weeds,
shrubs and even trees, including aspens, piñon
pines and junipers. That’s why you’ll find Ari-zona’s
Cervus canadensus population primarily
in the White Mountains, along the Mogollon
Rim and around the San Francisco Peaks, at
elevations between 7,000 and 10,000 feet in
the summer and 5,500 to 6,500 feet in the
winter. Their carb-heavy diet provides plenty
of fuel for long-distance runs, which come in
handy if you’re trying to avoid a frisky male elk
in search of one more female for his harem.
The massive marathoners can reach
speeds up to 40 mph, but they’re also amaz-ing
vertical jumpers, capable of reaching
heights between 8 and 10 feet. They’re win-ners
when it comes to swimming, too — even
calves can swim nearly a mile at a time.
You’ll normally start spotting baby elk
between late May and early June. Calves
weigh roughly 30 pounds at birth, and have
white-spotted, russet-colored coats. Summer
coats are a deep, reddish-brown color, while
winter coats tend to be grayish-brown, with
a yellowish-brown rump patch. Bull elk, of
course, are known for their antlers, which,
like all good things, come with age.
The antler cast takes place between Janu-ary
and March for adult bulls, and between
March and May for adolescents. New
growth begins immediately after the cast
and takes between 90 and 150 days. That’s
why, according to AZGFD, it’s possible to see
yearlings with old spikes and old fogies with
velvety soft antlers. Steer clear, unless you
want to go toe-to-toe with a gigolo.
Watch for Elk When you’re out driving around this fall,
keep your eyes peeled for Arizona’s largest ungulate. It won’t be hard.
The average elk weighs in at 700 pounds, and the big daddies can go
as high as 1,200. By KELLY KRAMER
THEJOURNAL > nature
or thistle but-terflies,
ladies are the
butterflies in the
black, brown and
orange, with an
their lives span
only two weeks,
the fancy fliers
live it up — sip-ping
and clover nectar
within a week of
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
SUDDENLY, BURGERS ARE SEXY. High-end burger joints have sprung up everywhere.
They lure customers in with garish toppings, like lobster and foie gras, and serve Kobe
beef from beer-fed, hand-massaged cows. So it’s no surprise those
burgers are pricey, especially when you factor in the cow’s bar tab
and tip for an undoubtedly startled masseuse.
Then there’s Bing’s Burger Station in Old Town Cottonwood. At Bing’s, owner Judd
Bing’s for a Day
Every once in a while, it’s good to take a break from the stresses and
diet restrictions of everyday life — if even for just a day — and one
of the best places to let loose is Bing’s Burger Station in Cottonwood.
By ROGER NAYLOR
Wasden tamps down the gimmicks, doing
little beyond slapping a fresh, hand-formed
patty of premium meat on the flattop
griddle. A couple of spatula flips later,
and you’re being served a mouthwatering
burger. The certified Black Angus meat
is firm but tender. The flattop sears in a
sweet juiciness. Then the burger’s topped
with lettuce, tomato, pickles and a thick-cut
slab of onion so fresh it cracks like a
rifle shot at every bite.
The essence of a great burger is simplic-ity,
using fresh ingredients to achieve the
perfect union of meat and bread, where
accessories enhance, not overpower. Was-den
takes the same deliberate approach
with his fries. They start the morning as
potatoes and then are sliced thin, skin-on,
and cooked in rice oil. The result is
a virtually greaseless, utterly spudtastic
fry. Shakes and malts are also made the
old-fashioned way, with hard ice cream
whipped in milkshake mixers.
Bing’s occupies an old gas station and
is disguised as ... you guessed it, an old gas
station. Wasden wanted to pay homage to
his grandparents, who ran a small-town
American Standard station. The place fits
in perfectly with Old Town, a history-rich
stretch of shops and restaurants housed
in Prohibition-era buildings and fronted
by covered sidewalks. Out front, beside
antique gas pumps, sits an orange 1950
Plymouth Special Deluxe that Wasden
found in Flagstaff and restored. The interi-
or of Bing’s features clean lines and shiny
chrome and is stocked with authentic
Everyone needs safe harbor from the
small storms of everyday life. Bing’s, like
all good hamburger joints, offers sanctu-ary.
A burger is the ultimate comfort food
because it’s a flashback on a bun. With
the first taste you’re transported to a more
innocent time when your world revolved
around simple pleasures like cartoons,
running fast down a hill for no reason, and
throwing rocks at someone you had a crush
on, then refueling with a burger and shake.
So forget about office woes and choles-terol
levels for one day. Slide into a booth at
Bing’s Burger Sta-tion
and bite into
your delicious past.
Would you like
fries with that?
Bing’s Burger Station is
located at 794 N. Main
Street in Cottonwood.
For more information,
call 928-649-1718 or visit
THEJOURNAL > dining
O N L I N E For more dining in Arizona, visit our “Dining Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
C O T T O N W O O D
14 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
Plein Air on the Rim
S E P T EMB E R 1 1 - 1 8 GR AN D CAN YON
Visitors can see modern-day masters practice their craft during the
Second Annual Grand Canyon Celebration of Art on the park’s South
Rim. The event features 30 artists from around the country in a plein-air
competition and a quick-draw competition, as well as an auction
and exhibition. The art will be on exhibition and for sale through
November 28. Information: www.grandcanyon.org.
This annual fair, which started in 1938 as a venue for the Navajo
people to sell their arts and crafts, has become a major event for the
Navajo Nation to showcase their foods, agriculture, artists and cul-ture.
With 26 events, including a powwow, wild-horse race, rodeo and
fry-bread contest, the Navajo Nation Fair attracts more than 60,000
visitors each year, making it the largest Indian fair and rodeo in the
United States. Information: 928-871-6703 or www.navajonationfair.com.
S E P T EMBER 6 - 1 2
THEJOURNAL > things to do
Standin’ on the Corner Festival
S E P T EMB E R 24 -2 5 W INS LOW
Appropriately, this festival features a salute
to The Eagles with a concert by the band
Hotel California, as well as other musical
performances. The celebration includes arts
and crafts, food and a car show. The festival
runs in conjunction with the High Desert
Piecemakers Quilt Show at the Snowdrift Art
Space in Winslow. Information: 928-289-2516
Roasted Chile Festival
S E P T EMB E R 1 8 VA I L
Southern Arizona is chile country, and the
folks at Rincon Valley Farmers & Artisans
Market know how to celebrate. Roasted,
Arizona-grown chiles, several varieties of
fresh chiles and chile ristras take center stage
at this event. Organic produce, live music,
handcrafted items, children’s activities and a
beer garden round out the event. Information:
520-591-2276 or www.rvfm.org.
L A K E POWE L L
Lake Powell and Glen
Recreation Area are
the focus of “Prepos-terous
a workshop with
Gary Ladd that takes
place October 17-22.
Explore the area on foot and by boat, hike to Marble and Lower
Antelope canyons and cruise across the vast expanse of Lake Pow-ell.
Information: 888-790-7042 or www.friendsofazhighways.com.
Apple Harvest Celebration
S E P T EMB E R 4 - 6 , 1 1 - 1 2 W I L LCOX
Experience a “taste of the country” at Apple Annie’s Orchards. Start
with an all-you-can-eat pancake breakfast, followed by free wagon
rides to the orchard, where you can pick your own red and golden
delicious and Rome beauty apples. Be sure to try the roasted sweet
corn, and don’t miss the homemade apple pie. Information: 520-384-
2084 or www.appleannies.com.
WILLIAM S. BROOKINS DON B. STEVENSON
Plan a stopover at the
Blazin’ M Ranch dinner
theatre where “Happy Trails”
are just the beginning. The
rustic ambiance, chuckwagon-style,
and knee-slapping crooning
with tall-tales and tomfoolery
are guaranteed to tickle your
Chuckwagon Supper and
Live Western Stage Show
MEETS OLD WEST
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Around the country, Barry Goldwater is best known for his distinguished
career in the U.S. Senate. Here at home, however, he’s also known for his
photography, which graced the pages of this magazine on many occasions.
Recently, Mr. Goldwater’s son Michael asked if we’d like access to the family
archive, including the images in Michael’s book, The Eyes of His Soul:
The Visual Legacy of Barry M. Goldwater, Master Photographer. “Hell yes,”
we replied, and just like that, Barry Goldwater is back in Arizona Highways.
edited by jeff kida
A G O L D W A T E R F A M I L Y A L B U M
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 19
Preceding panel: BARRY AND BOYS
Barry Goldwater made a habit of traveling throughout Arizona with his children. Here, Michael (left) and
Barry Jr. (right) pose for a photograph with their dad during a camping trip in Northern Arizona. Michael
says, “What I enjoyed was being yanked out of school to go along with Dad.”
Above: NAVAJO PONY, circa 1938
“The tried and tested mount featured in this image was a favorite of Dad’s for a wide variety of reasons.
Let him speak for the circumstances surrounding their introduction: ‘This Navajo pony was ground-tied
by the hitching post at Tonalea [now called Red Lake] when I saw him in the 1930s.’ ”
— Michael Goldwater Sr.
Right: BIG COUNTRY, 1953
“A good friend of mine described Arizona as the ‘Big Country.’ This piece of the ‘Big Country’ is
between the lumber town of McNary and the sportsman’s center, Springerville. ... The hill in the dis-tance
is an extinct volcanic cone, one of many that dot this White Mountains area, reminding us that
out of the violence of evolution has come the quiet beauty which is ours.” — Barry Goldwater
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Preceding panel: THE DESERT CORSAGE, 1936
“The desert corsage, a picture of two blossoming flowers of the giant saguaro taken about 1936. These
flowers bloom at night and start dying as soon as the sun rises.” — Barry Goldwater
Left: THE VALLEY, 1967
“Over the years, Dad shot a vast series of frames of the mesas, spires and buttes that rise as much as a
mile high out of the majestic valley [Monument Valley]. This image conveys both his love of the place
and his technical precision at maximizing depth of field.” — Michael Goldwater Sr.
Above: HOPI CHILD, 1959
“This little bucket of fire was the daughter of Mr. Potter, a Hopi who lived in the Grand Canyon at
the Indian shop. When she would see me coming, she would run up to me and want me to take her
picture.” — Barry Goldwater
24 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 25
Left: TOTEM POLE AND YEI-BE-CHAI, 1967
“Two of Dad’s favorite times of day to take photographs were early morning and
twilight. This view of Monument Valley captures the late afternoon soft, pastel-like
blending of the evening sky, muting the harshness of the towering spires,
while they shield the young double-bareback riding Navajo sisters on their way
home.” — Michael Goldwater Sr.
Above: THE CHIEF, 1948
“This man is a Navajo who lived up in the Paiute country, which is north of
Navajo Mountain. This is one of my favorite pictures. I just call it ‘The Chief.’ ”
— Barry Goldwater
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 27
Above: THE FENCE, 1967
“Dad had an eye for the odd and the peculiar, particularly makeshift man-made edifices cast starkly
against the natural landscape. The location is near the Goulding’s Trading Post in Monument Valley.”
— Michael Goldwater Sr.
Right: NAVAJO MAN AT SPRING, 1959
“Reflecting the pride and dignity of the Navajo people, Dad continually strived to capture character
traits as well as location. This photograph was taken against the sandstone cliffs of Canyon de Chelly
in Northeastern Arizona.” — Michael Goldwater Sr.
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28 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
The Eyes of His Soul: The Visual Legacy of Barry M. Goldwater,
Master Photographer is published by the Arizona Histori-cal
Foundation, and is available at www.amazon.com or
by calling 602-xxx-xxxx.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 29
Left: FAMILY OUTING, 1950
“Dad’s belief in the value of direct experience was such that he
oftentimes pulled us out of school for these trips, under the guise
that we were off to study Arizona. And study Arizona we did to
the extent that all four of us came to share his passion for off-the-beaten-
path Arizona.” — Michael Goldwater Sr.
Above: BARRY AND BROTHER BOB
The Goldwater brothers, Bob (left) and Barry (right), make a stop
on Navajo Bridge after it opened to traffic in 1929.
THE EYES OF HIS SOUL:
The Visual Legacy of
Barry M. Goldwater, Master
Photographer is published
by the Arizona Historical
Foundation, and is available
graphs.com or by e-mailing
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 31
Of all the native peoples of North America, the Hopis are perhaps the
most fascinating. Their nation is home to the oldest continuously inhabited
settlement in North America, and their ceremonial dress is spectacular
and symbolic. Worn to show gratitude for moisture during social dances
in the non-Katsina season, from August to January, few photographers
ever get a chance to shoot it — John Running is one of the lucky ones.
All Dressed Up
❂ p h o t o g r a p h s b y j o h n r u n n i n g ❂
30 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 33
PRECEDING PANEL: Linda Monongye, a member of the
Nuvatukya’ovi Sinom Dance Group from Hotevilla, wears the colors
of Tangaqwunu tseletipko, the rainbow dancer who offers gratitude
and prayers for moisture: snow in the winter and rain in the sum-mer.
The red cheek paint represents rain, and the headdress sym-bolizes
a rain cloud with a rainbow surrounding the dancer’s face.
The feathers are from an eagle — the bird that carries the prayers
to the gods. Hooma, white cornmeal, covers her face, making her
beautiful and pure with that which came from the Earth.
ABOVE AND RIGHT: Worn by Palhikwmana, water maiden danc-ers
Shawna Kyasyousie (above) and Kalaela Namokie (right), the
tablitas, or headdresses, tell a story. The triangles in the center
and on either side represent the San Francisco Peaks with rain
clouds overhead. The corn symbolizes the harvest, and the colors
indicate the four cardinal directions: white for north, red for east,
blue for south and yellow for west.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 35
LEFT: Representing Palhikwtigo, the moisture-drinking
boy, Lester Honanvema is painted with the colors of
the ground (yellow), the sky (blue) and rain (red).
BELOW: Keara Nasavaema wears the outfit of
Tsukumana, the clown girl, which includes a corn husk
in her hair and a cape that represents the colors of the
eagle. Her abalone-shell necklace symbolizes water.
36 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
BRIDGING THE G AP
For 75 years, crossing the Hoover Dam was
the easiest way to get from Nevada to Arizona.
It was a scenic bucket-list experience, but
it was slow going. This fall, that dam cross-ing
will be a thing of the past. A new bridge
is going in — an unbelievably impressive new
bridge — and our photographer was on-site to
document its construction.
b y j o d i c i s m a n
p h o t o g r a p h s b y j a m e y s t i l l i n g s
Made on the evening of April 29, 2009, this image of the
Arizona arch segment of the Hoover Dam Bypass highlights
the highline catenary system. Identified by the two lighted
towers, the system transported most of the construction
materials and workers out to the arch’s construction area.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 37
tanding on the rocky edge of the Colo-rado
River’s Black Canyon, photogra-pher
Jamey Stillings was mesmerized
as he gazed up at two massive concrete
structures that seemed to leap off the
side of the canyon and soar into the
topaz sky — they were support structures for the
Hoover Dam Bypass.
It was an unexpected sight along a detour to Hoover
Dam during a road trip with his assistant last March.
“My initial perception of the bridge was more of a gut
feeling,” Stillings says. “There’s something very excit-ing
He decided to stay for 24 hours so he could photo-graph
the magnificent structure from a variety of angles
at different times of the day. Those 24 hours turned into
26 days, and those 26 days generated this portfolio.
Both the photos and the bridge are impressive.
In all, the $240 million Hoover Dam Bypass soars
nearly 900 feet above the Colorado River. It’s an engi-neering
marvel that dwarfs the existing bridge, which
was the main route for people traveling between
Nevada and Arizona on U.S. Route 93. The old route,
which was notorious for its sharp, winding turns and
seemingly endless congestion, was ineffective and
dangerous. By diverting traffic to the new bridge, the
incidence of pedestrian-vehicle accidents is expected
to decrease, along with bottlenecks on the nearby inter-state
The project also helps preserve the 75-year-old his-toric
Hoover Dam monument. When construction
began on the dam in 1931, it was the largest undertak-ing
of its kind. Although the dam’s main purposes are
flood control, agricultural irrigation and the generation
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 39
Captured from the banks of the Colorado River on May 21, 2009, this image features the 24-hour con-struction
of the arch as concrete was poured at night to take advantage of cooler temperatures.
This acrophobic view from the top of the Arizona pylons looks
down through the cable stays toward the Arizona bridge deck.
of hydroelectric power, it also provided thousands of
jobs to Americans during the Great Depression.
Like the dam it detours, the bypass bridge is big. It’s
the largest concrete-arch structure in North America
and the fourth largest in the world. Although con-struction
of the new bridge began in 2005, before the
economic downturn, it continues through “the great
“It’s interesting to note the historic parallel between
the building of the bridge and the dam,” Stillings says.
Just as Ansel Adams captured the wonder of Hoover
Dam, Stillings has captured the awe of the bridge. “If
we didn’t have pictures of Hoover Dam when it was
being built, we wouldn’t be able to remember it the way
we do,” Stillings says. “And I think the same thing’s true
of the bridge. It’s visually compelling to see this techno-logically
challenging bridge shooting out across Black
Canyon, and it’s amazing to imagine putting something
like that together.”
This downstream view of Hoover Dam and the Colorado River shot on February 3,
2010, shows the construction of the highway that will span the top of the arch.
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 41
On the evening of June 29, 2009, the Arizona and Nevada arch segments
neared their rendezvous point over the Colorado River.
Just as they did every morning, ironworkers climbed up the
Nevada side of the arch segment on April 29, 2009, to start
work. Cable stays supported the arch construction until the arch
span was completed.
Picture We thought it was tough picking a winner last year.
And then we started looking at this year’s entries.
Holy moly! Hats off to everyone who submitted
images in our second-annual online photography
contest. Like the first time around, we were inundated
with a hard drive full of fantastic shots. What follows
are the finalists, and up first is the best of the best.
Ed i t e d b y J e f f K id a
Grand Prize | Landscape
CHIKKU BAIJU, CHANDLER
“Spotlit Sand Falls”
Slot canyons are at the top of almost every
photographer’s “must-see” list. Most
images of Antelope Canyon focus on the
shaft of light that penetrates the canyon’s
narrow opening, but Chikku Baiju saw it a
little differently. He used the direction of
the limited light to highlight the sand as it
fell over the textured, sculpted sandstone.
By choosing black and white, Chikku
added to the elegance of the image.
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Second Place | Macro
SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS
Chances are, Chuck Schug
knew just the look he was
going for when he created
this image. The clean back-ground
provides for a juxta-position
of contrasting col-ors
— the warm pinks of the
Apache plumes set against
the cooler blue of the sky —
to create a photograph that
is pleasing to the eye. Chuck
positioned the camera to
take advantage of a low-to-
high angle, making use
of backlight, which brings
out the delicate, feathery
textures of the blooms.
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Third Place | People
“Poetry in Motion”
Capturing the kaleido-scope
of energy, color
and movement of a Na-tive
isn’t the easiest task
for a photographer, but
Gerri Levine proves
that she understood
how to create a sense
of motion in a still
photograph. She used
a slow shutter speed
of 1/25 to emphasize
movement, and rested
the lens on the railing
in front of her.
Mention | Wildlife
DAN JACOB, SURPRISE
By using a long telephoto
lens, Dan Jacob kept his
distance from this female
coyote and her pups. The
long lens and backlight
created separation from any
background distraction, and
because the photographer
was patient, the natural
interaction and spontaneity
occurred between the adult
and young coyotes.
Mention | People
“Let ’Er Rip!”
The weather and condi-tions
add to this quintes-sential
bucking bronc shot.
The photographer stayed
the course to capture the
decisive moment when all
of the elements added to the
drama of the image.
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Honorable Mention |
Because the photogra-pher
used a dedicated
100 mm macro lens for
this close-up, the eye
of the bee is tack sharp,
leading the viewers’ eyes
exactly where the pho-tographer
soft light on the radiat-ing
pink flower petals
draws the eyes to the
focal point of the image.
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Honorable Mention | Wildlife
“Recovering From the Storm”
This image is all about
patience and attitude: the
patience of the photogra-pher
and the attitude of
the bird. The photographer
utilized bad weather condi-tions
to make a great photo.
Soft light brings out the tex-tures
of the bird’s drenched
feathers, and shallow depth
of field allowed Kristy to
selectively focus on the bird.
Honorable Mention |
MARTIN REGER, MESA
The photographer and
his wife are avid eagle
watchers, allowing them to
capture key movements of
these majestic birds. This
male eagle was fishing
for its mate on a Central
Arizona lake, and the
photographer used a
400 mm lens and a fast
shutter speed to freeze the
motion of the diving bird.
Honorable Mention | Landscape BOB LARSON, PRESCOTT
“Willow Lake, Sunset”
Low angle, time of day and an extreme wide-angle
lens combined to make this powerful
landscape photograph. The use of strong
textures in the foreground and the leading line
of the lakeshore on the right draw the viewers’
eyes to the center of the photograph.
Every month we showcase the most talented photographers in the world. Now it’s your turn to join the ranks. Enter your
favorite photo in our 2011 Arizona Highways Online Photography Contest. You could win a river trip in the Grand Canyon.
Our contest is open to amateur and professional photographers. All photos must
be made in Arizona and fit into the following categories: People/Culture, Landscape,
Wildlife, and Macro (close-up); only one image per person, per category. For details
on how to submit your digital photographs, visit www.arizonahighways.com. First-,
second- and third-place winners will be published in our September 2011 issue.
Prizes include a photo workshop and digital-camera packages.
2011 Arizona Highways Online Photography Contest. www.arizonahighways.com
TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT.
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everything you need to know about Camp
Verde can be learned by driving Salt Mine
Road. It highlights the town’s rural character
and provides multiple history lessons and deli-cious
scenery. Most significantly, it accentuates
the life-altering dynamics that exist where des-ert
and riparian habitats collide.
Salt Mine Road begins as a tree-draped
country lane. On the left, you’ll spot a big stone
house built in the 1870s by William “Boss” Head,
who ran the sutler store at Fort Verde and later
became an Arizona senator. The road rolls past
tidy ranch homes where you’ll see more horses in
the yards than dogs. After a mile, residences thin
out and the landscape starts to widen. On the
right side you’ll see the road’s namesake, a mound
so defiantly white it would put a gleam in Cap-tain
For a closer inspection, turn onto the small
dirt track and park at the gate. Tucked among the
hills are decaying timbers, crumbling founda-tions
and hulking, rusted machinery, remnants
of a salt-mining operation that ceased in 1933.
What’s not immediately apparent is that this
might be the site of the oldest underground mine
During commercial operations, the company
began unearthing artifacts such as woven yucca
sandals, ax handles and torches. After two mum-mified
miners were discovered, an anthropologist
was brought in. The anthropologist discovered
ancient tunnels and determined that salt was
being mined throughout the Sinagua era, a.d.
1300-1450. Further studies led to speculation that
the mine may have been worked for 2,000 years, as
long as man has inhabited the Verde Valley.
Back on Salt Mine Road, the scenery alternates
between domesticated groupings of ranchettes
and sprawling open terrain. At about 3.5 miles,
the road crests a low ridge and exposes a striking
panorama. Limestone hills ring the valley and
craggy mountains muscle up behind them. In the
distance, the toothy cluster of the San Francisco
Peaks gnaws the horizon. A corridor of green and
gold curves along the valley floor, as cottonwoods
and willows canopy the Verde River along its
winding path. At the peak of the season, this
serpent-like mass blazes with autumn hues.
The road meanders through scrubby foothills
with rocky slopes rising on all sides. Nestled
along the Verde Rim, the rarely visited Cedar
Bench Wilderness looms to the south. Just past
8.5 miles, the road bends sharply left and soon
afterward the pavement ends. Continue on this
easily managed stretch of gravel for another mile
or so to Beasley Flat, a day-use area on the banks
of the river.
In spring this is the put-in spot for kayakers
and canoeists. It’s an idyllic location any time,
with white cliffs rising from the opposite bank,
gouged with scores of crevasses and caves. Tree-lined
banks shelter an array of wildlife, includ-ing
Sonoran mud turtles, beavers and river otters.
Swimmers and picnickers swarm the grounds
during summer, when the mercury punches
through the top of the thermometer with a
blood-red fist. In autumn, a sense of tranquility
settles over the waterside nook, radiant with
fall color. Too bad all dead-end roads don’t reach
such joyous conclusions.
The cool greens
of summer give
way to golden
trees in the
the open terrain
along Salt Mine
SALT MINE ROAD Figura-tively
speaking, dead ends
are rarely ideal. In this case,
you can throw that kind of
thinking out the car window.
BY ROGER NAYLOR
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF K IDA
Note: Mileages are approximate.
LENGTH: 11 miles one-way
DIRECTIONS: From Phoenix, drive north on Interstate 17
for 87 miles to State Route 260 (Exit 287). Turn right
(east) onto SR 260 and continue for 2.8 miles to Salt
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None, accessible to all vehicles
WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be
aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of
water. Don’t travel alone and let someone know where
you are going and when you plan to return.
INFORMATION: Verde Ranger District, 928-567-4121 or
Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial
511 to get information
on road closures, construction,
delays, weather and more.
O N L I N E For more drives in Arizona, visit our “Scenic Drives Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
READING: For more
scenic drives, pick
up a copy of our
book, The Back
Roads. Now in its
fifth edition, the
features 40 of the
state’s most scenic
drives. To order
a copy, call 800-
543-5432 or visit
S T A R T H E R E
P R E S C O T T
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
C O C O N I N O
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T Salt Mine
Salt Mine Road
V E R D E V A L L E Y
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month OF THE
if you’ve been thinking of hiking the Matterhorn, but
only have enough gas money to get to Flagstaff, head
to the Inner Basin. This scenic wonder in the San Fran-cisco
Peaks is Arizona’s own little version of the Alps,
and the hike that takes you there is as good as it gets
when autumn rolls around. It’s spectacular in the spring
and summer, but fall is the best time of year for explor-ing
what was once the inside of an ancient volcano. The
amber explosion of the aspens is incredible.
The trail begins at Lockett Meadow, which is also
home to one of the best campgrounds in the state. Are
you noticing a theme here? Despite its popularity, every-thing
about this area is picturesque
and peaceful. It’s grassy and green, and
if you happen to be in the right place
at the right time, you might even see
one of the resident porcupines, elk or
black bears, the latter of which have
been known to stroll right through a
group of picnickers without so much as
a glance at their picnic baskets. Clearly,
they don’t run with Yogi.
From the campground, the trail
climbs gradually through a forest of
ponderosa pines and aspens. Although
John Hancock never hiked this trail or
left his mark, many others have, includ-ing
“Paco Lalastra Santaner,” who
carved his name in an innocent aspen in
The trees are covered with carvings,
some old, some new, some are hard to
tell. The common denominator is that
every one of those knife-wielding numb-skulls
committed a crime. That includes
you, “JC (8/16/09).” Don’t make the same
mistake. Also, don’t become so preoc-cupied
with reading the graffiti that you
miss the bigger picture. Instead, see the
forest and the trees.
Among the most impressive are
the seven aspens you’ll see clumped
together about 30 minutes into the hike.
They’re off to the right, just past the
gate you’ll pass through. A few minutes
later, you’ll start to feel the forest open
up a little, and you’ll come to a major
intersection. To the left is the route to
Schultz Pass Road; to the right is an access road to the
Bear Jaw and Abineau trails. There’s also an old green
shed here with a yellow Forest Service sign that reads:
“Snow-Survey Shelter, Do Not Molest.” The shed is used by
rangers who measure snowfall in the winter.
From this point, the Inner Basin is less than a half-mile
away. But before you get there, you’ll pass a log pump
house that shields a well that was drilled in 1971. Because
the Inner Basin provides water for the city of Flagstaff,
there are several pump houses in the area. This one goes
down 485 feet.
Beyond the well, the trail merges with an old Jeep road
that takes you the rest of the way. It’s wide enough that
you and three of your closest friends could skip, side-by-side,
à la Dorothy, the Scarecrow, the Tin Man and the
Cowardly Lion. The wizard won’t be waiting at the end
of the trail, but Mother Nature surely will. As you’ll see,
there’s no place like the Inner Basin. With its lush mead-ows
and the surrounding summits of the San Francisco
Peaks, you’ll forget all about the Matterhorn.
LENGTH: 4 miles round-trip
ELEVATION: 8,600 to 9,400 feet
DIRECTIONS: From Flagstaff, go north on U.S. Route
89 for 12 miles and, just past the Sunset Crater
entrance, turn left onto Forest Road 420. Continue on
the dirt road and follow the signs to Lockett Meadow
Campground; the trailhead is well-marked.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None, accessible to all
DOGS ALLOWED: Yes, but dogs must be leashed, and
they’re not allowed above the watershed cabin.
USGS MAP: Humphreys Peak
INFORMATION: Peaks Ranger District, 928-526-0866
• Plan ahead and be prepared.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly and pack
out your trash.
• Leave what you find.
• Respect wildlife and minimize impact.
• Be considerate of others.
groves are a high-light
of the Inner
BELOW: A Lockett
Meadow pond in
the San Francisco
Peaks reflects the
INNER BASIN TRAIL There are
other hikes that’ll lead you to fall
color, but this one just might be
BY ROBERT STIEVE
O N L I N E For more hikes in Arizona, visit our “Hiking Guide” at www.arizonahighways.com.
S A N F R A N C I S C O P E A K S
C O C O N I N O
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
K A C H I N A P E A K S
W I L D E R N E S S
S U N S E T C R A T E R V O L C A N O
N A T I O N A L M O N U M E N T
T R A I L H E A D
56 s e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 0
Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location featured above and e-mail your answer to
email@example.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix,
AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be
chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by September 15, 2010. Only the winner will be notified.
The correct answer will be posted in our November issue and online at www.arizonahighways.com beginning October 15.
July 2010 Answer:
our winner, Bill
BY JODI C ISMAN
its doors in
1928, it was the
in Arizona at
208 feet. In
268 feet when
it built a radio
tower on its
rooftop. In its
heyday, this site
John F. Ken-nedy,
speech on its
Says ... PHOTOGRAPH COMMISSIONED BY THE CITY OF PHOENIX OFFICE OF CULTURAL AFFAIRS
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