E SC A P E . EX P LOR E . EX P E R I ENCE
THE RIGHT WAY TO
IN GREEN VALLEY:
ARE THEY NUTS?
A WESTERN TALE
Where to See Wildflowers!
◗ A horned lark appears proud to display its
namesake feature. | BRUCE D. TAUBERT
FRONT COVER Yellow brittlebush dots the hill-sides
of Canyon Lake as the morning sun peeks
over the hill. | GEORGE STOCKING
BACK COVER A prickly poppy, also known as a
“cowboy’s fried egg,” shows off its “yellow”
against its “white.” | PAUL GILL
03.11 Grand Canyon
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2 EDITOR’S LETTER
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
5 THE JOURNAL
People, places and things from around the state,
including a profile of 90-year-old Lorraine Shankwitz,
one of the original Harvey Girls; a look at Arizona’s first
decade as a state; and The Nature Conservancy’s
18 WILDFLOWERS 2011
Every March we dedicate about a dozen pages to desert
wildflowers. This year, we’ve added even more. By all
means, enjoy our annual portfolio, but if you really want
to see lupines and larkspurs, you’ll need to go beyond
the two dimensions of this magazine. For that, we offer
10 hikes that’ll get you within smelling distance.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL GILL & GEORGE STOCKING
HIKES BY JODI CISMAN
36 THE LUCKY SPURS
A true story about a rancher, a treasure chest, a set
of spurs and a table full of cowboys, including a blood
relative of the rancher and a surly character named
Dink. If this story hadn’t really happened, you’d think
it originated in the mind of Cormac McCarthy.
AN ESSAY BY J.P.S. BROWN
ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRAD HOLLAND
40 ARE THEY NUTS?
As if planting cotton fields and orange groves in
Arizona weren’t strange enough, the Walden family
went even further out on the limb and planted pecan
trees. Although a nut farm is the last thing you’d expect
to see in the desert, the Waldens boast the largest
irrigated pecan orchard in the world.
BY NIKKI BUCHANAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICHARD MAACK
44 HOME BREW
When the Arizona Brewing Co. began bottling beer in
1933, it seemed unlikely that a local shop could outsell
the big boys such as Budweiser and Schlitz. But with
the introduction of A-1, its flagship brand, that’s exactly
what happened. Although the brewery eventually dried
up, the brand is being resurrected in Tucson, and the
A-1 faithful couldn’t be happier.
BY KATHY MONTGOMERY
46 OFF THE ROAD
Although Kerouac was preoccupied with being on
the road, off-roading is what’s hip today. Off-highway
driving, which generates $4 billion annually for the
state’s economy, is one of the fastest-growing leisure
activities in Arizona. That’s good news for the bottom
line, but the increasing traffic is putting extreme
pressure on public lands.
BY KATHY MONTGOMERY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KERRICK JAMES
52 SCENIC DRIVE
Alamo Dam Road: On a list of unlikely places to see
water and wildflowers, this drive might be at the top.
54 HIKE OF THE MONTH
Chillicut Trail: The Superstitions get most of the atten-tion
when it comes to wildflowers, but there are other
options, including the east side of Four Peaks.
56 WHERE IS THIS?
2 m a r c h 2 0 1 1
a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 3
Whether he’s shooting on foot, horseback, raft or kayak, pho-tographer
Kerrick James knows how to capture the perfect
shot. “I love the natural world and adventure, and combining
those with the medium of photography has been my lifelong
love, if not obsession,” he says. James studied photography
at Arizona State University in the late 1970s, roaming Ari-zona
for inspirational shots. “My favorite spot is the Grand
Canyon, which just barely edges out Monument Valley and
Emerald Cave,” he says. This month, James took to the red
rocks of Sedona to shoot off-road vehicles (see Off the Road, page 46). James’ work has
also appeared in National Geographic.
Getting down in the dirt with things that bite, sting and poke is all in a day’s work for
photographer Paul Gill, who specializes in nature photography. Through the use of his
trademark macrophotography skills and his keen eye for detail, Gill, along with photog-rapher
George Stocking, explores an array of wildflowers for this month’s cover story
and brings to life a whole new world of color (see Wildflowers 2011, page 18). The Ari-zona
native also likes to shoot landscape images, which can be seen in Nature’s Best. Gill
is a regular contributor to Arizona Highways. — Interviewed by Allison Oswalt
Roaming the Petrified Forest and sunbathing at Woods
Canyon Lake are just a few favorite memories for writer
Jodi Cisman, whose Arizona roots run deep. “Forest Lakes
in Rim Valley is my favorite spot in Arizona, because my
grandfather built a cabin there 40 years ago,” she says.
Cisman is no novice when it comes to exploring the desert
landscape, and she often seeks out some of the state’s hid-den
gems. For this month’s issue, Cisman researched the
best trails for seeing spring wildflowers (see Wildflowers
2011, page 18). When she isn’t busy writing for Arizona Highways or West Valley Magazine,
Cisman enjoys solo travel.
joseph Brown isn’t your average Joe. Not because he’s been a boxer, Marine, jour-nalist,
cattle trader, rancher, prospector, movie wrangler and whiskey smuggler.
And not because his first novel, Jim Kane, was made into the movie Pocket Money,
which starred Paul Newman and Lee Marvin. Or that his book The Forests of the Night
was described as “the finest novel ever written in our region.” What makes J.P.S.
Brown so remarkable is that at the age of 80, he’s still cranking out some of the best
writing you’ll ever get your hands on.
The Lucky Spurs is the latest example, and we almost didn’t get it. Initially, Joe and I
were working together on a news profile, but it fell through.
I was disappointed. I wanted Joe’s writing in the magazine.
“That’s not my kind of story, anyway,” he reassured me. “I write about our cowboy,
horse and cattle traditions. I started writing for [Editor] Raymond Carlson in the
October 1970 edition of Arizona Highways, with a story titled Cowboy 1970. I can give
you something like that if you want.”
The answer was yes, of course, and about two days later he sent over The Lucky
Spurs. It’s a wonderful essay about Joe’s grandmother, a pair of spurs and an encoun-ter
he had at the Montezuma Hotel in Nogales. “The lounge was dark, but a corner
booth was full of old-timers I soon recognized,” Joe writes. “One was Paul Summers,
my father. The others were Dink Parker, Joe Kane and Lonnie Hunt. I was overcome
with a feeling of good fortune — I had not seen my flesh-and-blood father since the
fall of 1952.”
The story, despite being true, reads like a fictional tale from the mind of Cormac
McCarthy. It’s that good, and as you read it, you’ll feel as if you’re in the same room
with the dusty cowboys at the old wooden booth. Although Joe never mentions what
the old-timers were drinking, whiskey was certainly in the mix, and the chaser
might have been bottles of A-1 Pilsner. Back then, it was the beer of choice in Ari-zona,
and for decades, it even outsold Budweiser, Pabst and Schlitz. Unfortunately,
A-1 started to slip after aggressive pricing by Coors and a lawsuit by Anheuser-
Busch, which alleged that the eagle on the A-1
logo was too similar to its own. Although the
Phoenix-based brewery eventually dried up, the
brand is being resurrected, thanks to the Nimbus
Brewing Co. in Tucson.
In Home Brew, Kathy Montgomery tells the
story of Arizona’s legendary beer and its prog-eny,
which, according to our staff, really hits the
spot, whether you’re finishing up a cattle drive in
Nogales, a four-wheel-drive adventure in Sedona
(see Off the Road, page 46) or a wildflower hike in
the desert. The latter is the focus of this month’s
In all, we dedicate 18 pages to the annual
explosion of desert wildflowers. The photos are
impressive, but the best way to see the flowers is
out on the trail. To get you started, our portfolio
includes 10 of our favorite spring hikes. They’re
rated “E” for everyone. If that’s not enough, you
might want to pick up a copy of our new book,
Arizona Highways Hiking
Guide. It features 52 of
the state’s best trails —
one for each weekend
of the year, sorted by
It’s a book I’m proud
to have my name on, but
most of the credit goes
to the incredible team at
Arizona Highways, and also
to the friends and family
who skipped work and
tagged along on many of the hikes: Adam, Alli-son,
Amy, Beth, Jackson, Kelly, Leah, Lexi, Lily,
Maryal, Molly, Skip and Susan. Thank you.
As you’ll see, the book features some great
hikes and the best work of our best photogra-phers,
as well as the spectacular fine art of our
resident mapmaker, Kevin Kibsey. I wish I could
say the book is as beautifully written as an essay
by J.P.S. Brown, but it’s not. Still, it’ll come in
handy for anyone who feels the need to get off the
couch once in a while, and the hikes inside are
an excellent way to work up a thirst. Any excuse
for an A-1.
ROBERT STIEVE, editor
If you like what you see in this
magazine every month, check
out Arizona Highways Television,
an Emmy Award-winning pro-gram
hosted by former news
anchor Robin Sewell. For broad-cast
times, visit our website,
click the Arizona Highways Televi-sion
link on our home page.
ARIZONA HIGHWAYS TV
Follow me on Twitter: www.twitter.com/azhighways.
Cowboys, Cold Beer
and Hitting the Trails
MA R C H 2 0 1 1 V O L . 8 7, N O. 3
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Letters to the Editor
2039 W. Lewis Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85009
JANICE K. BREWER
Director, Department of Transportation
JOHN S. HALIKOWSKI
Arizona Transportation Board
ROBERT M. MONTOYA
WILLIAM J. FELDMEIER
FELIPE ANDRES ZUBIA
BARBARA ANN LUNDSTROM
VICTOR M. FLORES
STEPHEN W. CHRISTY
KELLY O. ANDERSON
BY ROBERT STIEVE
OF ARIZOnA’S BEST dAY
HIkES FOR WInTER, SPRIng,
SuMMER & FALL 52
4 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 5
letters to the editor
IN SO MANY WORDS
In your Editor’s Letter [December
2010], you expressed thanks for the
letter that asked for more prose, but
if the old saw about a picture being
worth 1,000 words has any cred-ibility,
then you have produced a
34,000-word masterpiece with your
December issue. I got my first look at
Arizona in 1952 and wanted to live
here ever since. We finally made it
in 2004, and I’ve been thankful
every day. Arizona has such a
wide variety of beauty that dur-ing
any season you can go to any
special spot and just wallow
in the beauty that’s there. Your
“hikes” and “drives” sections
have provided much pleasure,
and I can’t think of anyplace
else where, if the fish aren’t bit-ing,
I don’t care, I can just look
around and enjoy. By the way,
my word count above doesn’t include
the front and back covers. The front
is worth at least 5,000 all by itself.
Thank you for a wonderful job. Now
back to the prose.
DALE A. SCHONMEYER, SURPRISE, ARIZONA
Your December 2010 issue was abso-lutely
gorgeous. I particularly liked
the comments from the photogra-phers.
That was the best.
SALLY GILLILAN, TUCSON
I think I could fill a whole page about
your wonderful magazine, describing
my feelings after seeing the marvel-ous
scenic photos in your December
2010 issue. I recently spent two
fantastic weeks with dear friends in
Green Valley, who have been send-ing
me Arizona Highways for several
years. We visited Sedona, the Grand
Canyon, Prescott (in particular the
restored Elks Opera House) and
Mission San Xavier del Bac, to name
but a few. All quite breathtaking!
Thank you, Arizona.
BUCKDEN, CAMBRIDGESHIRE, ENGLAND
ON THE TRAIL
The author of Riding the Rez [November
2010] mentioned that the original
Santa Fe Trail went through the
Navajo Reservation. The Santa Fe
Trail went from Missouri to Santa Fe
and ended there.
LEE WINSLOW, FLAGSTAFF
EDITOR’S NOTE: Good catch. Thanks for steering us
in the right direction. The route that goes through
Kayenta, Arizona, is part of the original (Armijo)
branch of the Old Spanish Trail.
ANGLING FOR CHANGE
I’ve written to you in the past about
some minor corrections that were
needed in your magazine, but now
you’ve gone too far. I used to be a pro-fessional
photographer. I was cer-tainly
not as good as yours, but I have
a pet peeve, which applies to many
publications, that’s exemplified on
pages 10 and 11 of the November 2010
issue. Both pages contain excellent
photos of buildings. The one on page
11 is very well done. But the one on
page 10 has been tilted about 20
degrees off the horizontal. Why? For
no reason other than to make it a lit-tle
different. When you have a photo
that’s worthy of publication, don’t
ruin it by giving it an artificial tilt
that adds absolutely nothing to the
appeal of the photo, but simply
annoys the viewer. I implore you to
do away with this pseudo-photo-graphic
trick, print level photos on
the level, and don’t resort to editorial
pseudo-license to ruin good photos.
Please, keep up the good work and do
away with the bad.
CHUCK ROBINOVE, MONUMENT, COLORADO
Craig Childs’ article [Hearing
Voices, October 2010] is very
effective at creating images in
the reader’s mind. Visions of
stone tool-making remnants,
potsherds, arrowheads, corn-cobs
and other archaeological
artifacts were well-described
in his story. However, I was
very disappointed that the story did
not say how important it is for every-one
to leave such artifacts where they
are found and to not remove them. All
of these artifacts, and the locations
where they are found, are crucial
to archaeologists’ understanding of
earlier cultures. Federal law protects
these artifacts and makes it unlawful
to remove them.
DR. JONATHAN UPCHURCH,
GRAND CANYON, ARIZONA
EDITOR’S NOTE: Excellent point, Dr. Upchurch.
Although we’d like to think it goes without saying,
we understand that’s not the case. We should have
included the warning. Thanks for pointing it out.
If you have
we’d love to hear
from you. We can
be reached at
by mail at 2039
W. Lewis Avenue,
85009. For more
On March 18, 2011, Theodore Roosevelt
Dam will celebrate its 100th birthday.
Located northeast of Phoenix, the
dominating structure was once the tall-est
masonry dam in the world; a recent
renovation added another 444,000
cubic yards of concrete — enough to
pave a two-lane highway from Phoenix
to Tucson. Information: www.srpnet.com/
people > lodging > photography > centennial > dining > nature > things to do > > > > THE JOURNAL 03.11
SALT RIVER PROJECT
6 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 7
THE JOURNAL > people
— Dave Pratt is the author of
Behind the Mic: 30 Years in Radio
WHEN LORRAINE SHANKWITZ left her
Chicago home and boarded
a Santa Fe Railway train in
1938, she didn’t know that
those tracks would lead her to the grandest
adventure of her life and into the pages of
In her 18-year-old mind, the West was as
untamed as the life she was leaving.
“There was a lot of friction between me
and my dad, and I just had to get away,”
the 90-year-old Phoenix resident says as
she recalls the day she headed to the train
depot in the Windy City.
“I said, ‘I want a ticket for as far West as
this money will take me,’ ” she says, refer-ring
to a $50 bundle she’d saved and hid-den
from her parents. “[The ticket agent]
counted the money, looked at the schedule,
and said it was Williams, Arizona.”
She was headed for the Wild West —
cactus, desert, open space, cowboys and
Indians — just like in the old black-and-white
films she’d grown up watching.
When Lorraine Shankwitz arrived in Williams, she had no idea
what a Harvey Girl was, but she quickly learned — firsthand —
and her Harvey Girl education helped make ends meet in
Arizona for decades to follow.
By RACHELLE SPARKS
Vassily Jirov, Boxer
When you’re not training or training other
fighters, where do you like to go in Arizona?
It’s hard to pick a favorite place, because no
matter the direction you go, and it doesn’t
matter how far, you will find beauty in the
mountains, the lakes, anywhere. Arizona is a
different part of the world, especially in the
wintertime. If you want to experience the
cold, you can just jump in the car and drive an
hour and a half and be in Flagstaff. Then you
can come back to Phoenix and walk around
Your career has taken you all over the world.
What’s the most common question people
ask about Arizona?
People usually ask me why I chose to live here
in Arizona. I was born in a place — Kazakh-stan
— that’s a desert with great beauty.
Arizona’s desert is the same. You can see a
lot of different colors and things here.
Hiking in Arizona is akin to Rocky running the
steps in Philadelphia. Where do you like to
take a hike?
I love Camelback Mountain, and I’m there a
lot. Besides being a great place to work out, it
really is a place to get away from life. It keeps
your mind sharp.
If you were trying to convince Sugar Ray
Leonard that Arizona is a knockout, what
would you tell him?
I’d tell him that if he came here for six months,
he’d be at a loss for words. The best times to
visit are in the spring and fall, and he’d love
it. I’d tell him to just come here and see for
himself why Arizona is one of the best places
in the country.
■ Vassily Jirov teaches a weekly children’s boxing
clinic at Koncrete Gym in Scottsdale. Information:
480-656-6308 or www.koncretegym.com.
“I was very much in love with Hoot
Gibson and Tom Mix and all the rest of
’em,” she laughs with giddy, girl-like recol-lection.
After five days and six nights, the steady
chug of the train slowed and crept to a halt
amid breathtaking, white-tipped ranges.
“There were mountains all around me
— and snow,” Shankwitz says. “I thought,
‘I got off at the wrong stop and the train is
long gone. What am I going to do?’ ”
The question thrills Shankwitz as
much today as it did when she was 18. “I’ve
always loved to see what’s on the other side
of the mountain,” she says thoughtfully.
SHE HAD NO MONEY, no plans, nowhere
to stay, and the solution to her woes was
as unexpected as the mountain ranges
that surrounded her. Through the flurries
she saw a white, pillared building alive
with the sound of chatter and the clinking
“And, oh, I needed food,” Shankwitz
laughs lightly at the memory, a fragile
hand resting gently on her stomach.
“I picked up my traveling bag, went
inside and looked around,” she continues.
“I thought, Hmmm, there are waitresses here.”
Little did she know that those wait-resses
were actually Harvey Girls, the
pretty faces of the newly civilized West.
“I didn’t know anything about Harvey
Girls,” she says. “If I’d known, I could have
ridden in style, free meals, the whole bit.”
Entrepreneur Fred Harvey had begun
opening high-class restaurants and hotels
in the small towns that lined the tracks of
the Santa Fe Railway in the late 1800s. He
served passengers on fine china and white
Ads in newspapers across the country
sought young, educated, attractive women
to serve as waitresses in these elegant
establishments, and while they flocked
out West in first class, Shankwitz landed
by accident and by chance. The manager
of the Fray Marcos Harvey House saw her
potential and hired her on the spot.
Shankwitz settled into her second-story
room, learned the ropes of maintain-ing
the Harvey Girl image — “Oh, were
they strict” — and went to work.
“Every day we came down, and the
manager inspected our fingernails, our
hair, the seams in our silk stockings,” she
recalls, describing the starched, high-collared
black-and-white uniforms the
For $15 a week, plus room and board,
they polished silverware, buffed imported
china and folded monogrammed napkins.
“When ranchers and railroaders walked
through the doors, we catered to them,”
she says. “We belonged to them, no matter
what, even for a 10-cent piece of pie and a
nickel cup of coffee.”
Smiles and manners were served with
each meal, but in addition, she says, “We
were supposed to be such goody-good girls
at that time. In front of the patrons, we
were goody-two-shoes, but then we took
the hairnets off and let our hair down.”
Wild nights on the town involved
sneaking out their windows and joining
local boys for evenings of playing music in
the depot, building campfires and horse-back-
She pauses, takes a deep breath and
closes her eyes.
“Oh, how I wish I could go back to
Shankwitz worked as a Harvey Girl
for a year before heading back to Chicago
when her mother became ill. But Arizona
never left her mind, and neither did the
grand adventure that brought her to the
Ten years later, she reconnected with
her adventurous 18-year-old self and said
to her son, “Frank, honey, we’re going to
She packed their station wagon and,
once again, with no plans and no place
to stay, headed West. They wound up in
Seligman, “fell in love with that shanty
town,” and stayed for four years before
moving to Prescott.
She made ends meet the only way she
knew how — serving in small-town
motels and cafés with Harvey Girl style —
before moving to Phoenix, where she still
lives, more than 70 years after her first trip
Most Harvey Houses across the country
have either been demolished or turned
into historical sites or museums. Shank-witz
says that very few Harvey Girls
remain, and she is glad to be among them.
A girlish grin creeps across her face as
she recalls the life she’s lived. “I’m so glad I
lived in that era,” she says.
P R A T T ’ S Q&A
THE JOURNAL > people
P H O E N I X
8 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 9
In a Favorable Light
When it comes to shooting wildflowers and desert flora,
the right lighting can be just as important
as finding the right burst of blooms.
By JEFF KIDA, photo editor
IN THE MOVIE TOMBSTONE — the 1993 version starring Val Kilmer — Charlton Heston
plays Henry Hooker, a wealthy rancher who gives refuge to Doc Holliday while Wyatt Earp
rides off for an epic showdown with Johnny Ringo. In real life, Henry Hooker was a wealthy
rancher who bought a chunk of land originally homesteaded by Glendy King. King was a
pioneer, and also an entrepreneur of sorts. His most notorious vision was to
open a spa on his land in the early 1880s, which he did. As unlikely as a spa
in the middle of nowhere in the days of Geronimo might sound, the property
included a natural hot spring, which was enough to draw people in. However, as in all good
Westerns, King was eventually gunned down and his homestead fell into the hands of
Today, the Hooker Hot Springs are still enjoyed by guests who make their way to Mule-shoe
Ranch, which is a cooperative management area owned by The Nature Conservancy,
the Bureau of Land Management, Coronado National Forest and some private landowners.
Although each of them work together to conserve and enhance this unique ecosystem, it’s
The Nature Conservancy that serves as host of the property, which sits on 50,000 acres of
magnificent Mother Nature that ranges from riparian desert at the lower elevations to pine
forests in the Galiuro Mountains.
In addition to the postcard panoramas, the preserve protects seven permanently flowing
streams, and the combined 12 miles of running water provides some of the best remaining
aquatic habitat in the Southwest. That water, of course, attracts wildlife, including deer,
squirrels, coatimundis, javelinas,
foxes, coyotes, six species of hum-mingbirds,
seven species of owls,
and 14 species of hawks and eagles.
It attracts humans, as well, and the
lucky ones get to spend the night in
one of Muleshoe’s five casitas.
Any of the rustic rooms will
work, but the best option is the
Stone Cabin, which stands alone
on the north end of the visitors
center. It looks like something
you’d see in Little House on the
Prairie, but that’s not the reason to
book it. Book it because it offers
more privacy and closer access to
the hiking trails. Plus, coatimundis
have been known to stroll past
the front door. Inside, things are
basic: a double bed in an alcove off
of the living room, a double futon
in the living room, a full bath and
a kitchen. It’s not much, but it’s
enough. You’ll see.
The other four casitas surround
a grassy courtyard on the opposite
end of the visitors center — it’s
a great place to mingle with fel-low
explorers. The smallest of the courtyard
casitas is the Chulo Casita, which is set up
like a studio apartment; the bed, kitchenette
and dining area are all in the same room. Like
all of the casitas, the Chulo has a full, private
bath. At the other end of the size spectrum is
the King Casita. As the name implies, it’s the
largest casita, and it includes a bedroom with
a queen bed, a double futon in the living room,
and a kitchen. The Cypress and Forrestine
rooms are somewhere in between. If you have
a choice, opt for the Forrestine — it comes
with a small fireplace.
Whichever room you end up in, it’ll be
secondary to the surrounding scenery, the
22 miles of hiking/equestrian trails and the
Hooker Hot Springs. Although the ranch is
open to day hikers and other adventurers, the
springs are for overnight guests only. Like
everything else at the ranch, the setup is a
little rustic — hot water is piped directly into
two tubs made of corrugated metal — but it’s
pretty impressive for the middle of nowhere,
and you can bet
Glendy King and
Muleshoe Ranch is located 30
miles northeast of Willcox. For
specific directions and more
information, call 520-212-4295
or visit www.nature.org/arizona.
A CLOSER LOOK
If you’re considering
there are at least three
To test the water and
not break the bank, try
buying an inexpensive
set of close-up filters,
which are threaded
onto the front of an
existing lens to de-crease
distance. It’s a
good option, but your
photos won’t be as
tack-sharp as with the
other two. The second
option includes expen-sive
which can be placed
between your existing
lens and the camera
body. Tubes give
sharper results than
close-up filters. The
best option, however,
is a macro lens. They
come in a variety of
focal lengths — from
60 mm to 200 mm —
and are designed to
be extremely sharp at
the closest focusing
THEJOURNAL > photography
THE JOURNAL > lodging
IN GOOD YEARS, ONE of the best spots to capture images of desert wildflowers is
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Photographer Robert McDonald enjoys
creating photographs of the area and notes that, each year, the wildflower bloom
differs. As a result, it’s important to keep your eyes open and make the best of
what’s in front of you. “My wife and I were camping in Organ Pipe, and I saw this
spot one afternoon,” McDonald says. “I knew it would look pretty good when the
sun rose the next morning. I think it’s an intriguing image when chollas surround a
flowering plant. Backlighting really makes those chollas glow, and placing the hori-zon
high in the frame allows the foreground to be the focus.”
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument | ROBERT MCDONALD
W I L L C O X
O N L I N E For more lodging in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/travel/lodging.asp.
Look for our book, Arizona
Guide, available at book-stores
O N L I N E
For more photography
tips, visit www.arizona
Anyplace associated with The Nature Conservancy is going to be a scenic
wonder, but throw in some natural hot springs and it gets even better.
Exhibit No. 1: Muleshoe Ranch.
By ROBERT STIEVE
10 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 11
IF CONGRESS EXPECTED ARIZONA to sit
quietly after being admitted to the Union
in 1912, it quickly discovered that the 48th
state wasn’t about to be a wallflower.
Just nine months after Arizona cel-ebrated
its new status, it showed Wash-ington
who was boss. Although voters had
mollified politicians in the nation’s capital
by removing the recall of judges from the
Thanks to some legislative trailblazing and a
few good men, Arizona proved itself a contender
during its first decade of statehood.
By JANA BOMMERSBACH
state constitution, those same voters reinstated the provision the
first chance they got. The November 1912 election also bucked
Washington by giving women the right to vote, a full eight years
before the 19th Amendment was passed nationwide.
Arizona also surprised the rest of the nation by leading the
movement against “demon rum” with the first statewide prohibi-tion
against alcohol. That occurred in 1914, six years before the
18th Amendment was passed. The prohibition vote in Arizona was
considered shocking for a state where the saloon was sacred.
Meanwhile, the new state’s value to the nation became clear
during World War I, when Arizona’s vast cotton crops proved
invaluable. The state also sent more men per capita to the war
than any other state in the Union. One of the lesser-known facts
about WWI is that Arizona was among the reasons the United
States went to war — a coded message known as the Zimmer-mann
Telegram revealed that Germany was trying to entice
Mexico to join the German cause by promising a return of Ari-zona
as a victory gift.
Back home, two Democrats were dominating the landscape: Ari-zona’s
first governor, George W.P. Hunt, and Carl Hayden, the latter
of whom went to Congress in 1912, and later the Senate, and stayed
until his retirement in 1968, giving him the second-longest tenure
in the history of the nation. Barry Goldwater, who was 3 years old
when Arizona became a state, succeeded Hayden in the Senate.
Hayden, who was a water reclamation expert and the father of
the Central Arizona Project, would become the single most impor-tant
figure in shaping Arizona’s growth from the Wild West to a
modern state. One newspaper wrote that so many other congress-men
owed Hayden favors that they’d probably vote to give Arizona
a navy if he asked for it. That said, Hayden didn’t think of himself
as a speechifying kind of guy — he was more of a “work horse”
than a “show horse.”
Despite the state’s many accomplishments in its first decade, Ari-zona
most astonished the nation with
its incredible population growth. The
East had long feared that nobody
would ever want to move to the desert
state. In fact, when the last Territorial
Governor, Richard Sloan, predicted in
1909 that Arizona would soon “sup-port
a population of well over 200,000
people,” Easterners hooted in disbelief.
But the Territory reached that number
by 1910 and never looked back. While
the population increased by 66 percent
between 1900 and 1910, it grew an
additional 63 percent by 1920, reaching
a population of 335,000.
As its first decade came to a close,
Arizona was showing America that it
hadn’t seen anything yet.
THEJOURNAL > centennial THEJOURNAL > centennial
EDITOR’S NOTE: In Febru-ary
2012, Arizona will
celebrate 100 years of
statehood, and Arizona
Highways will publish a
special Centennial is-sue.
Leading up to that
milestone, we’ll present a
10-part history of the state
covering a different decade
each month. This is Part 1.
ARIZONA: THEN & NOW
CROWDS TURNED OUT IN droves on February 14, 1912, for Arizona State-hood
Day. In Prescott, people packed the town plaza for the planting of the
Statehood Tree (above). Elsewhere around the state, railroad whistles, dyna-mite
blasts, cannon shots, bells and sirens sounded in universal celebration.
At 10:23 a.m., a telegraph in Phoenix clicked out the official message from
President William H. Taft: “I have this morning signed the proclamation
Tennis aficionados enjoyed a lighted court declaring Arizona to be a state.”
at Morenci in 1915. | ARIZONA HISTORICAL
Headlines from The Arizona Republican,
1 9 1 2 - 1 9 2 1
February 14, 1912
“Arizona Will Don the Garb
of Statehood: Glorious Climax of
Long Fight Will Come
With Signing of
November 5, 1912
“Progressives on the Map of
Arizona: Strong Showing Made
by the Young and Vigorous Party
in the First Presidential Election
Held in the New State.”
November 25, 1914
“Coliseum Once More Favorite:
Original Vaudeville and Picture
House of Phoenix Reopens to
Capacity Audiences with Excel-lent
Acts and Pictures.”
June 19, 1915
“With Water and Wine the
Arizona is Formally Dedicated
to the Waves.” [The $13 million
battleship U.S.S. Arizona
is christened with a bottle of
the first water to flow over
Theodore Roosevelt Dam.]
December 24, 1915
“Seaport for Arizona May Be
Secured: Young Men’s Business
Association Takes up Campaign
to Annex Strip of Mexico.”
July 12, 1917
“Bisbee Summarily Deports
I.W.W. Agitators, Thousands
of Armed Citizens Round Up
Undesirables, Send Them on
Way to New Mexico.”
April 30, 1920
“Governor Will Be Chief Speaker
at Canyon Dedication.”
IN THE NEWS
NICK BEREZENKO ARIZONA HISTORICAL FOUNDATION
• The price of a first-class
was only 2 cents in
• In 1919, the price of a
matinee movie ticket
ranged from 10 to 20
cents per person.
• Between 1912 and
1921, the average price
of a brand-new road-ster
• In 1921, a 1-ounce bar
of Hershey’s choco-late
was 5 cents.
• The daily newspaper
cost only a penny.
12 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 13
THE JOURNAL > centennial THEJOURNAL > centennial
THE Y-CROSS RANCH, est. 1897
BY K ELLY K R AMER | P HOTOGR A PHS B Y S COTT B A XTER
EDITOR’S NOTE: “100 Years, 100
Ranchers” has been designated
an official Centennial Legacy
Project. Every month, we’ll be
featuring one of the ranchers.
It’s part of our own Centennial
coverage, which will continue
through February 2012. For
more information about “100
Years, 100 Ranchers,” visit
Although Sam Udall’s family has raised Hereford bulls and horses on
the Y-Cross Ranch in Eagar since 1897, Scott Baxter made this photograph
of Udall during an August 2005 ride along the bottom of the
Little Colorado River Canyon in Apache County. Notes from Baxter’s
journal speak to the friendship between the two men, as well as the
influence Udall has had on Baxter’s children, Lily and Creighton:
“Sam — friend,” Baxter writes. “Lily and Creighton first
rode with Sam. Sam gave Lily her first
roping dummy for her 11th
14 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 15
THEJOURNAL > nature
SOMETIMES, IT’S THE SIMPLEST things in life that are the sweetest. Like sitting down on
a quiet morning and leisurely noshing on a warm, home-cooked breakfast. But when cal-endars
and cell phones and the everyday dramas of adulthood get in the way, buttermilk
pancakes, fresh fruit and steaming maple sausages are often replaced by rabid
caffeine hunts and handfuls of dry cereal plucked straight from the box.
Enter the breakfast-lover’s salvation: Red Rock Café, a veritable rehab for
those who’ve fallen prey to the morning fast-food meal routine. It’s the fix you’re looking
for, and fittingly, it’s nestled in the mother of all healing havens: Sedona.
“Our motto at the Red Rock Café is ‘Food so good, you’ll plan your day around it,’ ” says
owner Kathy French. “And we stand by it every day.” Productivity junkies may scoff at the
notion of planning a scenic Sedona adventure around something like hash browns and
home fries, but that’s just the addiction talking. French and her husband, Bill, are ready to
stage an intervention.
So, instead of throwing on the backpack at 4:05 a.m., cutting off little old ladies and
trampling small children in an effort to hit Slide Rock before the crowds, take the first
step toward recovery and allow yourself the indulgence of a quiet table at the Frenches’
“Our menu goal was to serve a variety of selections and make them home-cooked, just
like mom or grandma used to,” French explains.
Breakfast in Red
Most people head to Sedona for Mother Nature, but grandma’s
cooking is another good reason to go. Specifically, you’ll want
breakfast, and one of the best places to get it is the Red Rock Café.
By MARYAL MILLER
As you inhale a cornucopia of heavenly
aromas from the thick slices of cinnamon-sprinkled
french toast, plates of hearty
grilled corned beef hash tossed with bell
peppers, every variety of fresh veggie-and-cheese-
packed omelet imaginable, and
trays of colossal, hot, gooey cinnamon rolls,
don’t be surprised if you find yourself curl-ing
up in the fetal position and crying for
mama. Remember, you’re detoxing, and it
hurts so good.
If none of the above is enough to curb
your breakfast cravings, fear not, Red Rock
has a more powerful fix. A sweet sip of the
café’s popular 99-cent mimosa, along with
blue-corn huevos rancheros, Southwest-style
chicken-fried steak with sharp
cheddar cheese and scallions, and a build-your-
own breakfast burrito — all topped
with Red Rock’s special spicy Ranchero
sauce — should cleanse the senses. And
to ensure maximum impact, the friendly
café staff has been known to hug it out
Welcome to a
whole new you.
Red Rock Café is located at
100 Verde Valley School Road,
Suite 107, in Sedona. For more
information, call 928-284-
1441 or visit www.facebook.
THEJOURNAL > dining
Queen Elizabeth I fought off predators
(would-be suitors) so that she could
wear the crown herself. The queen in a game
of chess devastates opponents with super-powers
that only she possesses. And the
Queen butterfly, a member of the milkweed-eating
family of fluttering insects, keeps
predators at bay with her own set of defense
In most cases, insects avoid milkweeds
because the milky insides of the plants will
often glue a predator’s mouth shut, and the
plants’ poisons will turn away those intruders
that get past the sticky latex. But, according
to Ron Rutowski, an Arizona State University
biology professor, Queen caterpillars have
developed a system of biting the plants so
that the “milk” drains out, thus allowing the
insects to consume the plants and store their
poisons into adulthood. As a result, Queen
caterpillars, which are white with yellow
spots and black stripes and three pairs of
black prongs, emerge from their cocoons
with a built-in defense to fend off predators.
When birds and other animals try to eat
the adult Queens, they experience a putrid
taste that sometimes leads to vomiting. That
experience isn’t soon forgotten, and Queen
butterflies are typically left to flutter safely
throughout the southernmost parts of the
United States. But there’s more to a Queen
butterfly than its ability to outsmart milk-weed
plants and predators, and it’s related to
The only difference between males and
females is a small brown circle on each of the
lower wings of the males. Those circles come
into play during the species’ intricate mating
dance. According to Rutowski, that court-ship
is perhaps the most unique thing about
Queen butterflies. The males, he says, must
ingest alkaloids from certain plants, and then
transfer those alkaloids to females from tiny
hairs in the brown circles.
Although you may never witness this
unique courtship, Queen butterflies are
common in Arizona. According to Adriane
Grimaldi of the Central Arizona Butterfly
Association, they can be found near gardens
year-round — adults gather nourishment
from verbena and lantana plants — but their
numbers decrease in the coldest months of
winter, and Queens tend to avoid the mid-day
heat in the summer. They’re around, but
don’t get too attached to any one butterfly.
After royally outsmarting predators, Queens
live for only one or two months as adults.
Royal Pain Although Queen butterflies are regal and seemingly
delicate, looks can be deceiving. These fluttering insects have the ability
to inflict injury on would-be predators, and even make them sick.
By AMANDA FRUZYNSKI
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
The dark eyes of the white-breasted
nuthatch stand out against its unmarked
white face. Paired with a long, slightly
upturned bill, the combo makes this
inquisitive bird appear to be ready for
anything, but it doesn’t explain the bird’s
unusual behavior of creeping headfirst
down tree trunks in search of insects and
other foods. The nuthatch is a frequent
visitor to backyard feeders, where sun-flower
seeds, peanut butter mix, suet and
berries provide an avian feast.
BRUCE D. TAUBERT
O N L I N E For more dining in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/travel/dining.asp.
S E D O N A
16 m a r c h 2 0 1 1
Festival of Books
MA RCH 1 2- 1 3 TUCSON
The Third Annual Tucson Festival of Books
will be even more exciting this year, as more
than 450 authors and presenters are sched-uled
to attend the weekend event, which
takes place on the University of Arizona
campus. New festival draws include a special
e-book-only area, a children’s breakfast, a
character parade and a Green Eggs & Ham
brunch based on the works of Dr. Seuss.
Stagecoach Village Arts Festival
MA RCH 1 8 -2 0 CAV E CR E E K
Join some of the Southwest’s most accom-plished
fine artists and craftsmen for this
weekend event, which also features wine-tastings,
food-sampling and plenty of high
Sonoran Desert scenery, as well as live
music, artist demonstrations and a slew of
sculptures, paintings, glasswork and photography. Information: 623-
734-6526 or www.vermillionpromotions.com
TUCSON FESTIVAL OF BOOKS
YUMA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU
NOVEMB ER 1 1 S TAT EWI DE
America’s best idea just got better. This
month, the National Park Service cele-brates
Veteran’s Day with free admission
at participating parks and monuments.
Take advantage of this fee-free day at
more than 15 locations throughout Ari-zona,
including Chiricahua National Mon-ument,
Saguaro National Park and Walnut
Canyon National Monument. Information:
A PR I L 2 6 - 3 0 CAN YON D E CHE L LY & MONUMEN T VA L L E Y
Hosted by professional photographer Chuck Lawsen, this workshop
takes place among the dramatic landscapes of Monument Valley and
Canyon de Chelly. Ancient wind-swept mesas, rippled sand dunes
and iconic rock formations are the focus of the first part of this work-shop,
which includes two private Navajo-guided tours that will allow
participants to capture the remarkable subjects of Monument Valley.
Another guided tour at Canyon de Chelly will take participants to
Ancestral Puebloan ruins. Information: 888-790-7042 or www.friends
MARCH 1 1 - 1 3 Y UMA
Sure. Arizona is known for copper, citrus and cotton, but it’s also the Winter Lettuce Capital
of the World. This weekend festival takes place at Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Historic
Park, and showcases Yuma’s agricultural heritage through a variety of culinary festivities. This
year, celebrity chefs will attend, and cooking demonstrations will run throughout the weekend.
Information: 928-783-0071 or www.visityuma.com
MA RCH 1 -MAY 2 2 PHOENI X
The Phoenix Art Museum offers this
fashion-forward exhibit, which cele-brates
the unique style of sportswoman
and American tastemaker Ann Bonfoey
Taylor. Featuring more than 60 full
ensembles and accessories, the exhibit
pays homage to a woman admired
by renowned fashion editor Diana
Vreeland, who wrote, “I can remember
years ago when you were in a marvel-ously
creative mood, which has never
ceased, and you just wanted everything
and you just wanted everything to be
right.” Information: 602-257-1222 or
Friday Evening Star Talk Lecture Series
F R IDAY E V E N INGS A PACHE JUNCT ION
Amateur astronomer Bill Dellinges returns for the 14th year to present
his 45-minute astronomy lectures at Lost Dutchman State Park. Held
on Friday evenings in March at 7:30 p.m., the informal lectures include
information about constellations, star lore and interesting facts about
the night sky. Dellinges also provides a small telescope so participants
can explore the universe before or after the sessions. Information: 480-
982-4485 or www.azstateparks.com
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, TONI FRISSEL COLLECTION
THEJOURNAL > things to do
How I Spent My
Take a little piece of the desert home with you in an
Arizona-inspired pendant, exclusively at French on Main.
Designer/owner French Thompson provides an ever-changing
and plentiful array of the exotic, sure-to-be-noticed
work of award-winning artists in this jewel of a
jewelry store in downtown Scottsdale.
French Designer Jeweler
7148 E. Main Street, Scottsdale, AZ 85251
The art is magnificent. The entertainment is unexpect-ed.
The people watching is unsurpassed. It’s Scottsdale
ArtWalk — since 1976 one of the Valley’s greatest cul-tural
traditions — every Thursday from 7-9 pm.
scottsDale arts District
Bring your passion for life.®
Artistic Inspirations in Scottsdale
V i s i t S c o t t s d a l e L u x u r y E x p e r i e n c e . c o m o r c a l l 8 0 0 - 8 3 9 - 9 5 6 7 f o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n
March 17 - April 6: Merrill Mahaffey “Formations”
Artist’s Reception: Thursday, March 17, 7 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Merrill Mahaffey’s luminous paintings of the Grand
Canyon masterfully capture its sensuous beauty and
magical light. “Light is almost a poetic science to me,”
Mahaffey says. “I’ve studied light my whole life. There
isn’t a moment in the day that I’m not aware of where
the sun is.”
7100 E.Main St., Scottsdale AZ 85251
“River Architecture” 16” x 20” acrylic on canvas
Celebration of Fine Art
The Celebration of Fine Art is the place for art lovers and
artists to connect. 100 juried artists come from around
the country make the signature big white tents their tem-porary
home for 10 weeks each year. The relaxed atmo-sphere
and quality art work is sure to please any art lover.
celebration oF Fine art
January 15 through March 27, 2011
SE corner of Scottsdale Rd. and Mayo Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ
(just off the Loop 101 at Exit 34 in the big white tents)
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 19
W I L D F L O W E R S 2 0 1 1
Every March we dedicate
about a dozen pages to
desert wildflowers. This
year, we’ve added even
more. By all means, enjoy
our annual portfolio, but
if you really want to see
lupines and larkspurs,
you’ll need to go beyond
the two dimensions of this
magazine. You’re not on
your own, though. Along
with the colorful photos
you’ll see inside, we offer
10 hikes that’ll get you
within smelling distance.
Photographs by PAUL GILL & GEORGE STOCKING
Hikes by JODI CISMAN
18 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 To order a print of this photograph, call 866-962-1191 or visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com.
20 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 21
EDITOR’S NOTE: Because Mother
Nature has a mind of her own,
Arizona’s wildflower season varies
from year to year. Without winter
rain, spring color can be hit or miss.
At press time, we had no idea how
much rain we’d get — if any — but
by the time you read this, we’ll
have a much better idea. That’s
where our website comes in. For
the latest information on where to
find wildflowers, visit www.arizona
highways.com or pick up your
smart phone and scan this code. If
you haven’t used 2D bar code tech-nology,
here’s how to get started:
1. On your iPhone, down-load
the application called
Quickmark (for the Droid,
2. Launch the application and
position the barcode within the
viewfinder on your phone —
it’ll automatically connect you
BAJADA NATURE TRAIL |
McDowell Sonoran Preserve
The half-mile Bajada Nature
Trail is a relaxing, easy path
that’s mostly level and quite
broad. It takes about 30 min-utes
to hike the route, which
is ideal for hikers of all ages,
and it’s wheelchair-accessible.
The trail includes a self-guided
interpretive walk with identi-fication
signs. In addition to
wildflowers, many desert plants
can be seen on the trail, includ-ing
paloverde and mesquite
trees, several varieties of cholla
cactuses and saguaros. A free
trail guide is available at the
Directions: From Scottsdale,
drive north on State Route 101
to the Pima Road exit (Exit 36)
at Princess Drive and turn right.
Drive north to Legacy Boule-vard
and turn east when you
reach the dead end at Thomp-son
Peak Parkway. Turn south
and travel a half-mile to the
gateway trailhead, which will be
on the left.
Information: 480-998-7971 or
to See Wildflowers
PRECEDING PANEL: Dewdrops
clinging to a Mexican goldpoppy
refract the image of a saguaro
cactus. | PAUL GILL
ABOVE: At night or in cold, windy
weather, the goldpoppy closes its
leaves tightly. | PAUL GILL
right: Lupines and brittlebushes
dominate the hillsides above
Bartlett Lake. | GEORGE STOCKING
22 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 23
“I cannot pretend to be impartial about colors. I rejoice with the brilliant ones,
and am genuinely sorry for the poor browns.” — WINSTON CHURCHILL
24 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 25
CANYON LOOP TRAIL |
Catalina State Park
Canyon Loop is a scenic, mod-erate
hike along a well-marked
trail. Hikers will spot not only
cholla, prickly pear and saguaro
cactuses, but also marigolds,
poppies and lupines, all of which
make an appearance after
Directions: From Tucson, drive
north on Oracle Road for
approximately 13 miles to the
park entrance on the right.
Information: 520-628-5798 or
FOUR PEAKS WILDERNESS
AREA | Tonto National Forest
Four Peaks Wilderness Area,
with its four mountain peaks ris-ing
more than 7,600 feet above
sea level, is one of the most
recognizable landmarks in Ari-zona.
Because of the elevation,
a variety of flowers come to life
during peak seasons, including
hedgehog, saguaro and prickly
pear cactuses. The wilderness
area offers multiple wildflower-abundant
trails, including Cane
Spring Trail 77, Soldier Camp
Trail 83 and Brown’s Trail 133.
Another option is the Chillicut
Trail on the east side of the
range (see Hike of the Month,
Directions: From Mesa, drive
north on State Route 87 for
approximately 27 miles to Old
Bush Highway. Turn right and
continue north for approxi-mately
5 miles to Forest Road
143. Travel 3 miles to a fork in
the road, veer south on Forest
Road 401 and follow the signs to
Information: 602-225-5200 or
PRECEDING PANEL: Desert globemallow spreads profusely on Black
Mesa in the Mazatzal Mountains northeast of Phoenix. | PAUL GILL
ABOVE: White tackstem is a native Southwestern desert plant that
blooms after plentiful winter rains. | PAUL GILL
OPPOSITE PAGE: Banana yuccas bloom under rain clouds in the
Dragoon Mountains. | GEORGE STOCKING
to See Wildflowers
26 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 27
HUNTER TRAIL | Picacho Peak
A short, strenuous hike (4.2
miles round-trip) leads to the
summit of this isolated desert
peak, but along the way you’ll
be treated to blankets of pop-pies
and bursts of blooming
magenta hedgehog cactuses.
Expect short, steep sections
of trail that require hand-over-hand
climbing aided by steel
cables and handrails. When
you arrive at the summit, you’ll
be rewarded with 360-degree
views of the surrounding
Sonoran Desert. Picacho Peak
has been used as a navigational
landmark for centuries, and
it abounds with petroglyphs
from the prehistoric Hohokam
Directions: From Phoenix, drive
south on Interstate 10 to Pica-cho
Peak Road (Exit 219), turn
right and follow the signs to the
state park entrance.
Information: 520-466-3183 or
RED ROCK STATE PARK |
Red Rock State Park offers
a variety of trails and scenic
drives that take you into wild-flower
country. Just a few of the
flowers you’ll spot along the
trails are paintbrushes, penste-mons,
blackfoot daisies, lark-spurs
and Gooding’s verbenas.
Directions: From Uptown
Sedona, drive southwest on
State Route 89A for 5.8 miles
to lower Red Rock Loop Road,
turn left and continue 3 miles to
the entrance gate, which will be
on the right.
Information: 928-282-6907 or
ABOVE: Sego lily blossoms in the Mazatzal Mountains. | PAUL GILL
OPPOSITE PAGE: Three sego lilies nestle down with their magenta-colored
neighbors, strawberry hedgehog cactus blooms. | PAUL GILL
To order a print of this photograph (left), call 866-962-1191 or visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com.
to See Wildflowers “Colors are the smiles of nature.” — LEIGH HUNT
28 m a r c h 2 0 1 1
A purple nodding thistle pokes its way up through the blooms
of a banana yucca in the Mazatzal Mountains. | PAUL GILL
To order a print of this photograph, call 866-962-1191 or visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 29
“I decided that if I could paint that flower in a huge scale,
you could not ignore its beauty.” — GEORGIA O’KEEFFE
30 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 31
SIPHON DRAW TRAIL | Lost
Dutchman State Park
This strenuous hike passes
through Lost Dutchman State
Park, then ventures into the more
rugged Superstition Wilderness,
where the once well-marked
dirt path evolves into a rocky,
less clearly defined trail. The
scramble is worth it, though,
especially as you arrive at a large
stone basin. There, a seasonal
waterfall marks the official end of
the Siphon Draw Trail and makes
a great place to take a breather
among some of the season’s
Directions: From Phoenix, take
U.S. Route 60 east to Tomahawk
Road, turn left and continue on
Tomahawk Road for approxi-mately
3.1 miles to State Route
88 (The Apache Trail). Turn right
onto SR 88 and follow the signs
to the park.
Information: 480-982-4485 or
ROUND MOUNTAIN PARK |
Round Mountain Park near
downtown Globe has five loop
trails that range from easy to
difficult. Along them, hikers can
enjoy wallflowers, bladderpods,
desert onions, sego lilies and
hedgehog cactuses. For fans of
lupines or spurges, head for the
Ice House Trail or Six Shooter
Trail, both of which are located in
the nearby Pinal Mountains.
Directions: In Globe, drive to the
north end of South Street.
Information: 928-425-7146 or
SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK
EAST | Tucson
To hit the mother lode of wild-flowers,
rangers of the Rincon
district of Saguaro National Park
East recommend taking the Cac-tus
Forest Drive, which leads to
several hikes in the area. Along
the trails, hikers will be dazzled
by the fire-engine-red blossoms
of ocotillos and the misty-pink
blooms of fairydusters, as well
as daisy-like brittlebush flowers.
In addition, look for goldpoppies,
bahias, filarees, zinnias, twist-flowers
and wild hyacinth.
Directions: From Tucson, drive
east on Broadway Boulevard
to the Old Spanish Trail, turn
right and follow the signs for
approximately 6 miles to Saguaro
National Park East. Cactus Forest
Drive loops through the park.
Information: 520-733-5153 or
Blue Coulter’s lupines mix with Mexican goldpoppies and other cactuses on slopes near Superior,
Arizona (above), and on a hillside at Gonzales Pass, west of Superior (right). | PAUL GILL
HIKES to See Wildflowers
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34 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 35
THUMPER TRAIL | Dead Horse
Ranch State Park
As you approach Dead Horse
Ranch State Park in Cottonwood,
you begin wondering whether or
not you’re in the right place. Is this
really a good spot to see wildflow-ers?
It is. The Verde River runs
through the park and gives life to
such beautiful blooms as golden
smokes, freckled milkvetches,
Parry’s penstemons, desert mari-golds
and asters. The Thumper
Trail is part of a 7-mile loop that
winds around the state park.
Directions: From Interstate 17,
drive west on State Route 260 to
Main Street in Cottonwood (State
Route 89A), turn left and con-tinue
through Cottonwood as the
street gradually curves to the left.
Turn right onto North 10th Street
and follow the signs to the park.
Information: 928-634-5283 or
WHYTES RETREAT TRAIL |
Cattail Cove State Park
Cattail Cove State Park, which
sits near Lake Havasu City, is an
outdoor enthusiast’s paradise,
thanks to riverside fishing and
camping. Visitors to the park can
also enjoy wildflowers on the
Whytes Retreat Trail, which is an
easy, 1.5-mile stretch along the
shoreline of Lake Havasu. The
McKinney Loop portion of the
trail provides hikers with glimpses
of purple scorpion weeds, yellow
cups and Mexican goldpoppies.
The beautiful blooming cactuses
you’ll see are courtesy of the
volunteers who maintain a cactus
garden at the park.
Directions: From Lake Havasu City,
drive north on State Route 95 to
Lake Shore Boulevard, turn right
and follow the signs to the park.
Information: 928-855-1223 or
Blue Coulter’s lu-pines
| PAUL GILL
RIGHT: An inch-worm
pays a visit
to a sego lily in the
| PAUL GILL
LEFT: A patch of
a teddy bear cholla
near Bartlett Lake.
| GEORGE STOCKING
HIKES to See Wildflowers
“The Amen of nature is always a flower.” — OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES
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The Lucky Spurs
A TRUE STORY ABOUT A RANCHER, A TREASURE CHEST, A SET OF SPURS AND
A TABLE FULL OF COWBOYS, INCLUDING A BLOOD RELATIVE OF THE RANCHER AND A SURLY CHARACTER
NAMED DINK. IF THIS STORY HADN’T REALLY HAPPENED, YOU’D THINK IT ORIGINATED
IN THE MIND OF CORMAC McCARTHY. An Essay by J.P.S. Brown
Illustrations by Brad Holland
EDITOR’S NOTE: J.P.S. Brown is a fifth-generation Arizonan. In that time, among other
things, he’s been a boxer, Marine, journalist, cattle trader, rancher, prospector, movie
wrangler, whiskey smuggler and fiction writer. His first novel, Jim Kane, was made into the
movie Pocket Money, which starred Paul Newman and Lee Marvin, and his book The Forests
of the Night was described by acclaimed writer Charles Bowden as “the finest novel ever
written in our region.” At the age of 80, Mr. Brown is still writing, and we’re proud to have
wrangled one of his most recent essays.
My Grandmother Sorrells was born Maude Jane Bergier
on the Salmon River in Idaho. She came to Arizona on a wagon in 1896
when she was 10. She made the last half of the trip in great pain after
a wagon wheel rolled over her arm and broke it. She raised her little
brothers, Bob and Pete Bergier, after her parents, sisters and youngest
brother went on to California and left her in charge of their homestead
at La Noria, on the Mexican border. She married Bert Sorrells when
she was 15, and they had three sons and two daughters. To her great
sorrow, she outlived her husband, one daughter and all three of her
sons. She died in 1972.
I had been ranching in Sonora, Mexico, for 15 years when Granny
Sorrells died. She left her belongings and small, well-kept house in
Nogales to me. Her memorabilia was a treasure that I shared with my
cousins and my mother. I saved only her cedar chest for myself, the
one treasure that I had coveted, but had never been allowed to touch.
In that chest I found Native American beaded buckskin moccasins
and gauntlets that had been made especially for her by someone who
lived and traded on the Salmon River. They still smelled smoky. I
also found a complete set of Blue Willow china and, deep in a corner,
I found a tiny, tarnished cowbell that Granny had worn for every
meeting she attended of the Arizona Cowbelles since its founding in
the early 1940s.
In the very bottom of the chest, I found a pair of Chihua-huan
spurs that rang like silver bells when I picked them up. They
looked handmade, and I couldn’t find a trademark on them. I thought
they might have been made by my uncle Buster Sorrells, a fourth-generation
Arizona rancher who was as good with fire, bellows, anvil
and iron as he was at herding cattle, training horses, running wild and
serenading his friends with mariachi music.
I took the spurs down to my ranch at Chihuahuita, Sonora, to use
and to enjoy the music they made. I particularly liked their weight
and balance, and their humane effect on horses and mules. I kept
them in my pickup. It wasn’t easy to walk anywhere with them on,
because they dragged the ground and made too much noise. When
I didn’t want them to drag, I pulled them around so that they rode
on my instep. Their six-spoke rowels were more than an inch long, a
quarter-inch wide and so blunt they could never hurt a horse. To start
an animal, all I had to do was touch the side of a rowel against his side,
or rattle it, to make it ring.
38 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 39
A few years later, I came out of Mexico with steers for export at
Nogales. After we shipped the cattle to filaree pasture at Gila Bend,
my partner, the late Del Brooks, and I went to our favorite watering
hole at the Montezuma Hotel. The lounge was dark, but a corner booth
was full of old-timers I soon recognized. One was Paul Summers, my
father. The others were Dink Parker, Joe Kane and Lonnie Hunt — his
lifelong friends. I was overcome with a feeling of good fortune — I
had not seen my flesh-and-blood father since the fall of 1952, before I
joined the Marine Corps. Rancher Joe Kane was my godfather. I had
seen rancher Dink Parker from time to time on my visits to Nogales,
because he always watered at the Montezuma when he was in town.
Dink wanted little to do with me, because I had allowed my stepfather,
Vivian Brown, to adopt me and change my last name to Brown when
I was 9 years old.
Del Brooks and I threw right in with them, in spite of Dink’s icy
looks. Lonnie Hunt and I had been friends a long time. We’d sat in
the Montezuma and shared stories about Paul and my Sorrells uncles
every time I was in Nogales. All four of those old-timers loved my
That day, Paul, my father, told stories about the Rock Corral Ranch
that he and my mother had owned during the Depression. That
reminded me of those relic spurs in my pickup. I brought them in and
laid them with all their musical accompaniment and great weight on
the center of our table. Dink and Joe twirled their rowels and hefted
them. Lonnie picked them up, laid them down, and smiled.
Paul had only glanced at them once since I laid them on the table,
but I could see by the look in his eye that he recognized them and
probably knew more about them than I did.
“They don’t match,” he said.
I had never noticed any real differences between them.
Paul picked up the spurs and turned their silver adornments
toward me. “See, they’re different. I know these spurs. They’re mine.”
“How don’t they match?” I asked. “They look the same to me.”
He showed me that each spur was adorned with two silver bars, but
the bars on one were thinner than the bars on the other.
“I lost track of them when your mother and I separated,” he said. “I
asked her for them once, but she said she didn’t know anything about
them. That surprised me, because they have a history that she knew
as well as I did.
“Your mother and I had only been married a year and she was car-rying
you. We bought the Rock Corral with her inheritance from Bert
Sorrells, but, as luck would have it, we didn’t have to buy one single
cow to stock it with. We stocked it with wild cattle that I caught in
the Tumacacori Mountains on our west side.
“I liked to ride up high and drive downhill to my traps on the flats,”
Paul continued. “I had pretty much cleaned the country of young bulls,
cows and calves, but a whole lot of old ladinos and maverick bulls
still ran up there. The ladinos were big steers that had gone wild after
they’d been branded and cut. They were wise to the ways of mankind,
plenty bronco and plenty fat.
“I had seen a big steer near
the top of the mountain several
times. He was branded with
your grandfather’s 7X, so he
had to be at least 12 years old.
He was tall as a saddle horse,
looked like he weighed about
1,500 pounds, and could run
like a deer. Every time I saw
him, he had the advantage on
me and was able to get away
over to the other side of the
“One day I made it up to the
spine of the mountains about
the middle of the afternoon,” he
said. “I surprised the big steer
and started him down.
“He was too smart to try to outrun me, and I was too smart to let
him lead me down into a canyon or a draw, then rim out on me. We
played around awhile, until I caught a lucky break and he tried to rim
out when I had the advantage. His climb to a ridge where he could get
away was steeper than mine, and I beat him to the top, roped him and
tied him to a tree.
“I didn’t want to try to lead him down to headquarters as late as it
was and as big as he was, so I tied him so the base of his horns would
get sore overnight and I could lead him down the next day.
“I still had enough time to get home before full dark, but as I turned
my horse off the mountain, I saw that I’d lost a spur.
“I was awful high on these spurs,” Paul admitted. “I didn’t even
really mind dragging them across the corral, or across a porch, or
patio, because when they were in the stirrup, no other spurs could
match them for balance, music and gentleness to a horse. A horse soon
learned to start when the music started in one or both of my spurs.
“I didn’t intend to go home without that spur,” Paul recalled. “I
backtracked all the way to the place I first sighted the steer and then
tracked back to the steer again, but didn’t find it.
“By then it was too dark to make it down the trail to home. I didn’t
want to spend the night beside the darned old ladino, so me and my
horse felt our way down the other side of the mountain to the camp
of that man who now sits on the other side of this table grinning at
me — Lonnie Hunt.
“I hollered hello when I rode into his yard, and it was so dark I
couldn’t find the ground when I stepped off my horse. Lonnie came
out and helped me unsaddle and put my horse away. I cussed and
complained about losing that spur every step I took as we walked up
to his camp in the dark.
“I kept it up while he made me supper. I knew I was being a big
crybaby, but I just couldn’t stand the loss of that spur, nor could I stop
yow-yowing about it.
“Lonnie didn’t say a word through the whole harangue. Finally, I
shut up, came up for air and said, ‘What can a man do with just one
“Lonnie got up from the table, walked over to his locker box, took
out a spur, and dropped it in my lap.
“ ‘There, now you have two,’ ” he said matter-of-factly.
“That’s the right spur of this
pair you’re looking at,” Paul said.
“Way out where the sun had set
between me and Lonnie and
town, I found a darned near per-fect
mate for my spur the night
after the same day I lost it out on
the trail. That kind of good fortune
wouldn’t happen again in a mil-lion
What are the odds that
I would have those spurs in my
truck when I encountered the
only two men in the world who
knew their history, at a place that
I visited just every six months
from 400 miles away? Paul had
not been to Nogales for 20 years, and would never visit there again.
What are the odds that I would find those spurs in the bottom of my
grandmother’s cedar chest and bring them back to the light of day?
I didn’t think to ask Paul and Lonnie to give me the name
of the maker. We broke up late that night and went our separate ways,
so I lost that chance to learn the origin of the spurs from them.
Then, one day, a woman who was a complete “dude,” who didn’t
know a stirrup from an elevator, but did know how to identify West-ern
artifacts, showed me the trademark on my spurs. Faintly stamped
beside the button of each spur was: “K. B. & P.”
She told me that those letters meant Kelly Brothers and Partners. I
won’t venture to say it’s true, or what the value of my spurs might be
to a collector. I do know that the spurs are a lot older than I am, and
that I know their value to me. I got them from my pioneer grandmother
and a pair of lucky cowboys who would never have lived as long as they
did if they had not been lucky. I’m at least that lucky, and that kind
of luck can’t be sold. As for me, I’m 80 now, and feeling very fortunate
myself. And I still can’t get over the music my spurs make on both
sides of a horse.
didn’t want to try to
lead him down to headquarters
as late as it was and as big as he was,
so I tied him so the base
of his horns would get sore overnight
and I could lead him down
the next day. ”
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As if planting cotton fields and orange
groves in Arizona weren’t strange enough,
the Walden family went even further
out on the limb and planted pecan trees.
Although a nut farm is the last thing you’d
expect to see in the desert, the Waldens
boast the largest vertically integrated
facility in the U.S. and the largest irrigated
pecan orchard in the world.
By NIKKI BUCHANAN
Photographs by RICHARD MAACK
Dick Walden and his wife, Nan Stockholm Walden, are president
and vice president, respectively, of The Green Valley Pecan Co.
Pecans are harvested
annually by machine
very elementary school student in Arizona learns the five C’s
of the state’s economy — copper, cattle, citrus, cotton and
climate — but ask them about the local pecan industry and
they might look at you as if you’re nuts. Ditto for their parents. Most of
us associate shady pecan trees with southern states such as Georgia
and Texas, and while those praline-loving places surpass Arizona in
overall production, they don’t have one thing we do: The Green Valley
Pecan Co., which boasts the largest vertically integrated facility in the
U.S. — meaning it does everything from growing pecans to shipping
them — and tends the largest irrigated pecan orchard in the world.
Located 15 miles south of Tucson in the once sleepy but rapidly
growing farm community of Sahuarita, The Green Valley Pecan Co., a
division of Farmers Investment Co. (FICO), might sound like a multi-national
conglomerate, but it is and always has been a family owned
and operated business.
Its founder, R. Keith Walden, grew up in California, where he had
begun farming with his father and brother at an early age. But as land
prices rose there in the 1940s, Walden took the advice of Arizona busi-nessman
Kemper Marley and moved to Arizona, buying the 10,000-
acre Continental Farm, nestled in the Santa Cruz Valley.
Even then, the farm boasted a rich history of ownership. The Inter-continental
Rubber Co., founded by legendary financiers J.P. Morgan,
Joseph Kennedy and Bernard Baruch, had bought the land and estab-lished
Continental at the outset of World War I, growing guayule, a
latex-producing plant used to make rubber. There was fear at the time
that the German navy would cut off shipping lanes, blocking rubber
imports from the Far East. When the war ended, the guayule project
was abandoned, and the Continental Farm was eventually sold to
Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands, who rented it to cotton farm-ers
for 25 years. During World War II, German POWs interned in a
nearby camp worked in Continental’s fields. In 1948, the farm went
on the market again.
Walden bought the land in 1949, continuing to grow cotton on it
but also planting alfalfa, corn for silage, wheat and barley. In the early
days, Walden also raised 9,000 head of sheep and 20,000 head of cattle,
closing the feedlot in 1976 when its opera-tions
became incompatible with a rapidly
growing roster of residents in Green Valley.
At the same time, Walden continued to buy
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nearby, where they’re immediately stored at 24 degrees.
After chilling out in cold storage, the nuts go through a series of
baths to raise their moisture content, making it easier to separate
the meat from the shell. Then they’re sent to an automated crack-ing
machine, an automated shelling machine, a gravity table (which
further separates pecan pieces from shells), a dryer and then various
electronic sorters and belt machines, which separate the pieces by
size, color and quality.
The final step requires the eagle eyes and quick hands of human
sorters, who remove any pieces with sprouts or other flaws. After that,
the pecans are bagged in various sizes (1- and 2-pound cello bags for
grocery stores and 30-pound boxes for bakeries, candy companies, ice
cream manufacturers and a gigantic European market that’s interested
almost exclusively in the organic line). The 30-pound boxes carry
the name Green Valley Pecan Co., but Green Valley pecans are also
sold at Bashas’ and AJ’s Fine Foods, as well as at Costco, under the
The plant operates 24 hours a day, five days a week, shutting down
for cleaning every weekend and for repairs two weeks out of the year.
The rest of the time, it hums with three and four generations of mod-ern
equipment and two to three generations of employees, turning out
a dozen 2-pound bags of pecans per minute and processing more than
20 million pounds of in-shell pecans per year.
To the side and front of the processing plant stands a cute little
pecan store, filled with Arizona-made jams, jellies, honeys, hot sauces
and the like, as well as every imaginable permutation of the pecan.
Besides natural pecan halves and pieces, there are chocolate-cov-ered
pecans, turtles, pecan pralines, cinnamon pecans, hot and spicy
pecans, pecan brittle and even pecan meal, which is quite popular in
Europe and makes a yummy addition to pancake, waffle or cookie
batter. Pecan gift baskets are available in-store and online at www.
Deborah Walden-Ralls, Dick’s daughter and the company’s director
of marketing, points out that it’s the imaginative little extras (such as
Green Valley Pecan Co.’s pecan festival in November) that keep the
business viable. Nan agrees, adding that every successful family farm
in Arizona has learned to adapt in order to survive.
Nan is also quick to point out that the modern farmer is a far cry
from the stereotypical hayseed in overalls. Today’s farmer must find new
markets and become something of a PR wizard, all the while remain-ing
a botanist, biologist, accountant, engineer and steward of the land.
Agriculture has gone global, and nuts are an important export
crop in many far-flung countries. As a result of their nutty business,
the Waldens have traveled the world, attending meetings in Istan-bul,
Beijing and Buenos Aires, sitting on various national and global
food councils and routinely visiting annual food shows that alternate
between Paris and Cologne.
Sounds pretty glamorous, doesn’t it? But Dick happily admits that
when he was a boy, his makeshift schoolhouse boasted three rooms
and an outhouse, the school bus was a pickup truck with rows of
benches in the back, and driving to Nogales meant bumping along a
narrow, two-lane dirt road.
The world has changed, farming has changed and, yes, Dick
Walden has surely changed, too. But for the hardworking, entrepre-neurial
Waldens, two principles are timeless: family and working
hard at being the best. And there’s nothing nutty about that.
more land around the state, including the Sahuarita Farm, which lies
adjacent to Continental.
Walden’s son, Dick, who became the company’s president and
CEO in 1983, recalls how FICO got out of cotton and into pecans.
“Dad was concerned that companies like Dupont and Union Carbide
were heavily invested in developing synthetic fibers that might replace
much of the market for cotton,” he says. “So Dad began to experiment
methodically with different crops.”
Walden planted stone fruits, all of the tree nuts and a dozen vari-eties
of grapes. Grapes and pecans thrived equally well, but Walden
settled on pecans because they have a longer harvest window and can
be harvested by machine.
Keith Walden started planting pecan trees in 1965 (Dick swears
people thought his dad was cracked), choosing two varieties — the
Wichita and Western Schley — for their larger size, thinner shells
and abundance of meat.
Pecan trees, which are native to North America, don’t produce for
the first five years; but unlike citrus trees, which have a production
lifespan of 35 years at most, pecan trees (particularly managed ones)
can bear quality pecans for centuries. FICO’s first trees started pro-ducing
pecans in 1970; they’re still quite young in the scheme of things.
To the uninformed, it might appear that pecan farming is as easy
as ... well, pie. But the process is a bit more involved than just watching
trees grow. FICO manages 5,900 acres of orchard and approximately
106,000 trees, which must be pruned, fed and irrigated every two
weeks and kept pest-free.
Although Arizona’s dry soil and abundant sunshine keep fungus
at bay, a minimal amount of fungicides and pesticides is used on the
farm’s conventional crops. Nevertheless, Dick — who is as progressive
a farmer as his dad was — uses biological controls as much as possible,
maintaining that it’s better for the trees and the land. “You get super-insects
by using pesticides,” he asserts. “We let nature balance itself
out rather than trying to manipulate nature.”
Dick’s wife, Nan, the company’s vice president and general counsel —
she holds an undergraduate degree in environmental studies and a law
degree from Stanford — explains their practices this way: “Agricul-ture
is the art of observation. We are super-observers.”
The Waldens have long been major players in the organic move-ment,
beginning the stringent, three-year process of converting a
portion of their conventional orchards to certified organic orchards
in 2000. As of 2011, their organic orchards (certified by Oregon Tilth)
span 1,200 acres.
Additionally, Dick and crew work hand in hand with state uni-versities,
doing field research on nut varieties, soil and water use —
clearly, a job for brainiacs who don’t mind getting their hands dirty.
But if all this sounds scientific and methodical, consider harvest
time — a frantically paced seven weeks falling between December
and February. Ideally, temperatures are cool, and the orchard floors
are dry, not muddy from winter rains.
When the conditions are right, the pecans are mechanically shaken
from the trees, machine-swept into windrows, picked up by a har-vester,
then trucked to FICO’s 120,000-square-foot processing plant
might seem that
pecan farming is
as easy as ... well,
pie. But the
process is a bit
mor e involved
tr ees grow.
LEFT: The orchards are
pruned, fed and irrigated
every two weeks.
BELOW: After chilling in cold
storage, the pecans go
through a variety of crack-ing
and sorting processes
before final packaging.
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n the 1940s and ’50s, Bud-weiser
aspired to become the
king of beers in Arizona, but
A-1 was No. 1.
Dubbed “Arizona Bud,”
A-1’s advertising touted the
beer as “The Western Way
to Say Welcome” and
incorporated some of
artist Lon Megargee’s
most iconic artwork. A-1 signs prolifer-ated
along bar fronts throughout the state.
There were A-1 teams. A-1 jingles flooded
A-1 hasn’t been brewed in decades and
memory of the brand has faded, but among
the faithful, its spirit never died. An A-1
sign still hangs in front of The Palace Bar in
Prescott. And A-1 memorabilia has become
highly collectable, with 80 members com-prising
one of the most vibrant chapters of
the Brewery Collectibles Club of America.
Now, A-1 beer is back. And in an era when
even a brand as American as Budweiser is
owned by a foreign company, A-1 is still
Arizona through and through, thanks to a
Southern Arizona businessman and Tucson’s
Nimbus Brewing Co.
Founded in 1933, the Arizona Brewing
Co. opened shortly after the repeal of Prohi-bition.
Located at 12th Street and Madison
in Phoenix, the young brewery struggled at
first, changing ownership three times in less
than 10 years.
It wasn’t until Joseph F. Lanser bought the
brewery out of bankruptcy in 1942 that the
company’s fortunes changed. A big part of
the brewery’s success was the introduction
of a new flagship brand: A-1.
Riding a wave of growth following the
end of World War II, Arizona Brewing Co.
beer sales grew faster than any brewery in the
country, thanks largely to A-1, which domi-nated
sales in Arizona into the 1950s.
Jobs at the company were hard to get,
says Ed Sipos, who researched the brewery
as part of an upcoming book on the history of
brewing in Arizona. Employees didn’t want
to leave. They called themselves the A-1 fam-ily
and held annual picnics until just a few
But the brewery began to struggle dur-ing
a wave of consolidation in the 1950s that
created brewing behemoths like Anheuser-
Busch, Pabst and Schlitz.
A-1 struggled, in particular, against aggres-sive
pricing by Coors. Then, in 1957, Anheuser-
Busch filed a lawsuit alleging the eagle on the
A-1 logo was too similar to its own.
“They were just trying to put A-1 out of
business,” says Nimbus owner Jim Counts.
“That lawsuit nearly took them down.”
Arizona Brewing Co. changed the beer’s
name to Lancer’s, created a new logo and
tinkered with the recipe. And that began a
Quality slipped following Lanser’s death
in 1963. Cost-cutting and a series of corporate
buyouts finished off the brand for good.
The G. Heileman Brewing Co. of Lacrosse,
Wisconsin, which bought the brewery in
1979, closed it in 1985. The building was torn
down in 1993.
There were a couple of attempts to revive
A-1. Carling Brewing Co., which bought the
brewery from the Lanser family, tried in the
1970s. But the quality wasn’t the same.
In the 1990s, Eli Drakulich approached
Heileman about producing A-1 for Beverage
House, his Southern Arizona liquor store
chain. “I thought, this is a piece of Arizona history
and I want to save it,” Drakulich says.
Heileman produced one batch of A-1 for
Beverage House. Drakulich was in the pro-cess
of trying to buy the rights to the A-1
brand when Stroh Brewery Co. bought Hei-leman.
Stroh eventually did sell the rights to
Drakulich and business partner Kirby Davis.
“That started a long road of disappoint-ment,”
Drakulich says. “Because I was in
retail, I couldn’t do anything with the trade-mark.
So I sat on it.”
In May 2009, Drakulich sold his last
retail store, which left him free to pursue his
plans. Drakulich wanted a premium beer
that would reflect the brand’s former glory,
so he approached Nimbus about producing
a handcrafted microbrew.
Family members of former A-1 employees
offered recipes, but “what we made of them
didn’t taste very good,” Counts says.
Instead, Nimbus brewmaster Lijah Forger
started from scratch to produce a high-qual-ity
pilsner that would reflect the spirit of
A-1. The new brew rolled out last August.
Among the first to get it were The Palace
Bar and Megargee’s former guest ranch, the
Drakulich believes he will succeed where
others failed. “It’s now a high-quality pilsner,
which is what A-1 was,” he says. “When it
tried to come back [before], it was trying
to go head to head with the big breweries.
We’re bringing it back as a craft brew. We
don’t need a big market share.”
Besides, profit was never his motivation,
Drakulich says. “I’m happy that Arizona’s got
its beer and its history back. If I don’t make
a penny on this, I’m satisfied. I accomplished
When the Arizona Brewing Co. began
bottling beer in 1933, it seemed
unlikely that a local shop could outsell
the big boys such as Budweiser, Pabst
and Schlitz. But with the introduction
of A-1, its flagship brand, that’s exactly
what happened — A-1 dominated the
market until the 1950s. Although the
brewery eventually dried up, the
brand is being resurrected in Tucson,
and the A-1 faithful couldn’t be happier. I
In its heyday, the A-1 beer company’s production line (above, circa 1954) strove
to make the best brew in Arizona. Now, after years of inactivity, A-1 is back with
a new recipe and new marketing.
By Kathy Montgomery
Photography by Robert Markow
46 m a r c h 2 0 1 1
ROAD Although Kerouac was preoccupied with
being on the road, off-roading is what’s
hip today. Off-highway driving, which
generates $4 billion annually for the
state’s economy, is one of the fastest-growing
leisure activities in Arizona.
That’s good news for the bottom line,
but the increasing traffic is putting
extreme pressure on public lands.
BY KATHY MONTGOMERY
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KERRICK JAMES
www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 47
“Only those who will risk going too far can
possibly find out how far one can go.” — T.S. ELIOT
48 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 49
atch this guy spinning his tires,” says Nena
Barlow, pointing to a Jeep Rubicon in front of us.
Barlow has driven me out to Sedona’s popular
Broken Arrow Trail to demonstrate the basics
of environmentally responsible off-highway driv-ing.
The driver attempting to climb a rock ledge
inspires our first lesson.
“When we do Jeep school, one of the things we try to
teach is reading the terrain and applying the right amount of
movement,” Barlow says. “For most people, it’s like, ‘When in
doubt, gas it.’ That’s generally not the right response.”
After a moment, the Jeep gains traction and eases slowly
up and across the ledge. Barlow decides the driver is doing
a fairly good job.
“We teach people the one-second rule,” she explains. “If
you sit in one place spinning tires for more than a full second,
you need to do something different.”
A former Jeep tour guide, Barlow now operates Sedona
Jeep School and owns Barlow Jeep Rentals. She has a unique
perspective on one of the most significant trends in rec-reation.
Off-highway driving is one of the fastest-growing
leisure activities in the country, particularly in the West.
In a 2009 survey, nearly 2 million Arizonans said they went
four-wheeling in the past year. That’s a boon to the state’s
economy, to the tune of $4 billion a year. But the increasing
traffic has also put pressure on public lands.
To protect fragile resources, the federal government is
in the process of issuing new rules for driving an off-high-way
vehicle (OHV), which includes Jeeps, four-wheel-drive
trucks, ATVs, etc. But keeping the land in good condition
begins with drivers. That’s what Barlow tries to get across
to the tourists who rent Jeeps and to the commercial clients
who take classes. User-created trails present the biggest
challenge for land managers.
“That’s really our problem,” says Brady Smith, public
affairs officer for Coconino National Forest, about the need
for the new rules. “A lot of roads out there were made by
people who just go off the track … we just can’t keep up with
Driving off established roads can damage the soil, destroy
native plants and create erosion. Studies of high-use OHV
areas recorded vegetation loss at more than 90 percent.
Efforts to restore it aren’t always successful.
Desert soils are particularly vulnerable. Even a single
pass with a vehicle can destroy soil components, which take
decades or centuries to recover.
Off-highway driving can also affect wildlife by destroy-ing
habitat, crushing burrows and damaging streams. Noise
from motor vehicles can make animals flee their homes,
become confused or suffer hearing loss.
Ranchers and property owners complain that OHV users
trespass on private property, cut fences, and use windmills,
signs and other property for target practice.
“A lot of it happens because trails are developed in inap-propriate
areas,” says Robert Baldwin, recreational trails
grants coordinator for Arizona State Parks, which distrib-utes
funding for land management to the Forest Service and
Bureau of Land Management. “[The trails are] not designed
to avoid low spots. So you get down in the forest and, on a
dry day, there’s a nice trail there, but all of a sudden it collects
water. People try to go through there and they go around it.
So your 50-inch trail becomes 20 feet wide. That route should
not have been put there in the first place.”
In her experience as a former guide, Barlow has seen how
seemingly insignificant damage plays out over time. “This is
unnecessary,” she says, braking her Jeep just past Submarine
Rock and pointing to the roadside. “Obviously, there’s a nice,
established pullout right here. And then for whatever reason,
there are tracks up that bank, right across the shrubs, right
across the cryptobiotic soil.”
Cryptobiotic soils, which are alive with cyanobacteria,
lichens and mosses, are ecologically important in arid envi-ronments.
“In the desert, it takes about 200 years to grow nice and
thick like that,” Barlow says. “[The cryptobiotic soil] holds
the moisture in. It holds nutrients in. It keeps the topsoil from
washing away. But you step on that or drive a bike across it, or
a Jeep, and it crushes it.
“Now that becomes an erosion path. So that bank will very
rapidly erode with just that one track there.”
Most people want to do the right thing, Barlow says. They
just don’t know what that is.
Blame advertising, Barlow says.
“[Off-road vehicle] marketing is horrendous,” she says. “I
shudder every time those commercials come on. So we try
to tell our students, ‘Number one: Don’t drive like you see
in the four-wheel-drive commercials. Number two: Around
here especially, you can’t go too slow.’ The Jeep just walks
through, and if you’re bouncing and throwing rocks and
spinning tires, you’re not only being hard on your vehicle and
your passengers, but on the terrain. No one comes out here to
hear revving motors and spinning tires.”
ff-roading is probably as old as the car, but
recreational four-wheeling likely dates to the
1940s, when returning World War II veter-ans
started taking their Jeeps into the woods.
Still, as late as 1960, when the first national
recreation survey was taken, off-highway driving wasn’t
even on the radar.
The latest national survey, published in 2005, found that
nearly a quarter of Americans 16 and older had participated
in some form of off-highway driving during the previous year.
In the West, the rate was 27 percent. Sales of OHVs have
skyrocketed. In Arizona, off-highway motorcycle and ATV
sales grew 623 percent from 1995 to 2006.
In the 1970s, the federal government started taking notice.
Presidents Nixon and Carter signed executive orders requir-ing
federal agencies to identify areas on public lands where
vehicles were permitted to drive off the paved roads. At the
time, many offices simply identified areas where use would
be prohibited and classified the remaining lands as open.
In Arizona, most four-wheeling takes place on the more
than 22 million acres of Forest Service and BLM land. The
National Park Service limits access. The 9.3 million acres of
State Trust land also see a lot of off-highway traffic.
Both the BLM and Forest Service are in the process of
PRECEDING PANEL: Off-highway
driving is on
the increase, but
there’s pressure to
be gentler to the
land, including plac-es
such as Chicken
Point on the Broken
OPPOSITE PAGE: A Jeep
motors slowly along
a trail near Sedona.
“the stairs” requires
care on Broken Arrow.
“It’s the way you ride the trail that counts.” — DALE EVANS
50 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 51
■■ The Arizona Department of Envi-ronmental
Quality website includes
a map of the areas affected by
OHV restrictions on high-pollution
advisory days. For information, visit
■■ ADEQ offers free High Pollution
Advisory text message alerts. Sign
up for this service at www.azdeq.
■■ Arizona Game and Fish Department
offers an online OHV education
course. For information, visit www.
■■ Arizona State Land Department
controls State Trust land, which is not
public. A permit is required to camp,
hike or travel on State Trust property,
though users with an OHV decal are
permitted to use existing roads and
trails. For information, visit www.
■■ Arizona State Parks has extensive
information on its website for off-highway
enthusiasts. For informa-tion,
■■ For information on Arizona State
Parks’ OHV Ambassador program,
■■ Find OHV-related information for
land managed by the Bureau of Land
Management at www.blm.gov/az/
■■ Tread Lightly! is a national nonprofit
agency that offers guidebooks, an
online awareness course, educational
materials and material for children.
For information, visit www.tread
■■ Find published Forest Service motor-vehicle-
use maps at www.fs.fed.
evaluating routes to determine their suitability for off-highway
driving. Each of Arizona’s six national forests is
developing its own guidelines to be published in the form of
motor-vehicle-use maps. The guidelines will include which
roads and trails are open to motorized vehicles, and any
restrictions such as class of vehicle or season. To date, only
Prescott National Forest has completed the process. More
are expected this summer.
The BLM has designated about 10 percent of its estimated
31,000 miles of primitive roads and trails in Arizona for off-highway
driving, and closed nearly a third of them in the
process. The agency hopes to have all roads signed and des-ignated,
with printed access guides available, by 2015.
“You’re not going to see humongous open areas anymore,”
says Bill Gibson, BLM’s trails and travel management coordi-nator
in Arizona. “Environmentally, socially and politically,
that’s not going to happen.”
Instead, he says, the goal is to concentrate use in certain
areas so that the BLM can fulfill the need for motor-vehicle
recreation while protecting areas that need protection.
At the state level, Arizona legislators have tried to address
the phenomenon. An OHV Recreation Fund was signed into
law in 1989 and amended in 1991. The law mandates that 0.55
percent of annual state fuel tax revenues be used to finance
the fund. Arizona State Parks administers 60 percent for
trail development, enhancement and maintenance. Thirty-five
percent goes to the Arizona Game and Fish Depart-ment
for information, education and law enforcement. The
Arizona State Land Department receives the remaining
5 percent for OHV-related activities on State Trust lands.
A 2007 law meant to address particulate pollution
restricted OHV use in some areas on high-pollution advisory
days. And in 2008, the Legislature passed a law requiring an
OHV decal for most off-highway vehicles under 1,800 pounds
that displays equipment requirements and guidelines for
safe, ethical and responsible operation. The $25 decal gener-ates
more than $1 million a year. Seventy percent of decal
revenues feed the OHV Recreation Fund. The remaining 30
percent goes to the Highway User Revenue Fund.
The OHV Recreation Fund has been subject to legislative
sweeps, but the money has provided valuable services and
“I think it’s a very good idea,” says Rebecca Antle, president
of the Arizona State Association of 4-WD Clubs. “The money
does come back and benefit those who use the trails.”
Back at Broken Arrow Trail, Barlow observes that in the
past few years, information about responsible off-highway
driving has become much more readily available. Arizona
State Parks maintains a comprehensive website, with a map
of trails and contact information for managing agencies.
Arizona Game and Fish, the Forest Service and the BLM
also maintain OHV-related information on their websites.
“With all the information on the Internet, there’s not the
excuse we had even 15 years ago about, ‘Oh, I didn’t know
this was closed or those were the rules,’ ” Barlow says. “You
don’t have to look very far.”
Ultimately, land managers can do only so much, particu-larly
when budgets are strained.
Organized OHV groups stand
in the gap by offering training
and volunteering for trail main-tenance
and trash pickup. This
year, an OHV Ambassador pilot
program run by Arizona State
Parks that trains volunteers to
provide a presence in high-use
area is expanding statewide.
But the bottom line is per-sonal.
“Once people leave the
pavement, they think it’s OK to
drink ... it’s OK to let an 11-year-old
kid drive,” Barlow says. “No. It’s still a public road. We all
have to be more responsible. The lessons we learned the hard
way, the next generation has to be taught right off the bat. I
think we’re taking steps in the right direction, but we’ve got
a long way to go.”
on your vehi-cle
but on the
Trail are spectac-ular,
are urged not to
52 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 53
it seems like a joke — as
if someone’s pulling your
leg — as you drive deeper into
the sparse, sun-slapped hills.
Despite the road signs asserting
that this is the way to Alamo
Lake State Park, you begin to
wonder whether this country
could actually shelter a body of
water — certainly not one big
enough to lure bald eagles and
be regarded as one of the state’s
premier bass-fishing spots. But
because it’s a haunting, mes-merizing
drive, you’re willing
to play along, even if it is a gag.
Alamo Dam Road launches
from Wenden, a wisp of a town
strung along U.S. Route 60
between Salome and Wicken-burg.
At first you’ll pass a few
modest residences, then fields
of lush crops. Yet as soon as
those rows of leafy greens are in
the rearview, the desert — held
briefly at bay by irrigation appa-ratuses
— closes in around you.
The road climbs through
Cunningham Pass, as the rocky
hills of the Harcuvar range
shoulder in close to the pave-ment.
Beyond the pass, you drop
into a broad valley, and views
extend across the hardscrabble
panorama, serving as a reminder
that no lake lurks nearby. Sagua-ros
dot the slopes among scrubby
paloverde trees and creosote
bushes. Sunlight splinters among
the teddy bear chollas, fuzzy
with tight clustered spines.
Wildflowers suddenly burst
across the landscape. Brittle-bushes,
California poppies and
desert marigolds predominate,
but there’s also owl clover, des-ert
chicory, scorpionweed and
Arizona caltrop mixed in. The
wetter the winter, the more
dramatic the display. The peak
season is March and April.
Finally, the road rises off
the basin floor at a gentle tilt
and curves for the first time
in many miles. More curves
and dips follow as you glide
through soft, rolling hills.
Then, as you top a ridge, two
things happen simultaneously.
You spot a sign for the Wayside
Inn and, beyond that, in the
distance, a shimmering finger
of water curled along the base
of stark mountains.
Wayside Inn is a combina-tion
hall that sits 3 miles down a
dirt road. It’s a great place to
snag a juicy burger on your
return. But first, let yourself
succumb to the siren song of
improbable water. As you travel
the last couple of miles to the
park entrance, Alamo Lake
comes into focus.
Fed by two intermittent
rivers, the Big Sandy and Santa
Maria, Alamo Lake was formed
to provide flood control of the
Bill Williams River that flows
into Lake Havasu downstream.
An earthen dam was completed
in 1968. Alamo is a lanky piece
of water sprawled at the feet
of the Rawhide and Artillery
mountains. Don’t be surprised
to see the lake dotted with
boats — anglers vie for large-mouth
bass, channel catfish,
black crappie and bluegill, and
fishing tournaments are com-mon
The journey ends at the dam,
where an overlook offers wide
vistas. Seeing the lake from this
perspective, nestled against the
mountains with cactuses lining
the shores and the picturesque
desert scene reflected on the
surface, it’s almost impossible
to imagine it existing anywhere
else in Arizona.
RIGHT AND FAR
RIGHT: If winter
Lake will see owl
ROAD On a list of
unlikely places to
see water and
drive might be at
BY ROGER NAYLOR
Note: Mileages are approximate.
LENGTH: 38 miles one way (paved)
DIRECTIONS: From Wickenburg, drive west on
U.S. Route 60 for 48 miles to Wenden and turn
right onto Alamo Dam Road (also called Second
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None
WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous,
so be aware of weather and road conditions.
Carry plenty of water. Don’t travel alone and let
someone know where you are going and when
you plan to return.
INFORMATION: Alamo Lake State Park, 928-669-
2088 or www.azparks.gov/parks/alla
Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov
or dial 511 to get information
on road closures,
delays, weather and more.
READING: For more
scenic drives, pick
up a copy of our
book The Back
Roads. Now in its
fifth edition, the
features 40 of the
state’s most scenic
drives. To order a
copy, visit www.
O N L I N E For more scenic drives in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/outdoors/drives.asp.
H A R C U V A R M O U N T A I N S
A L A M O L A K E
S T A T E P A R K
Big Sandy River
Santa Maria River
S T A R T H E R E
54 m a r c h 2 0 1 1 www. a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 55
month OF THE
most people in metropolitan Phoenix can
point out the Four Peaks — it’s the most
prominent landmark looking east, and collec-tively,
the peaks mark the highest point in the
Mazatzal Range. Few people, however, have any
idea what the individual peaks are named. And
there’s a reason for that: Three of the four sum-mits
aren’t named. Brown’s Peak, which is the
highest (7,657 feet) and northernmost summit, is
the only one with a name of its own. Fortunately,
that won’t affect your ability to enjoy this hike.
The only thing that’ll get between you and a
perfect ending is the elevation gain of more than
The journey begins along Rock Creek on the
east side of Four Peaks. For the first few min-utes,
the trail is ill-defined as you work your
way across the creek and up a short, rocky slope.
Cairns are in place to help you along, and before
you know it, you’ll be on an old jeep road, marked
as the Baldy Trail on USGS maps.
The Chillicut Trail follows the road for about
30 minutes, and it’s all uphill. Where the jeep
road ends, the trail veers left and cuts across
one of the many small canyons you’ll encounter
before reaching Baldy Canyon, the main gorge
on this trail. Although strenuous hikes require
a certain determination and a plodding-on men-tality,
do yourself a favor and turn around from
time to time. When you do, you’ll get some great
views of the Mogollon Rim to the north and
Roosevelt Lake to the east.
Moving on, about an hour into the hike, you’ll
encounter a few creek-crossings and some ups
and downs. The water, if there is any, won’t be
an issue, and the inclines and declines vary in
length — kind of like having your StairMaster
set on “random.” The trail continues this way
for about an hour, at which point you’ll come to
a set of very steep switchbacks that lead into
Baldy Canyon. There’s a creek in the canyon, and
on the other side you’ll see a sign announcing
the Four Peaks Wilderness Area. This kicks off
the best part of the trail.
In addition to the stream, the canyon features
cottonwoods, willows, sycamores and the kind
of lush vegetation that’s typical of a riparian area,
which provides habitat for the resident wildlife.
Among the usual suspects are deer, skunks, jave-linas,
mountain lions and coyotes.
Heading upward, the trail bridges the creek
several more times, the canyon narrows, the
underbrush gets thicker and the trail gets a little
harder to follow. It also gets steeper, and more
than once you’ll equate the trail to the Energizer
Bunny: It just keeps going and going and going. Even-tually,
though, you’ll pass Chillicut Spring and
arrive at an intersection with the Four Peaks
Trail, which also marks the summit of Buckhorn
If, by this time, your legs
and lungs haven’t already
convinced you that you’ve
made a long haul, the sur-rounding
pine trees will.
Their presence is what
makes this hike unique. In
a matter of miles, the Chilli-cut
Trail goes from saguaros
to ponderosas. It’s a little
mind-boggling, and it’s a lot
of work. Fortunately, it’s all
downhill from there. And
better yet, for peak-baggers
anyway, the summit has a
name — something to write
in a journal. That’s not the
case with three of the Four
LENGTH: 11 miles round-trip
ELEVATION: 2,852 to 6,582 feet
DIRECTIONS: From Claypool (near Globe), drive north on State
Route 188 for 36 miles to Forest Road 445 (Three Bar Road). Turn
left onto FR 445 and drive 3 miles to Forest Road 445A. Turn left
onto FR 445A and continue a quarter-mile to the trailhead.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: High-clearance recommended
DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash)
USGS MAP: Four Peaks
INFORMATION: Tonto Basin Ranger District, 928-467-3200 or
• Plan ahead and be prepared.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly and pack out your trash.
• Leave what you find.
• Respect wildlife and minimize impact.
• Be considerate of others.
BELOW AND RIGHT:
Winter hikers on
Chillicut Trail may
be treated to a
cover of snow or a
CHILLICUT TRAIL The
Superstitions get most of the
attention when it comes to
wildflowers, but there are
other options, including the
east side of Four Peaks.
BY ROBERT STIEVE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICK BEREZENKO
trail guide F
O N L I N E For more hikes in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/outdoors/hiking.asp.
READING: For more
hikes, pick up a
copy of our newest
book, Arizona High-ways
The book ($24.95)
features 52 of
the state’s best
trails — one for
each weekend of
the year, sorted by
seasons. To order
a copy, visit www.
BY ROBERT STIEVE
OF ARIZOnA’S BEST dAY
HIkES FOR WInTER, SPRIng,
SuMMER & FALL 52
F O U R P E A K S
W I L D E R N E S S
T R A I L H E A D
S U P E R S T I T I O N M T S .
T O N T O
N A T I O N A L F O R E S T
M A Z A T Z A L M T S .
56 m a r c h 2 0 1 1
Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location featured above and e-mail your answer to
email@example.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue,
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will be chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by March 15, 2011. Only the winner will be
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BY KELLY KRAMER
BY JEFF K IDA
Since 2003, the clock
atop this 76-foot tower
has ticked away the
minutes for students
who while away the
hours in classrooms,
labs and lecture halls.
Named for a famed
alumnus, the tower is
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reliefs that commemo-rate
four “pillars”: veterans;
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January 2011 Answer:
to our winner,
Mary Hamilton of
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