PLUS: NORTH RIM BACK ROADS • MOLLY BUTLER LODGE • SNOWFLAKE • LILO’S CAFÉ
PAINTED TURTLES • HISTORIC FLAGSTAFF • NORTH KAIBAB TRAIL • SAN PEDRO RIVER
“If there’s magic on this planet, it is contained in water.” — LOREN EISELEY, 1957
THE WATER ISSUE
ESCA PE • E X PLOR E • E X PER IENCE
40 OF OUR FAVORITE PLACES
TO EAT, SLEEP AND PLAY ON THE WATER
O F WAT E R
by Craig Childs
2 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 1
• POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE
◗ Rafters float at mile 31 of the Colorado River, be-neath
a wall of red limestone. | TOM BROWNOLD
FRONT COVER Writer Lawrence Cheek navigates
Lake Mohave, part of Lake Mead National Recreation
Area in Northwestern Arizona. | KERRICK JAMES
BACK COVER The wake from a boat creates texture
in the cloud-reflecting waters of Lake Powell.
| NICK BEREZENKO
2 EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR 56 WHERE IS THIS?
5 THE JOURNAL
People, places and things from around the state, includ-ing
a piece of Flagstaff history you may have never heard
before; the oldest lodge in Arizona; and Snowflake, our
hometown of the month.
18 GET YOUR FEET WET
There are several ways to cool off when the summer heat
starts getting unbearable: crank the A/C, ride a Zamboni,
dip your toes in the water. Because the first option can be
expensive, and the second is hard to find, we suggest No. 3.
Although Arizona isn’t known for its lakes and rivers, they do
exist, and they offer all kinds of recreational opportunities.
BY LORI K. BAKER
26 ON THE WATERFRONT
Peanut butter and jelly. Macaroni and cheese. Summer and
beaches. Some things just go together. Of course, Arizona
doesn’t have many beaches, per se, but it does have some
breathtaking lakes, rivers and streams, many of which
include places to eat and sleep right on the water.
BY KATHY MONTGOMERY
30 IT’S MOSTLY WATER
Minnesota has 10,000 lakes. Maybe more. California,
Oregon and Washington have impressive Pacific coastlines.
Florida has the Everglades. Even Texas has the Gulf of Mex-ico.
Here in Arizona, we have water, too. It’s not something
we flaunt on our license plate, but the Grand Canyon State
can hold its own in the water department.
A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA
42 THE UNDERWORLD OF WATER
Many of those who don’t live in Arizona, and many who
do, see this as a mostly waterless state. It can seem like a
parched landscape where even the highland forests are
dry, ready to go up in flames at the drop of a match. But
those people are only seeing what is on the surface. If they
were to go to the right places, they would see what is below
AN ESSAY BY CRAIG CHILDS
46 CURRENT CONDITIONS
The plight of one of the last undammed rivers in the
Southwest has long been recognized. So far, the San Pedro
has escaped the fate of Arizona’s other great rivers, now
dammed, depleted, drying up and desiccated, their once-lush
cottonwood and willow forests all but vanished. Will
the San Pedro escape such a death? And if it dies, what will
die with it?
BY TERRY GREENE STERLING
52 SCENIC DRIVE
North Rim Back Roads: There’s no shortage of scenery on the
road to the North Rim, but the views are even better along
the back roads that lead to Saddle Mountain Wilderness.
54 HIKE OF THE MONTH
North Kaibab Trail: Although this hike can get a little
crowded in July, do it anyway. The trek to Roaring Springs
is about as good as it gets.
GET MORE ONLINE
Visit our website for details on weekend get-aways,
hiking, lodging, dining, photography
workshops, slideshows and more.
Check out our blog for regular posts
on just about anything having to do
with travel in Arizona, including Q&As with
writers and photographers, special events,
bonus photos, sneak peeks at upcoming
issues and more.
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enter trivia contests and receive up-to-the-minute
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photos from around the state.
Photographic Prints Available
Prints of some photographs in this issue are
available for purchase. To view options, visit
www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more
information, call 866-962-1191.
w w w. 2 J U LY 2 0 1 2 a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 3
J U LY 2 0 1 2 V O L . 8 8 , N O . 7
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PRODUCED IN THE USA
PUBLISHER Win Holden
EDITOR Robert Stieve
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TERRY GREENE STERLING
Award-winning writer Terry Greene Sterling has been on
many adventures in her career, but the journey she under-took
for this month’s piece on the San Pedro River (Current
Conditions, page 46) required a ride atop a donkey named
Huckleberry. That was a first. “The river has been restored
here largely due to the retirement of irrigation pumping,”
Sterling says of perhaps the most endangered river in Arizona.
“It is now one of the most beautiful spots in the state, with rich
cottonwood and willow forests, native grasses, and even a
large blue-sky-reflecting beaver pond.” Sterling is a regular
contributor to Arizona Highways. Her work has also appeared
in Rolling Stone, Newsweek and The Washington Post.
Photographer Kerrick James has
been admiring nature since childhood,
so it’s no surprise that his favorite
thing to photograph is people explor-ing
the outdoors. “I’ve always loved
nature, as well as trying to convey
the feeling of that natural world —
exploring it and discovering things in
it,” he says. “I love to convey that with
photography.” He shot this month’s
cover on Lake Mohave, which he
finds reminiscent of Baja, California,
where “the desert meets the sea.”
After clambering up a rocky cliff,
James made the cover image as writer
Lawrence Cheek kayaked below him.
James’ images have also appeared in
National Geographic Adventure, Sunset
and Condé Nast Traveler.
Ionce canoed to the Mississippi. It took
a week from my boyhood home on
the Wisconsin River, which is a mile
upstream from Aldo Leopold’s place. My
brother Jeff sat on a homemade wooden
gear box in the middle of our 17-foot
aluminum Grumman. My dad was in the
back seat, and I was up front. Although
it’s been almost 40 years, I can still see
the shoreline — the willow branches
dangling in the water, the bone-white
driftwood on the wet sandbars, the black
turtles on the black rocks, soaking up the
summer sun. As kids, Jeff and I had a lot
of Huck-and-Tom adventures, but that
long canoe trip was the best. Because of
who was there, and because of the river.
Laura Gilpin, one of the premier pho-tographers
of Hopis and Navajos in the
early 20th century, once wrote: “A river
seems a magic thing. A magic, moving,
living part of the very Earth itself.” I’ve
experienced that magic on the Wiscon-sin
River. I’ve also experienced it on the
beautiful rivers in Arizona: San Pedro,
Salt, Colorado, Verde, Black, Blue. Water
is to be expected in Wisconsin. Not in
Arizona. Still, the Grand Canyon State
is a great place to get wet, and that’s the
point of this month’s issue. It’s all about
our water. Streams, creeks, lakes and
Of those, the Colorado River is prob-ably
most impressive. To see the Canyon
from down on the river ranks right up
there with climbing K2 and sea-kayaking
with humpback whales. But rafting the
Colorado isn’t cheap, and space is lim-ited.
A good alternative is a canoe trip
through Glen Canyon — from the dam
of the same name to Lees Ferry. It’s a
15-mile run over long stretches of calm
water, flanked by vertical walls of tower-ing
In Get Your Feet Wet, we’ll tell you about
Glen Canyon and 11 other places to play
in and around the water. It’s a mixed
bag of paddling, bird-watching, hiking,
biking, fishing. If none of those things
float your boat, maybe a creekside cot-tage
at L’Auberge will get your attention.
Or gourmet sandwiches in Aravaipa
Canyon. Or afternoon
tea at Garland’s. In
On the Waterfront, we
feature some of our
favorite places to eat
and sleep to a natural
soundtrack of running
water. In The Under-world
of Water, Craig
Childs writes about
where that water
His essay begins
with this: “On the
driest summer days,
I find myself think-ing
of all the water sitting in silence far
underground. This is the water we tap
with wells, the labyrinths of aquifers
and water tables, subterranean rivers
slowly pushing their way through solid
stone, and great lakes soaking the spaces
between deeply buried sand grains.
Some of the water came from glaciers
that melted many thousands of years ago,
some of it from rain that fell only weeks
A couple of years ago, Craig wrote
another essay for us about water. The
subject was tinajas, which are small
puddles that shelter microscopic worlds
of living organisms. Only Craig Childs
could make something like that read like
Steinbeck. He does the same thing in this
month’s essay about groundwater. As you
read his words, enjoy their poetic nature,
think about the importance of what he’s
saying, and then flip to Terry Greene
Sterling’s excellent piece on the endan-gered
San Pedro River.
If any river in Arizona epitomizes Ms.
Gilpin’s magic, it’s the San Pedro, one of
the last undammed rivers in the South-west.
That’s an important distinction,
because, as Terry points out, the fates
of millions of migratory birds are tied
to the San Pedro, as well as hundreds of
species of plants, insects, mammals, rep-tiles,
fish and amphibians.
The river is at risk, primarily because
of excessive groundwater-pumping in
Sierra Vista. Fortunately, most everyone
what’s at stake and is
working to find some
kind of solution. How-ever,
as Terry writes
in Current Conditions:
efforts are needed, and
believe that without
further restoration of
groundwater, the river
will be dead by 2100.
Others are optimistic
that the needs of the
river, and the people
who rely on its groundwater supply, can
Let’s hope for the latter. Although the
San Pedro won’t take you to the Missis-sippi,
it is a “magic, moving, living part
of the very Earth itself,” and that’s worth
protecting. Not just for the birds, but for
anyone with a 17-foot Grumman canoe.
COMING IN AUGUST
Next month, in our annual Best of
Arizona issue, we’ll be presenting our
version of “31 Things to Do in Arizona
Before You Die,” one of which is Havasu
Falls (above). Before we tell you about the
rest of ours, we’d like to hear about some
of yours. Send us an email or visit us on
KRISTIN HAYWARD, KBH PHOTOGRAPHY
A 17-Foot Grumman Canoe
ROBERT STIEVE, editor
Follow me on Twitter: @azhighways
If you like what you see in this
magazine every month, check out
Arizona Highways Television, an
Emmy Award-winning program
hosted by former news anchor Robin
Sewell. For broadcast times, visit
our website, www.arizonahighways.
com, and click the Arizona Highways
Television link on our home page.
LORI K. BAKER
As an Arizona native, writer Lori K.
Baker is used to the rarity of water in
the Phoenix area. But in writing this
month’s cover story (Get Your Feet
Wet, page 18), she discovered there
are bodies of water in every corner of
the state. “We always go to the places
everyone knows about,” Baker says.
“But it was exciting to find out-of-the-
way lakes and rivers where you
can have a bit of seclusion and quiet.”
Baker’s first story for Arizona Highways
— in 2003 — was another story about
water, one that detailed the 100-year
history of the Salt River Project.
— MOLLY J. SMITH
DEREK VON BRIESEN
w w w. 4 J U LY 2 0 1 2 a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 5
Thank you for the wonderful article
[The Family That Plays Together, May
2012]. We’ve gotten the most positive
response and genuine interest in a
large way. You gave us credibility and
respect, and that goes a long way in the
entertainment field. Makes me want to
write a song about you guys.
Connie Burnett, Flagstaff
On page 41 of the February 2012 issue
is a picture taken in front of the Bright
Angel Lodge that shows a 1904 one-cylinder
Curved Dash Oldsmobile. The
owner of that car was George Green,
who was standing just behind the car,
and his wife Jennie, who was wearing
a scarf. They were driving across the
United States in 1938, traveling about
7,000 miles round-trip. The Greens lived
in Lambertville, Pennsylvania, where
George had a small machine shop. One
of his specialties was restoring one-cylinder
Oldsmobiles built between
1901 and 1907. He purchased that 1904
Oldsmobile in 1907, and used it until his
Gary Hoonsbeen, Minneapolis
AN UTTER OPINION
I loved the article [Mini Moos] in the
May 2012 issue, but would like to cor-rect
the statement about mini moos
being the cows of our ancestors. Cows
have been traced using DNA evidence
to domestication of the wild Auruch.
The Auruch and early cows were larger
than current cows. I would think that
mini moos are more likely the result
of recent boutique breeding than the
milk-cow breeds that have been bred
for production for many generations.
John Trimble, Kingston, Tennessee
Having been a young lad on a Min-nesota
dairy in the early 1940s, I know
that Robyn Hutchison’s miniature
Jersey cows [Mini Moos, May 2012] are
not the size of “regular” Jersey cows
at the end of World War II. Although
not large bovines (as compared, for
example, to Holsteins), the Jerseys on
our farm would not be mistaken for
the much smaller miniature Jerseys,
which, as noted correctly in the article,
are “a breed of their own.” Originally
bred on the English Isle of Jersey,
miniature Jerseys were imported into
this country as early as the 1600s, and
“heritage” (i.e., registered) miniature
Jerseys began arriving here in the mid-
1800s. And, contrary to the claim in the
article that miniature Jerseys “are the
cows our ancestors knew,” it is likely
that more people knew “regular size”
Jerseys, as I did as a youngster. The
lineage distinction is not an earthshak-ing
historical footnote, but, neverthe-less,
one I think worth sharing with
Jim Shaver, Montana City, Montana
I just wanted to let you know that my
1968-1969 copies of Arizona Highways
are once again in use. After a family
trip out West in 1966, my parents got
me a subscription to your magazine. I
received the magazine, and faithfully
read about and cherished the beauty
of your state. Although I dreamed of
traveling west and marrying a cowboy,
I never made it farther than Indiana.
Now my daughter is in graduate school
and is planning on moving to Arizona
when she graduates. I pulled out my
Arizona Highways magazines, and she’s
having a great time familiarizing herself
with what the state is/was like. I hope
she actually makes it out there so I
can come visit again. Thanks for such
a wonderful magazine — even if I am
40-plus years late in saying it.
Nancy Wile, West Newbury, Massachusetts
I very much enjoy your magazine and
don’t want to sound too nitpicky. How-ever,
in the article She’s a Fox [March
2012], the writer uses the phrase “step
foot” when describing at what point
the kits leave their den. The correct
grammar is “set foot.” My grammar is
not perfect, but I expect close to perfec-tion
in articles that appear in Arizona
Highways. Believe me, I would not even
bother to point this out if I had seen it
in a lower-quality magazine.
Annette Walker, Avondale, Arizona
contact us If you have thoughts or com-ments
about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d
love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@
arizonahigh ways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis
Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information,
THE HILLS ARE ALIVE
Thank you for the beautiful issue on the White
Mountains [May 2012]. As a child, my parents used
to take me camping up there every summer. Like so
many other people, I was horrified as I watched the
news of the Wallow Fire last year. I’m so relieved to
know that not everything was lost. The pictures in
your magazine are spectacular. I especially enjoyed
Paul Gill’s photo of Jacques Marsh. I also enjoyed
your reference to Charlie Clark’s Steakhouse. I have a
lot of great memories of that place.
Kate Richardson, Phoenix
letters to the editor
Flagstaff-based photographer John Running and his daughter, Raechel, were traveling through the
Grand Canyon on the Colorado River when instinct and intuition came together to create this photo-graph.
“I saw the light on this little beach and said to Raechel, ‘There’s a picture,’ ” John says. He cap-tured
the shot, which features his daughter holding an oar, with a 4x5 Crown Graphic press camera.
Information: Grand Canyon Backcountry Information Center, 928-638-7875 or www.nps.gov/grca
THE JOURNAL 07.12
people > local favorites > odd jobs > lodging > photography
history > hometowns > dining > nature > things to do
6 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 7 T H E J O U R N A L
Though Debbie Roberti has been cooking
for 30 years, it wasn’t until 2008 that she
opened Arizona Spice Co. A lifelong fan of
bold flavors, Roberti wanted to provide
all-natural fresh spices to customers. And
with the company’s own food-processing
facility next door to the store, freshness is
guaranteed throughout its line of salsas,
relishes and meat rubs, as well as its soup,
spice and barbecue mixes.
What inspired you to start your com-pany?
Mainly my love for Southwest flavors, and
the fact that you couldn’t find many high-quality
chiles in the area. And when you did
find them, they were expensive. I also can’t
take MSG and food additives very well, so
all of my products are MSG-free.
What kinds of spices do you sell?
We sell chili powders, which are the bases
for most of our mixes. We have mild, me-dium,
hot, chipotle, green chile, etc. — I typi-cally
name them all in accordance with the
main ingredients. I have a popular jalapeño
mix for fish and poultry, and a barbecue
mix that’s good on everything. I have bean
mixes and soup mixes, too.
What’s your favorite flavor?
The Green Ghost seasoning is my favorite. I
use that, and I have it sitting on my dinner
table with salt and pepper. When guests are
over, they always use it. It’s the hottest sea-soning
I make, but it helps enhance the flavor
of anything you put it on. — MOLLY J. SMITH
Arizona Spice Co. is located at 909 E. Main Street
in Mesa. For more information, call 480-632-2168
or visit www.azspiceco.homestead.com.
Chris Gall’s imagination
runs full-steam ahead.
After years of doing what
he does best — creating
illustrations for clients like New York
City’s Metropolitan Transit Authority
and a very well-known Hollywood pro-ducer
(who shall remain nameless), and
writing and illustrating award-winning
children’s books — Gall keeps coming
up with ideas. Good ideas.
“Ideas are the easy part,” he says.
His Tucson-based studio, with its
vaulted ceilings and skylights, is brim-ming
with inspiration. The walls are
covered in his richly hued illustrations.
On one hangs Judgment Day, from his lat-est
tome, The PTD Cocktail Book, a collabo-ration
between Gall and mixologist Jim
Meehan. It’s the artist’s only book for the
21-and-over crowd, and it’s so wonder-fully
disturbing, you’ll want a martini to
help settle your mind.
Everywhere you look, there’s some-thing
to occupy the eye and arouse the
imagination. Gall’s short-wave radio sits
in a nearby corner as a “remnant from
an old hobby.” Old notebooks filled with
ideas lie stacked. Model airplanes dangle
from the ceiling. A vintage telephone sits
on a stool.
Random. Eclectic. Colorful.
Gall wants to tap into your imagina-tion
with his art. Is something going
on beyond what you see? Is there some
greater story or reality? It’s certainly easy
to get lost in the details, but for Gall, the
easy ideas come fast and furiously — like
the time he was driving on Interstate 10
and conceptualized his book, Dinotrux.
Just like that.
“I saw these giant earth movers mak-ing
all of this noise and it reminded me
instantly of dinosaurs,” he explains.
“What if they were dinosaurs? What if,
unbeknown to mankind, trucks weren’t
trucks, but instead they evolved from a
Gall came home, Googled his idea,
and determined that no one had thought
to write a children’s book about bionic
dinosaurs. The book hit shelves in 2009,
and its sequel, Revenge of the Dinotrux, came
out last May.
Call it the Chris Gall effect.
As a kid growing up in Phoenix, he
dreamed of doing it all. “I wanted to be
everything,” he says. “A spy, an astronaut,
a geologist, an undersea explorer.” He
also liked making something out of noth-ing.
In college, he would spend weekends
looking for “weird things” in junkyards.
After graduating from the University of
Arizona, Gall took a job at an advertising
agency, and also freelanced as a cover
designer for Tucson Weekly.
Although the side gig didn’t pay much,
it gave him the chance to experiment
with different styles. “They let me do
whatever I wanted,” he says. Eventually, a
cover for Newsweek earned him an award
from Communication Arts magazine. Not
long after, opportunity knocked — loudly
— in the form of an agent from New York.
Thanks to fax machines and FedEx’s
next-day delivery, Gall garnered clients
across the country without having to
leave Arizona. “I’m a big outdoors per-son,
and everything that is ‘West’ is here,
which I love so much,” he says.
As Gall’s career soared — his work
has appeared in Time, The New York Times,
Fortune and The Washington Post, as well
as at Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport’s east
economy parking lot and on labels for
Tucson-based Nimbus Brewery — he
rediscovered another passion: writing.
Gall had a strong literary influence
when he was a child. His grandmother
was a librarian and a good friend of Mau-rice
Sendak’s, so he had a smorgasbord
of books — including Sendak’s — to
devour. In college, he took up creative
writing and, years later, pursued stand-up
“I was really enjoying writing all of
this funny stuff. [The process] got me
thinking about what I could do with it.”
Gall’s first book was inspired by a
poem written by his great-great-aunt
Katharine Lee Bates. The poem was Amer-ica
“Getting published is difficult, but I
came up with this idea to do an illus-trated
book to the words of America the
Beautiful,” he says. “It was a good hook for
publishers, and an interesting angle to
reinterpreting the poem.”
The book was a success. Publishers
Weekly named America the Beautiful one of
its best children’s books of 2004. Gall
went on to produce Dear Fish, Substi-tute
Creacher, There’s Nothing to Do on Mars
(inspired by Sedona’s red rocks) and his
Dinotrux series. He has at least three other
books on the horizon, including Awesome
Dawson, about a boy with MacGyver-esque
abilities. It’s due in 2013.
Gall can’t imagine running out of
ideas. After all, he’s the kind of artist
who understands the importance of tak-ing
a concept and turning it on its head.
“Everything has been done,” he says.
“Everything has been thought of. How
are you going to make a meaningful state-ment?”
Gall is straddling two very different
worlds, and he wouldn’t have it any other
way. “I love that I’m still, in some weird
way, being a third-grader. I’m creating
things. I’m putting something together
from nothing that other people notice.
And it’s a career.”
— KATHY RITCHIE
For more information about Chris Gall, visit www.chrisgall.com.
There are many ways to get on the cover of Newsweek — solve pi, become president,
capture Sasquatch. Chris Gall of Tucson found another way. He used his talents
as an illustrator, which also landed him in Time, Fortune and The Washington Post.
And then he started thinking about robot-dinosaurs and a giant green teacher-squid.
Chris Gall’s creations
is a project for New
‘‘I wanted to be everything:
a spy, an astronaut,
a geologist, an undersea
MOLLY J. SMITH
8 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 9 T H E J O U R N A L
Leticia Elias is something of a pioneer in the
arena of girl bands. In 1989, Elias, her sisters and
a cousin founded Mariachi Las Perlitas Tapatias,
an all-female mariachi band in Guadalajara,
Mexico. “We had a love for mariachi since we
were little,” Elias says. Despite growing up with
the sounds of mariachi all around them, the girls
hadn’t touched musical instruments until they
started the group. And if that weren’t daunting
enough, they faced another hurdle: breaking
into a world dominated by men. “We had a hard
time at the beginning,” Elias admits. “Now, the
men recognize our work.” Today, Elias lives in
Chandler with her husband and two children,
and she directs another group called Mariachi
Tierra Linda. “We have boys, too,” she points out.
An older sister keeps the Las Perlitas torch lit.
“Music for me is everything; it’s my therapy,” Elias
says. “When I sing and play and I see the people’s
faces, I am so happy.”
— KATHY RITCHIE
Leticia Elias, Chandler
For more information about Mariachi Tierra Linda, call
480-227-4062 or visit www.mariachitierralinda.net.
10 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 11 T H E J O U R N A L To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography.asp.
We get a lot of questions about the use of HDR (high dynamic range) in photography. This shooting style has been around
for a while, and is getting more popular. To achieve the look, most photographers take several photos of the same scene,
using — at a minimum — three exposures: one stop overexposed, one stop underexposed and a correct exposure. The im-ages
are then merged into a single photograph using software such as Photoshop, Photomatix or Nik. The resulting image
features a wider range of tonal values over that of a single digital capture. If you want to try this technique, think about
photographing something that doesn’t move, like landscapes or architecture. Then look for a scene with a huge range of
contrast — lots of shadows and highlights. Use a tripod for best results, and if your camera allows, capture your photo-graphs
as RAW files rather than JPEGs. Doing so will result in more tonal range with every image. — JEFF KIDA, PHOTO EDITOR
The ABCs of HDR
The Butler Does It
John Wayne slept here, but that’s not why Molly Butler Lodge is so popular.
It’s a favorite because of its rustic accommodations, beer, pool, gossip,
Wednesday-night poker and hearty, comfort-food dinners. And it’s in Greer.
For more lodging in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/travel/lodging.asp.
TIM FULLER Molly Butler Lodge, which offi-cially
opened in 1910, two years
before statehood, is the oldest
continually operating lodge
in Arizona. And get this: John Wayne slept
here. Teddy Roosevelt, Herbert
Hoover and Zane Grey also
bunked with Molly and family,
alongside legions of frontiers-men
who came to the White Mountains to
hunt, trap and fish in the early 1900s.
Back in the day, the tiny Mormon settle-ment
(later known as Greer) in which the
Butlers lived offered pristine woodlands,
verdant meadows and the Little Colorado
River, which teemed with trout. But the
town offered little in the way of creature
comforts, so visitors agreed to do chores
around John and Molly Butler’s home-stead
in exchange for a hot meal and
a roof over their heads. In 1910, Molly’s
enterprising daughter, Hannah, suggested
the family start charging visitors 25 cents
per meal. The Butler Lodge was born.
Molly passed away in the 1960s, and
Hannah built an updated but still rustic
structure on the site of the original family
home a decade later, creating two dining
rooms, a bar, a cozy fireplace-furnished
anteroom and four small guestrooms. She
renamed the business Molly Butler Lodge.
When Allan Johnson bought the prop-erty
five years ago, he soon learned that
the lodge remained the heart and soul of
this small community (population 147),
which explodes to between 2,500 and
3,000 heat-crazed people come summer.
These days, locals still drop in for beer,
pool, gossip, Wednesday-night poker and
hearty, comfort-food dinners (including
exceptional prime rib chili, culled from the
White House cookbook Hoover left to the
Butlers as a gift).
Visitors are more likely to be lured by the
shaded front deck, which boasts a massive
stone fireplace and spectacular views; the
game room, featuring competition shuffle-board
and a 64-inch TV with Nintendo Wii;
and a never-ending roster of events, includ-ing
live music every weekend. For folks who
relish being in the thick of it, the cowboy-chic
guestrooms attached to the lodge are
irresistible ($75-$125). Decorated with re-claimed
wood, cowboy artifacts, pressed-tin
ceilings, trendy lamps and plush retro
pillows, they’re snug, hip and dangerously
convenient to the bar. For lovers of peace,
quiet and privacy, the lodge also offers 50
anything-but-cookie-cutter rental cabins
— some small and rustic, others commodi-ous
and luxurious ($95-$595). By the end
of 2012, renovation of The Longhouse (one
of the original buildings) will be complete,
offering four luxury suites decorated in
period style. Wouldn’t Molly be proud?
— NIKKI BUCHANAN
Molly Butler Lodge is located at 109 E. Main Street
in Greer. The Lodge Chop House, open every day but
Thanksgiving and Christmas, serves dinner only, start-ing
at 5 pm. For more information, call 928-735-7617 or
The photo at left is a single image made in RAW. The image at right was made in HDR and RAW, created from three separate photos.
JEFF KIDA (2)
Look for our book
at bookstores and
Some cameras have
up to 51 focus points
that can be individually
selected, allowing you
to focus on almost
any part of the frame.
But, sometimes even
these don’t cover the
area you would like, or
your camera doesn’t
have 51 points. This is
where focus lock comes
into play. If you place
a focus point over your
subject and press the
shutter button halfway,
the camera will focus
on that point but won’t
take a photo. While
holding the button
your photo, then push
the button all the way
down to make your im-age.
the image and hold
the “AF-L” button on
the back of the camera
to stay locked on while
Enter our monthly caption contest
by scanning this QR code or visiting
12 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 13 T H E J O U R N A L
SOMETHING ABOUT THE HOUSES IN SNOWFLAKE resonates with JoAnne Gude-rian,
owner of the Heritage Inn. They remind her of home. “Being British, I really recognize
the English feel that these homes have,” she says. “They’re built with brick, and they
even have white picket fences. People enjoy the mature trees and green grass and the
horses grazing in the fields.”
Indeed, Snowflake retains a certain bucolic charm, thanks in large part to its Mormon
heritage. Founded by settlers Erastus Snow and William Flake in 1878, the town is home
to historic pioneer homes — Stinson, Flake and Freeman, to name a few — as well as a
massive Latter-Day Saints temple.
“I think what visitors love is the history here, the pioneer spirit that lives on,” Guderian
says. “Think: Just over 100 years ago, back in the late 1870s, nothing existed in the Silver
Creek Valley, and now we have a thriving community.” — KELLY KRAMER
30.9 square miles
E L E VAT ION
INFORMAT ION: Town of Snowflake, 928-536-7103 or www.ci.snowflake.az.us; Heritage Inn,
866-486-5947 or www.heritage-inn.net; Heritage Antiques, 928-536-3741
Making a Name for Itself
Because of its proximity to the Grand Canyon and its address on Historic Route 66,
Flagstaff is well-known around the world. There was a time, however, when it took
hyperbole to get people to the Northern Arizona town with the unusual name.
The White Mountain
Apaches were the
focus of our July 1962
issue. Apaches from
the Fort Apache
had recently begun
in the area. Our issue
reported on their new
source of income,
along with the history
behind the tribe.
You might say Flag-staff
was built on
1876, a man named
Samuel Woodworth Coz-zens
wrote a book titled The
Marvelous Country. “You’d call
it a travel book today,” says
Leslie Roe, director of the
Pioneer Museum and Riordan
Mansion in Flagstaff. Unfor-tunately,
the book was more
fiction than fact. “It made a
lot of claims and he told it in
the first person, as though he
experienced it,” he says. It
later came to light that Coz-zens
had never visited North-ern
Arizona. Despite that, the
author ventured to cities like
Boston, where he promoted
his book. His wild claims eventually
lured one group — the Boston Party —
Some 20 years after Lieutenant Edward
Beale had carved out a trail through the
area, the Boston Party arrived and built a
camp near the base of the San Francisco
Peaks. Alas, their stay was brief and they
moved on. “They tried to build a town
and farm crops, but they arrived so late
in the growing season it was a dismal
failure,” explains Joe Meehan, curator of
the Pioneer Museum. The party, however,
left its mark. To commemorate the coun-try’s
centennial, they stripped a pine tree
and raised a flag. Some say that’s how the
town got its name.
Years later, nearby Antelope Springs
was intended to be the railroad stop for
the area. But because it was built on a
slope, trains going west couldn’t gain
enough momentum to go uphill, so the
railroad placed the stop 1 mile east.
When a post office was established
there, it was given the name “Flagstaff.”
As the railroad boomed, so did the
town’s population, and today, Flagstaff is
one of the premier tourist destinations in
— KATHY RITCHIE
50 Years Ago
NORTHERN ARIZONA UNIVERSITY, CLINE LIBRARY
■ Warren Earp,
the youngest of
the infamous Earp
brothers, is killed in
an Arizona saloon by
a man named John
Boyett on July 7, 1900.
■ Billy the Kid,
who spent time in
Arizona, is fatally shot
by Sheriff Pat Garrett
at Fort Sumner, New
found dead in Tur-key
Creek Canyon, on
July 14, 1882. Several
men step forward to
died is never
the Republican nomi-nation
on July 15, 1964.
Flagstaff, circa 1883
14 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 15 T H E J O U R N A L
IF YOU PREFER TO DINE in a quiet, medi-tative
space, better keep looking. Westside
Lilo’s Café treats mealtime as a celebration,
to be enjoyed in a bustling,
The clatter of plates and
rattle of cups add percus-sion
notes to the chorus of table-to-table
conversations and echoing laughter.
Local ranchers and townsfolk chat-ter
back and forth and banter with the
friendly staff. Seems like everybody
knows each other. Then you catch the
flurry of accents — even different lan-guages
— adding to the general hub-bub.
Jackets worn by a group of bikers
indicate they’re from France. A couple
from Australia poses with the mounted
elk head. And the Japanese family breaks
out in shrieks when giant plate-draping
cinnamon rolls are brought to their table.
Everyone is local at Lilo’s, even if they
traveled across the globe to be there.
A small town set amid the high plains
of Northern Arizona doesn’t seem a likely
spot for a family restaurant to grow into
an internationally known eatery. Yet
that’s the story of Westside Lilo’s Café.
Of course, it helps that the small town
is Seligman, birthplace of Historic Route
66. Since the preservation movement of the
iconic highway began here, Seligman has
become holy ground for legions of travelers.
German-born Lilo Russell slings the
kind of homemade grub that keeps every-one
coming back for more. She opened
the restaurant in 1996 with the help of
her husband, Patrick, and daughters,
Brenda and Nancy.
Burly breakfast platters, fork-tender
steaks and juicy Black Angus burgers fill
the menu, along with some surprises.
The nachos are a spicy avalanche of pork,
green chiles and cheese atop fresh-cut
tortilla chips. Lilo’s sauerkraut is made in-house
with juniper berries and displays a
sassy tartness that prompts customers to
bring in glass jars for take-home portions.
Yet the restaurant might be best
known for its decadent desserts. Lilo
bakes an assortment of cream pies daily,
using mascarpone cheese — the same
cheese used in tiramisu — infusing them
with a defiant silkiness. Unlike some
cream pies that quiver and collapse at the
first touch of a fork, Lilo’s are as luxuri-ous
in texture as they are in taste.
The carrot cake proves to be her
masterpiece: a towering slab, incredibly
moist, flavorful and packed with enough
carrots to make Bugs Bunny swoon.
There’s been so much demand it can
now be purchased online. Imagine that:
a sweet taste of the open road delivered
right to your door. — ROGER NAYLOR
Hubbub and Grub
Things can get loud at Lilo’s Café — clattering plates, rattling cups, table-to-table
conversations — and that’s the way the hordes of hungry tourists like it. They like the homemade
food, too, especially the burgers, sauerkraut and towering slabs of carrot cake.
Westside Lilo’s Café is located at 22855 W. Route 66 in
Seligman. For more information, call 928-422-5456 or
For more dining in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/travel/dining.asp.
TED MACRAE TOM BRENNAN
You don’t have to
travel to the wilder-ness
to see a Western
painted turtle. These aquatic
creatures, indigenous to
the Lyman Lake area of
Northeastern Arizona, are
now found in canals and res-ervoirs
near Phoenix, Tucson
Western painted turtles
spend their days basking on
rocks, logs and mudbanks in
bales, or groups, of a dozen.
Temperature regulation via
sunlight helps support diges-tion.
Similar to most water
turtles, Western painted
turtles have a fixed tongue
that requires them to catch
and eat food underwater.
Bright red and yellow
markings adorn this olive-green
turtle. The edges of its
flat, smooth shell shine with
both hues. Yellow stripes
cover its head, while red
stripes line its legs. Males are
smaller than females.
These turtles are most
active from March to October
and mate in the spring and fall.
Each season, females can lay
as many as four clutches of
eggs. Shallow nests dug into
pond banks protect the eggs.
Human actions, including
development and pesticide
use, threaten to harm
Western painted turtle habi-tat.
This vibrantly colored
species is also sometimes
exploited in the pet trade.
— LEAH DURAN
There are more than 1,500 known species of tiger beetles, and more than
40 of those species reside in the Sulphur Springs Valley of Southeastern
Arizona. Generally, you can identify tiger beetles by their large eyes, 11 an-tennae
and sickle-like mandibles. Their colors range from gray and black
to brilliant green, violet and orange. The insects are commonly found in
sandy riparian areas or mudflats.
Western Painted Turtle
Females may lay as
many as four clutches
of 25 eggs per season.
can grow as
long as 10
feed on insects,
crayfish, frogs and
16 J U LY 2 0 1 2 T H E J O U R N A L
August 12-16, Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon’s spec-tacular
vistas have inspired
artists and photographers
for more than a century.
Now, join Photoshop expert
Steve Burger and former
Arizona Highways photo
editor J. Peter Mortimer for a
chance to photograph one of
the Seven Natural Wonders
of the World. This workshop
offers an opportunity to
learn how to capture profes-sional
photos and turn them
into magazine-quality shots
using Photoshop. Informa-tion:
Art in the Park
June 30-July 2, Flagstaff
Celebrate America’s independence
at this juried fine arts and crafts
show. Enjoy live music, food booths,
children’s activities and more.
Information: 928-556-9498 or www.
High Country Hummers Festival
July 28, Eagar
This annual nature festival is designed
to educate the public about the history
of hummingbirds in Arizona’s higher-elevation
forests. In addition to inter-acting
with hummingbird researchers,
visitors can browse exhibition booths,
enjoy a bird walk, watch slideshows,
explore wildlife habitats and more.
Sounds of Kingman
July 1, Kingman
Listen to the sweet sounds of summer
at this annual summer concert series,
during which musicians from all
walks of life gather at Metcalfe Park
to perform live for the public. Sounds
of Kingman is a not-for-profit group
dedicated to cultivating live enter-tainment
and supporting the arts.
Information: 928-530-6731 or www.
July 14, Pinetop
Chili is a big deal in our state, and the
best way to sample it is to attend a
cook-off. More than 45 chili cooks
are expected at this event, where
they’ll be offering visitors samples
of some of the best chili around.
Besides good eats, plan on local arts
and crafts vendors and live music.
Information: 480-299-6738 or www.
National Day of the Cowboy
July 28, Cottonwood
Celebrate the heritage and history of
the cowboy and the American West
through re-enactments, storytelling,
period costumes, artifacts and props.
Visitors can also enjoy blacksmithing,
leather-crafting and knife-making
demonstrations. Information: www.
June 29-July 4, Prescott
Prescott will be teeming with cowboys and cowgirls ready to show off their skills as
the World’s Oldest Rodeo marks its 125th birthday. After checking out the rodeo, stop
by the 32nd Annual Prescott Rodeo Days Fine Arts and Crafts Show, which features
artisans from across the state and the Southwest. Information: 928-443-5220, www.
worldsoldestrodeo.com or www.prescottdowntown.com
things to do
For Independence Day events across
Arizona, scan this QR code or visit www.
To order an official Arizona Highways license
plate, visit www.arizonahighways.com and
click the license-plate icon on our home
page. Proceeds help support our mission of
promoting tourism in Arizona.
Mind If We
The state of Arizona gave us
our own license plate, and we’d
like you to take us for a ride.
18 J U LY 2 0 1 2
Get Your Feet Wet There are several ways to cool off when the
summer heat starts getting unbearable:
crank the A/C, ride a Zamboni, dip your toes
in the water. Because the first option can be
expensive, and the second is hard to find, we
suggest No. 3. Although Arizona isn’t known
for its lakes and rivers, they do exist, and they
offer all kinds of recreational opportunities.
BY LORI K. BAKER
w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 19
A summer monsoon rain spatters the
Colorado River several miles below Glen
Canyon Dam. | GARY LADD
20 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 21
Riding in a rubber raft as it
smashes into roiling whitewater
isn’t everyone’s idea of a good
time. For everyone else, there’s
a gentler side to the Colorado
River, and it’s located along a
15-mile stretch that runs from
Glen Canyon Dam to Lees Ferry.
(There’s no put-in at the dam, so
you’ll have to launch at Lees Fer-ry,
and then get a tow upstream,
either from friends or the outfit-ters
at Colorado River Discovery.)
As your kayak or canoe plies
through long, placid stretches
of flatwater, flanked by vertical
walls of ancient Navajo sand-stone
that towers 1,200 feet
high, you’ll discover the glories
of the intricate, multihued Glen
Canyon — 1,000-year-old petro-glyph
panels of the Anasazis,
waterfalls tumbling out of rock
walls, and hanging gardens of
spring-fed plants clinging to
vertical cliff walls. While the
Lees Ferry Campground offers
picnic facilities, the River Trail
provides a quick jaunt along the
water, and also serves as the
starting point for the Spencer
Trail, a challenging, 2.2-mile hike
that includes a rocky climb up
Directions: From Flagstaff,
drive north on U.S. Route 89 for
approximately 110 miles to U.S.
Route 89A, turn left, and head
toward Marble Canyon. Continue
1 mile past the Marble Canyon
Bridge, turn right onto Lees Ferry
Road, and follow the signs to
the boat landing.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Glen Canyon
National Recreation Area, 928-
608-6200 or www.nps.gov/
glca; Colorado River Discovery,
888-522-6644 or www.raftthe
For anyone in need of a sum-mer
respite, nothing beats an
afternoon along a pristine body
of water like Hawley Lake, which
is considered one of the coolest
spots in the state. The lake is
located on the White Mountain
Apache Indian Reservation,
where a boat dock with boat
rentals sets the stage for explor-ing
Directions: From Pinetop-Lake-side,
drive southeast on State
Route 260 for approximately
11 miles to State Route 473, turn
south, and continue 11 miles to
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: White Mountain
Apache Tribe, 928-338-4346 or
Beyond Sedona’s artsy glitz and
New Age allure are some of the
world’s most impressive natural
wonders, including Oak Creek
Canyon, a creekside habitat
where Arizona sycamores,
cottonwoods, willows and
pines wrestle for water rights
alongside manzanitas, scrub
oaks and silk tassels. One of the
best stretches of the creek is the
Indian Gardens run. On those
rare days when the creek trans-forms
into a river (optimally 400
to 600 cubic feet per second, or
cfs), the run offers paddlers an
opportunity to test their mettle
with Class IV full-on adventure.
The put-in at Indian Gardens is
located just downstream from
the confluence of Munds Canyon.
Below Trout Farm Bridge, the
route cuts through Compound
Fracture, where the creek drops
and makes a short right turn
against a rock wall. The creek
then splits at Supai Surf and
leads to a forested gravel bar
nicknamed Pick Your Poison,
before arriving at the take-out
in Sedona at the State Route
179 bridge. Picnic facilities are
available at nearby Grasshopper
Point, and area hikes include
Casner Canyon and Wilson.
Directions: From Sedona, drive
north on State Route 89A to In-dian
Gardens, which is 4.6 miles
north of the SR 179 bridge.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Coconino National
Forest, 928-203-2900 or www.
Ever wonder how Kinnikinick
Lake got its name? A forest
ranger told us it’s named after
a type of plant that’s native to
the area — one that’s rumored
to have strong medicinal powers.
Surrounded by a juniper forest
Hawley Lake is one of the
White Mountains’ coolest
spots, at 8,200 feet in
elevation. | PAUL GILL
A kayaker navigates
rapids on Oak Creek during
a high-water period.
| DEREK VON BRIESEN
22 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 23
sandstone buttes and slopes of
Joshua trees as it offers white-water
kayakers and rafters Class
II and Class III thrills, mostly
formed by boulder gardens. A
standout rapid called Big Ten
(Class IV at some cfs levels) is
followed by a series of rapids
called the Back Nine as the river
weaves beneath Interstate 15
in a tight canyon. Next comes
a significant drop at the mouth
of the gorge called Let’s Make
a Deal. A minimum flow for the
run is about 400 cfs, with the
ideal being from 800 to 1,500
cfs. In addition to a wild ride, the
Virgin River Canyon Recreation
Area offers some great spots
for picnicking, as well as a short
interpretive trail that circles the
Directions: Access to the Virgin
River Canyon Recreation Area is
located off Interstate 15, about
20 miles west of St. George,
Utah. Take the Cedar Pockets
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Bureau of Land
Management, 801-628-4491 or
A picture-postcard panorama of
towering ponderosas and piñon
pines awaits visitors to Lynx
Lake in the Prescott National
Forest. The 55-acre lake beck-ons
hikers, canoeists, anglers
and bird-watchers to explore
the area. Canoes and rowboats
are available for rent at the Lynx
Store and Marina, while a 2-mile
loop around the lake, which is
paved and wheelchair-accessi-ble
on the west side, invites a
casual stroll through the trees.
Directions: From Prescott,
drive south on Walker Road and
follow the signs to the Lynx Lake
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Prescott National
Forest, 928-443-8000 or www.
Willow Springs Lake
Woods Canyon Lake gets most
of the attention on the Mogollon
Rim, but Willow Springs is equal-ly
appealing to kayakers, canoe-ists
and motorized boaters (10
horsepower or less) who want
to chill out in a cool ponderosa
pine forest. The lake can also
be enjoyed along the Willow
Springs Loop, a relatively short,
easy hike or mountain-bike ride
through thickets of ponderosa
pines and quaking aspens.
Directions: From Payson, drive
east on State Route 260 for
about 30 miles to Forest Road
149. From there, turn left onto
FR 149 and continue for 1 mile
to the lake, which is where the
trailhead and boat landing are
Vehicle Requirements: None
Sitgreaves National Forests,
928-333-4301 or www.fs.usda.
with long views of the San Fran-cisco
Peaks, Kinnikinick Lake is
an ideal spot to fish for trout or
tool around in a kayak, canoe
or low-horsepower motorboat.
If the trout elude you, Mother
Nature might reward you with
glimpses of ospreys, great
blue herons, bald eagles, elk or
Directions: From Flagstaff,
drive south on Forest Highway 3
(Lake Mary Road) for 30 miles to
Forest Road 125. Turn left onto
FR 125 and drive 4 miles to For-est
Road 82. Turn right onto
FR 82 and continue 5.5 miles to
the campground and boat ramp.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Coconino National
Forest, 928-526-0866 or www.
Although it’s not as secluded
as Atlantis, Carnero Lake is still
a great place to escape the
crowds and enjoy a little peace
and quiet. The lake is tucked
away on the northern edge of
the White Mountains, where its
stillness attracts birds and elk
to its marshy shores. On most
days, you’ll be outnumbered
by wildlife as you kayak, canoe
or boat (electric motors only)
on this shallow mountain lake,
which sits at an elevation of
Directions: From Pinetop-Lake-side,
drive east on State Route
260. Three miles past the turnoff
for Sunrise Park, turn left onto
Forest Road 117, and continue
for 2.5 miles to Forest Road
117A. Turn right onto FR 117A and
continue 3 miles to the turnoff
for Carnero Lake, which is on the
right side of the road.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Sitgreaves National Forests,
928-333-4301 or www.fs.usda.
After spring runoff and summer
thunderstorms, the Virgin River’s
whitewater rapids require a
little faith — in your kayak, your
paddles and maybe yourself —
as you plunge through a spec-tacular
gorge on the Arizona
Strip, an area north of the Grand
Canyon. The river cuts through
dark limestone cliffs, red
LEFT: Carnero Lake is a shallow, weed-filled
site where anglers are known to
catch big fish. | RORY AIKENS
ABOVE: After heavy rains, the Virgin
River plunges through a major gorge,
offering a challenge to kayakers and
rafters. | TYLER WILLIAMS
RIGHT: Lynx Lake, near Prescott,
features a 2-mile perimeter hiking loop.
| JERRY SIEVE
24 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 25
Reminiscent of a place you
might see in the Alps, the small
mountain town of Alpine rests in
a wide, grassy valley (elevation:
8,030 feet) that brims with wild-flowers
in the spring and sum-mer.
Nearby Luna Lake, which
is located 3 miles east of town,
offers quiet opportunities to es-cape
the shoreline in a nonmo-torized
or low-horsepower boat.
While enjoying the stillness of
this 120-acre lake, keep your
binoculars handy — you never
know when one of the resident
bald eagles might swoop down
and catch an unsuspecting fish.
After returning to shore, stroll
the 8-mile Luna Lake Loop, or
enjoy the picnic facilities at Luna
Directions: From Alpine, drive
east on State Route 180 for
4 miles and follow the signs to
Luna Lake, which is located on
the north side of the highway.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Sitgreaves National Forests,
928-333-4301 or www.fs.usda.
Located in Patagonia Lake State
Park, which sits in the shadow
of 9,453-foot Mount Wrightson,
about halfway between Pata-gonia
and Nogales, Patagonia
Lake offers chance encounters
with more than 275 bird species,
including rare birds such as
elegant trogons and vermilion
flycatchers. It also offers high-adrenaline
adventure on the
side of the lake that’s open to
speedboats, and serenity on the
no-wake side, where thickets of
cattails grow along the shoreline.
Off the water, the park features
a picnic area with ramadas,
tables and grills, and a creekside
trail that could lead to more
rare birds: towhees, Inca doves,
black vultures or one of several
species of hummingbirds.
Directions: From Patagonia,
drive southwest on State Route
82 for 11 miles to Patagonia Lake
Road, turn right and follow the
signs for 4 miles to the park.
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Patagonia Lake
State Park, 520-287-6965 or
You might think you’re in Canada
when you get to this out-of-the-way
lake in the White Mountains.
To get there, though, you’ll
need a high-clearance vehicle.
Located on the southern flanks
of Mount Baldy and surrounded
by a green canopy of Engelmann
spruce, blue spruce and quaking
aspens, Reservation Lake fits
snugly into a geographic region
known as the Canadian Zone.
While throngs of Arizonans head
to Big Lake in the summertime,
this lake offers rich rewards of
seclusion and serenity to those
kayakers, canoeists and boaters
(small electric motor trolling
boats, but no gas engines) who
are willing to fight through a few
bumps in the road to get there.
Directions: From Pinetop-
Lakeside, drive east on State
Route 260 for 24 miles to State
Route 273. Turn right onto
SR 273, continue past the Lee
Valley Recreation Area, and
turn right onto Forest Road 116,
which is located at the edge of
the Big Lake Recreation Area.
Continue on FR 116 for another
11 miles to Reservation Lake.
Vehicle Requirements: High-clearance
Information: White Mountain
Apache Tribe, 928-338-4346 or
Riggs Flat Lake
Set in an alpine forest and sur-rounded
by a gorgeous meadow,
11-acre Riggs Flat Lake is more
than just a destination, it’s the
culmination of an adventurous
trek up the Swift Trail, a scenic
road that winds to the top of
the Pinaleño Mountains. The
drive alone is worth the trip, and
it’s cool up top. In fact, when
it’s 100 degrees in the valley
at the base of the mountain, it
might only be 70 degrees at
the lake, which is open to small
boats. If you don’t have one of
those, a nice trail leads into the
surrounding forest and out to a
scenic overlook. Another option
is to enjoy a picnic at one of the
Directions: From Safford, drive
south on U.S. Route 191 for
8 miles to State Route 366 (the
Swift Trail). Turn right onto the
Swift Trail and continue 29 miles
to the Columbine Work Center.
From there, follow Forest Road
803 and Forest Road 287 for
approximately 5 miles to the
campground. The last 12 miles
of this route are narrow and
Vehicle Requirements: None
Information: Coronado Na-tional
Forest, 520-388-8300 or
LEFT: Patagonia Lake has a no-wake zone for quiet paddling and fishing, and another area for speedboats. | GEORGE STOCKING
ABOVE: Riggs Flat Lake is a favored destination for small boats and cool camping in the high elevations of the Pinaleño Mountains near Safford. | RORY AIKENS
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Peanut butter and jelly. Macaroni and
cheese. Summer and beaches. Some things
just go together. Of course, Arizona doesn’t
have many beaches, per se, but it does
have some breathtaking lakes, rivers and
streams, many of which include places to
eat and sleep right on the water. What
follows are a few of our favorites.
BY KATHY MONTGOMERY
L’Auberge de Sedona offers
dining along Oak Creek. | JEFF KIDA
Aravaipa Creek flows like a ribbon through
Aravaipa Farms, a desert oasis planted with
orchards of peaches, apricots and pears. Scotts-dale/
Phoenix Culinary Hall of Fame inductee
Carol Steele added a chicken coop, greenhouse
and organic garden to supply three meals a day
for the “reverse B&B” she envisioned as a culi-nary
experience with dinner as the centerpiece.
Five mesquite-shaded casitas decorated in
“primitive chic” make liberal use of Saltillo tile,
bent-wood furniture and folk art. Steele stocks
these daily with healthful breakfast foods,
including her award-winning coffee cake, and
provides picnic lunches with gourmet sand-wiches
and house-made cookies. Dinner, served
at a long table in a renovated barn, might
feature salmon topped with tomatoes, chiles
and lime, or roasted chicken. It’s all simple, art-ful
and down to earth, an exquisite expression
of Steele’s nature. Information: 520-357-6901 or
Blue Ridge Campground
Coconino National Forest
This tiny campground on the Mogollon Rim is
located on a dirt road near the Arizona Trail,
a few miles from Blue Ridge Reservoir. Phelps
Dodge built the reservoir in 1965. Surrounded
by thick stands of pines and canyon-like forma-tions
of limestone, sandstone and soapstone,
the trout-stocked reservoir is narrow and
winding. It feels more like a river than a lake,
and without currents and rapids, it’s a kayaker’s
dream. The Blue Ridge Campground is open
from May through Labor Day. Its 10 primitive
sites, nestled among ponderosa pines, got a
facelift in 2004. Improvements include fire
rings, grills and uniform, level tent pads held in
place by posts made from compacted recycled
cars. If that doesn’t make you feel thankful,
perhaps the sight of the turkeys that frequent
the campground will. Information: 928-477-2255
Cattail Cove State Park
Those who love Lake Havasu but not the party
scene will appreciate this clean, well-main-tained
jewel of the Arizona State Parks system,
28 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 29
and provides the trout that’s a staple on the
breakfast menu and the soundtrack that lulls
Garland’s guests to sleep at night. Information:
928-282-3343 or www.garlandslodge.com
Originally built as a church retreat, the Greer
Lodge evolved and expanded over six decades
to include 60 guestrooms and cabins scattered
throughout the cool, high-mountain hamlet of
Greer. Today, it offers something for everyone,
from inexpensive, log cabin-style motel rooms
to luxurious, private cabins on 1-acre lots. Many
of them enjoy a view of the Little Colorado
River or one of the lodge’s five private ponds.
All of them come with resort amenities that
include free mountain bikes, kayaks, fly-fishing
tackle and instruction. Sadly, the historic
lodge for which the resort is named and the
original 373 Grill burned to the ground a little
over a year ago. The restaurant reopened in its
current location on Main Street, while the site
of the former lodge awaits its promised resur-rection.
Information: 928-735-7216 or www.
Located 10 miles from Indian Road 18, down
a steep, often sun-exposed trail, Havasu Camp-ground
is not easy to reach, but is well worth
For summer travel ideas, scan
this QR code or visit www.arizona
located about 15 miles south of Lake Havasu
City. The campground is in a lovely spot, with
views of the Whipple Mountains, a swimming
area, boat dock and hiking trails. The 61 camp-ing
and RV sites feel intimate. There’s no food
service in the park, but neighboring Sandpoint
Marina has a café within walking distance. If
you want to feel closer to nature and farther
from your fellow campers, boat out to one
of 28 primitive campsites that lie along the
shoreline 6 miles in each direction. The sandy,
tree-shaded sites are accessible only from the
lake, so the only party on your little stretch of
sand will be your own. Information: 928-855-
1223 or www.azstateparks.com/parks/caco
Oak Creek Canyon
In many ways, Garland’s represents the
sophistication of an earlier age, with no TV,
telephones or cellphone service. Sixteen simple
but graceful cabins dot the 10-acre property,
which is carpeted with lush lawns, overflowing
gardens and fruit orchards. Tea is still served ev-ery
afternoon; cocktails are at 6 p.m., preceding
an elegant, multiple-course dinner in the historic
lodge. All meals are prepared with organic fruits
and vegetables grown on the premises, with
family recipes that have been perfected over
generations. It’s Oak Creek, of course, that cre-ated
the stunning canyon that cradles the prop-erty,
with its red rock and deep, green pines. The
creek still nourishes the grounds and gardens,
the effort. Near the western edge of Grand
Canyon National Park, the famously turquoise
waters of Havasu Creek flow through Havasu
Canyon, threading lush green foliage around
a series of five magnificent waterfalls. The
campground is located between the largest
two: Havasu Falls, with its resort-like swimming
hole, and Mooney Falls, which, at nearly 200
feet, drops farther than Niagara Falls. Camp-sites
offer few amenities beyond a picnic table,
spring water and composting toilets, but are
situated along a lovely, cottonwood-shaded
stretch of the creek. The flash floods of 2008
changed the falls somewhat, but the Havasu-pai
Tribe has done a good job of refurbishing
the campground and rebuilding some retaining
walls until time and nature can restore them.
Information: 928-448-2141, 928-448-2180 or
Lake Havasu City
Situated at the foot of the London Bridge, Heat
Hotel is built to party, with a 4,000-square-foot
bar with shaded cabanas, daily drink
specials and live music. And the boutique hotel
rooms make perfect places to continue the
party. The 800-square-foot Inferno Suites are
the newest additions. A study in white, with
accents of red, gray and black, they contain a
sitting room, bedroom and bathroom separat-ed
by white floor-to-ceiling curtains. Modern,
with glass and chrome lit by recessed L.E.D.
lighting, they feature low-slung, geometric
furniture, 42-inch flat-screen TVs and sliding-glass
doors that open onto the promenade at
water level. A dramatically lit tub fills from the
ceiling, and the frosted glass “party” shower is
the size of a small amphitheater, the perfect
setting to belt out your own rendition of Smoke
on the Water. Information: 888-898-4328 or
L’Auberge de Sedona
When it comes to L’Auberge, it’s tough to say
which is more spectacular, the setting or the
food. Located on 11 meticulously landscaped
acres along the leafy banks of Oak Creek, it’s
hard to imagine a more heavenly location.
Lodging options at the AAA four-diamond
resort include creekside cottages nestled
among the cottonwoods and sycamores, and
newer vista cottages that yield floor-to-ceiling
views of Sedona’s Giant’s Thumb and Elephant
Rock. On the other hand, L’Auberge Restaurant
was included in Condé Nast Traveler’s top 10
restaurants in the Southwest for good reason.
Lucky for you, you don’t have to choose. Sum-mer
is the perfect time to dine on the creekside
continuous stand of ponderosa pines in North
America. For the kids, there’s a small trout
pond and a petting zoo with buffalos, turkeys
and barnyard animals. The whole family can
enjoy horseback-riding and hay-wagon rides,
with free roping competitions on the Fourth
of July and Labor Day. Camp in the 74-site RV
Park and Campground, or choose from lodging
that ranges from motel-style rooms to family
cabins. The lodge is named for nearby Mormon
Lake, one of Arizona’s few natural lakes. The
small, shallow lake fluctuates with weather
conditions, sometimes drying up completely.
But Lake Mary, just 16 miles away, is a good
place to hit the water if playing cowboy doesn’t
float your boat. Information: 928-354-2227 or
Grand Canyon National Park
Phantom Ranch is one of the most surprising
places on Earth. Dirt footpaths wind through
knee-high grasses, and light-green cotton-woods
create a soft contrast to towering,
2 billion-year-old schist. The Colorado River and
Bright Angel Creek have drawn people to this
spot at the bottom of the Grand Canyon for
more than 1,000 years. Pueblo Indians, explor-ers,
miners and tourists all left their marks. The
Fred Harvey Co. hired Mary Colter to design the
original lodge (now the cantina and restaurant)
and guest cabins in 1922. The Civilian Conserva-tion
Corps planted most of the cottonwoods.
Since the 1980s, the National Park Service has
planted hundreds of ash trees, box elders and
seep willows to provide shade and privacy for
the campground that stretches along cool,
clear Bright Angel Creek. The guest cabins are
primitive, but Phantom Ranch is the only place
in the Canyon you’ll find hot water, cold beer
and air conditioning. And with average daily
temperatures around 106 in July, that’s an
unexpected delight. Information: 888-297-2757
patio, where you can enjoy the best of both
worlds. Information: 800-905-5745 or www.
Mormon Lake Lodge
Coconino National Forest
Mormon Lake Lodge is part resort, part
Western family theme park. Its Old West-style
post office, store, saloon, steakhouse and Zane
Grey museum are surrounded by the largest
Cattail Cove State Park features a
swimming area and boat dock, in
addition to views of the Whipple
Mountains. | KERRICK JAMES
Five mesquite-shaded casitas make up
Aravaipa Farms in Winkelman. Aravaipa
Creek runs through the property.
| RANDY PRENTICE
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IT’S MOSTLY WATER
Minnesota has 10,000 lakes. Maybe
more. California, Oregon and
Washington have impressive Pacific
coastlines. Florida has the Everglades.
Even Texas has the Gulf of Mexico. Here
in Arizona, we have water, too. It’s not
something we flaunt on our license
plate, but the Grand Canyon State can
hold its own in the water department.
Lakes, rivers, streams ... this month’s
portfolio is all about our water supply.
A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA
32 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 33
Lake Mary, near
first light over a
Early morning clouds
reflect in Canyon
Lake, located along
the Apache Trail in
Small waterfalls spill over the
red-hued rocks of Powell Canyon.
PRECEDING PANEL: Tree limbs emerge from the still waters of
Catfish Paradise in Havasu National Wildlife Refuge near Topock.
DEREK VON BRIESEN
34 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 35
Late-afternoon sun and
the walls of National
Canyon reflect in the
Colorado River at mile 167.
Gunsight Butte, beyond
the sandy shoreline of
w w w. 36 J U LY 2 0 1 2 a r i z o n a h i g h w a y s . c o m 37
“The mystery of language was revealed to me. I knew
then that W-A-T-E-R meant the wonderful cool something
that was flowing over my hand. That living word
awakened my soul, gave it light, joy, set it free.”
— Helen Keller
38 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 39
PRECEDING PANEL: Cattails emerge from the Verde
River in Dead Horse Ranch State Park, near Jerome.
DEREK VON BRIESEN
Water and red mud
create an intricate
pattern on Lake
Water seeps from
the beach sands of
the Colorado River,
near mile 168,
Fern Glen Canyon.
form over red earth
at Dead Horse Ranch
DEREK VON BRIESEN
40 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 41
LEFT: The cobalt waters
of Upper Lake Mary, near
Flagstaff, create a mirror for a
cluster of smartweed.
ABOVE: A trickle of water reflects
blue sky above North Canyon in
Grand Canyon National Park.
42 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 43
n the driest summer days,
I find myself thinking of
all the water sitting in
silence far underground.
This is the water we tap
with wells, the labyrinths
of aquifers and water tables,
subterranean rivers slowly pushing their way
through solid stone, and great lakes soaking
the spaces between deeply buried sand grains.
Some of the water came from glaciers that
melted many thousands of years ago, some of
it from rain that fell only weeks earlier. This
is the water that comes out of your tap, drawn
up by pumps or leaked into surface-rivers and
reservoirs and carried to you by gravity.
My dad used to take me to this place in
the highlands of east-central Arizona, where
in the side of a canyon he’d lift away a rock
and show me a tiny, trickling stream hidden
Many of those who don’t live in Arizona, and many who do, see this as a mostly waterless
state. It can seem like a parched landscape where even the highland forests are dry, ready
to go up in flames at the drop of a match. But those people are only seeing what is on the
surface. If they were to go to the right places, they would see what is below the surface.
AN ESSAY BY CRAIG CHILDS
below. The rock concealed a small spring tucked in moss, a place where groundwa-ter
touches the surface. He’d found it because the ground was bright green, stand-ing
out among dry ponderosa slopes and rocky outcrops. It was our own place, a
secret in the land, where in the heat of summer we’d gather around the softball-sized
hole like supplicants. Every time we went there, we got down on our knees
I would imagine where this water came from, its journey through fissures and
faults coming to a brief window where a canyon had cut far enough into the ground
to reveal this little passage.
Many of those who don’t live in Arizona, and many who do, see this as a mostly
waterless state. It can seem like a parched landscape where even the highland for-ests
are dry, ready to go up in flames at the drop of a match. But those people are
only seeing what is on the surface. If they were to go to the right places, they would
see what is below the surface.
Arizona is also a state of incisions. Erosion is naturally rampant. The rock-hard
earth is constantly being exposed, canyons cutting deeper as plateaus and hum-ble
mountains push upward from below. Where the ground opens, water stored
deep inside comes out. You can hardly find a canyon without at least a moist rock
face you can kiss for its moisture.
The deeper the land cuts, the more water comes out. So if you want to see the
Elves Chasm, a notable Grand
Canyon stopping place for raf-ters
on the Colorado River, gives
up the water stored in deep un-derground
| SUZANNE MATHIA
44 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 45
most dramatic gushers and leaks, look for the
deepest incision. That would be the Grand
Canyon. The place of springs.
Hundreds of tributary canyons feed into the
Grand Canyon, and in every one is a spring,
some dribbling slowly, some thundering or
welling up at 100,000 gallons per minute. This
mile-deep crack of a landform acts like a giant
well tapped into the tilt of the Kaibab Plateau.
Because of this tilt — higher in the north than
the south — springs on the north side of the
Grand Canyon tend to gush, while those on
the south are more dribblers and drippers,
their water waiting longer to come out. Some
of these South Rim springs are so old they do
of the walls of the Grand Canyon every day. I
once traveled to one of the larger springs, a place
called Thunder River. Backpacking down
from the North Rim side of the Grand Canyon,
I came with a friend and some rope. We climbed
along the ledge to a 400-foot waterfall cas-cading
down stair-stepped cliffs, what looked
like an entire river emerging from a limestone
face and flowing into a tangle of cottonwood
trees below. Spray twirled up around us in
the wind. The entrance into the spring was a
cave, a dark mouth in the cliff. This was where
water met daylight, the falls surging out as
if ecstatic to meet the world. I entered first,
and my partner behind me, our hands braced
against the rough rock walls so the flow didn’t
shove us back out and over the edge. Wearing
wetsuits, our bodies split the stream as we
pulled ourselves into complete darkness and
the claustrophobic roar of spring water.
The cave system carried us through low
passages and broken-down boulders with
water pouring over every surface. An hour
later, climbing and half-swimming, we
reached a yawning cavern, our headlamps
tracing faint circles over waterfalls and sub-terranean
pools around us. It was the belly of
the mother, interior of the planet, everything
around us dark, dripping. The tunnel-fed roar
we had climbed through earlier was replaced
by quiet, everything dripping and burbling.
I don’t usually think of groundwater this
way. When I envision the drenched world
below our feet, I think of it packed tight into
tiny seams under the immense weight of rock
pushing down on rock. But there are places
down there where spaces open up. I know. I
saw it. As far back as we could go in this cave,
I imagined thousands of feet above, where
you might stand on bare rock of high desert
looking out at the palisades and plunges of
the Grand Canyon, never thinking there was
water beneath you.
When we returned to the outside, soaked
and shivering, it was like crawling out of a
dark cathedral into blinding daylight. The cliff
fell beneath us, waterfall sailing and crashing.
We stood on the ledge, amazed as tiny midges
darted around our heads.
ot all good springs come off
the North Rim. The South
Rim has plenty, less theatri-cal,
not as gushing, but cer-tainly
worth the trip. These
small but reliable springs — slow drips and
pools in the back of almost any large canyon
It was our own place, a secret in the land, where
in the heat of summer we’d gather around the softball-sized
hole like supplicants. Every time we went there,
we got down on our knees and drank.
not carry background levels of radioactivity you often find in underground water
collected after mid-20th century nuclear testing.
The North Rim is frequently flushed, springs sometimes changing with the
weather. Floating down the Colorado River, you’ll notice that most of the running
tributary water comes from the right side, the north. In the limestone corridors of
Marble Canyon, you’ll see springs opening from bare rock and pouring down into
gardens of maidenhair ferns. Rowing a raft with kayaks fishing around you, keep
your eye along the cliff-edge bank through Marble Canyon. There is a place where
a small grotto is wormholed into the base of a riverside cliff. The hole is bearded
with moss and ferns. If you cut the oars just right and slide along the wall, you will
hear a waterfall inside this hole. And if the river is at the right level, you’ll glide by
close enough to glimpse inside this small cavern. Lean as far out as you can, and
you’ll see a waterfall inside. It disappears into a dark underworld, water plung-ing
About 400 million gallons of water, not including the Colorado River, spill out
— sometimes have a bitter taste of minerals from having sat for so long under-ground.
Even among these withered and wet-stained sources, there are some
springs that run sweet to taste (at least flavorless as a good spring should be). Now
and then you’ll even find a clutch of tiny orchids growing among moss and maid-enhair
ferns, places that seem drawn from some Irish fairytale.
Elves Chasm, a favorite stopover for river travelers, lies on the south side, down
from the Bass Trail. A cool stream falls and splits between massive blocks of boul-ders
tumbled as if from some ancient city. You climb through elegant sculptures
of travertine, with water rushing around you, as if from burst plumbing. It pours
over your bare skin, drapes of algae brushing through your hair.
A decade and a half ago, I came to Elves Chasm in the late fall, not by river, but
by foot. I spent Thanksgiving with a few friends camped above the chasm in the
soaring arch of a canyon. The next day, we roped off a cliff-edged rim, and below,
we ducked into the incision of Elves Chasm. If it had been summer, we would have
stripped and climbed waterfalls, but it was late November, an overcast day, and
we wore wool caps. Still, we entered a thigh-deep pool just above river level. Tired
of eating rice, beans and anything else dehydrated, we used backpack raincovers
to scoop up 17-inch non-native rainbow trout (the same species being eradicated
by the Park Service for threatening endangered native fish). Slithering and splash-ing,
we managed to capture three of them, our fingers forked through their gills.
We cooked them up right there, our clothes wrung out and drying around a drift-wood
fire while our creek flowed into the downstream roar of the Colorado River.
I used to number those springs on maps, places to return to, burbling hollows
where a cup could easily be filled. The smallest ones were sometimes the most
important, a little dripper on a summer day where you could drop to your knees
with a hallelujah.
One September day, coming out of the long, rocky sweeps of Tanner Canyon,
I found a shady alcove with a seep in the back, one of these beautiful, nameless
springs. There was enough water to touch your lips to. If you really needed to
drink, you could at least suck on sponges of moss. Drops of water beaded above
and fell from the ceiling. They landed in random syncopation, sounding like a for-est
after a rain.
Waiting for a warm day to pass, enjoying the view out my cliff-side window, I
remained in that alcove for hours listening to drips. I pulled out a pocket watch
and a pad of paper and began timing the drops. One fell every four and a half sec-onds,
and the space between drips never varied by more than a tenth of a second.
A few hours later, its timing still had not changed. Another one fell every four min-utes,
varying by no more than a few seconds each time. Every drip that I timed was
equally accurate, time being kept with the steadiness of an hourglass.
As I sat in the alcove timing the drips, I wondered about the paths water was
taking to get here. Was this South Rim snowmelt percolated down from many win-ters
ago, dates possibly going back to before nuclear testing? I let my mind travel
into the ground, following cracks and lines, spaces between rock thinner than
paper. I pictured the water world within stone, spaces between sandstone grains
wet and flowing. Somewhere, there might be an opening, a chamber no one will
ever see. There, I imagined a gentle pool big enough that I could row across it in a
small boat. With my eyes closed, the only sound I could hear inside the rock was
the purling of my wooden bow, and delicate drips chiming away in the dark.
Spring-fed water flows through The Patio
at Deer Creek, another popular visitation
site on Colorado River trips through
Grand Canyon. | DEREK VON BRIESEN
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The plight of one of the last
undammed rivers in the Southwest
has long been recognized. So far, the
San Pedro has escaped the fate of
Arizona’s other great rivers —
Salt, Gila, Santa Cruz, Colorado —
now dammed, depleted, drying up
and desiccated, their once-lush
cottonwood and willow forests all
but vanished. Will the San Pedro
escape such a death? And if it dies,
what will die with it?
BY TERRY GREENE STERLING
A south-facing aerial view of the San Pedro River, taken north
of the ghost town of Fairbank, shows the cottonwood-lined
banks where the future of the historic waterway is in peril.
SAN PEDRO RIVER
A R I Z O N A
M E X I C O
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N A WARM WINTER morning, Holly Richter guides
her quarter-horse mare down the steep, sandy banks
of the San Pedro River, just a few miles north of the
U.S./Mexico border. You can tell a lot about a woman
by how she handles her horse.
Richter, a 51-year-old river ecologist for The Nature
Conservancy, who has devoted much of her profes-sional
life to saving the San Pedro River, is a gentle and
capable rider. I trail along behind her, mounted atop Huckle-berry,
a good-hearted blue-roan donkey whose hardy ancestors
carried prospectors through the American West. Huckleberry
intuitively avoids quicksand and donkey-leg-snapping badger
holes, so I relax. A red-tailed hawk soars over the canopy of
David. In the conservation area, the river sustains about 350
species of birds, 80 species of mammals, 40 species of amphibi-ans
and reptiles, and two species of all-but-vanished native fish.
The river within the federal conservation area, managed by
the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, runs wet for most of the
year. That’s due to diverse conservation approaches funded by
public and private dollars.
In 1994, the Center for Biological Diversity, a conservation
nonprofit, filed the first of many lawsuits against the Depart-ment
of Defense and Fort Huachuca, forcing a reduction in
groundwater usage. “The problem with the San Pedro is it is an
extinction in progress,” says the center’s co-founder, a Flagstaff
emergency-room doctor named Robin Silver. “Without aggres-sive
mitigation, the river is history. The rate of withdrawal is
exceeding the rate of replenishment.”
Without the center’s litigation, Silver
says, there would be little mitigation of
the Upper San Pedro. He understands Fort
Huachuca is the key economic engine of
Cochise County, but for the river’s sake
would like to see staffing levels at Fort Hua-chuca
reduced. Humans can choose where
to live and work, he notes, but “the San
Pedro and the wildlife can’t choose where
The town of Sierra Vista does not own
a water utility; the utility is relegated to
private companies. The town recharges
some of its treated effluent near the river,
although the actual long-term effect on the
river is open to debate.
The pragmatic Nature Conservancy has
long partnered with public and private
groups to restore the Upper San Pedro. These
efforts include the capping of industrial-strength
irrigation wells and retirement of
irrigated farmlands, and a creative new proj-ect:
the transportation of storm water and
runoff collected from rural residential areas
to a recharge site near the river at Palominas.
Cochise County and Fort Huachuca partner with The Nature Con-servancy
for this project.
All of this explains why Richter, the Nature Conservancy
river ecologist who lives near the river and loves it dearly, has
lent me Huckleberry and guided me to a magical place on the
San Pedro that few know about.
“There’s got to be hope for the San Pedro,” she says.
After wading in the river, our mounts climb a cinnamon-hued
riverbank and stop beneath gray-naked limbs of a sprawl-ing
100-year-old cottonwood tree. Richter points to a series
of Z-shaped blockades of wood and twigs — beavers have
dammed this small stretch of the river, creating a blue-sky-reflecting
pool about 100 feet in diameter.
It may seem like just a pond, but it’s actually a healthy home
for insects, fish, turtles, amphibians and aquatic plants. This
pool of life offers a good food source for birds that eat insects
or tiny fish. The beaver pond helps sustain the river by retain-ing
water longer in the river channel, helping to store the river’s
survival of human beings. If you hike the well-maintained trails
of the conservation area, you’ll see historic sites that document
the story. It begins about 13,000 years ago when Clovis hunters
killed mammoths not far from where we ride. Hohokam Indians,
those irrigation experts, farmed near the San Pedro. Next came
trappers, followed by a few hardy ranchers and miners who bat-tled
the Apaches, followed by an onslaught of ranchers and min-ers
and merchants who were encouraged to settle the area after
the Apache Indians were driven out by the post-Civil-War Army.
Fort Huachuca bears witness to that historic military presence.
Richard J. Hinton’s 1877 Handbook to Arizona is a boosterish
guidebook of the Arizona Territory; it encourages ranching, min-ing
and development, in keeping with the federal government’s
wish to settle the land.
“Of Camp Huachuca and vicinity, it is reported that the coun-try
is rapidly settling up for miles around the point where the
troops are stationed,” Hinton wrote. “Here, nature has placed
side by side one of the richest valleys and mineral-producing
giant cottonwood trees. The gentle San Pedro riffs over rocks.
In the 16th century, when Spaniards first laid eyes on the
San Pedro, it was a different river. It didn’t have so many cot-tonwoods,
and floods hadn’t sliced and deepened much of the
channel. The river was mostly marshier, wetter, wider — peren-nially
flowing through Sacaton grasslands and boggy marshes.
Then fur trappers, miners, soldiers, ranchers, farmers and
developers came in successive waves, transforming the river and
threatening its future.
The plight of one of the Southwest’s last undammed rivers
has long been recognized. So far, the San Pedro has escaped the
fate of Arizona’s great rivers — Salt, Gila, Santa Cruz, Colorado
— now dammed, depleted and desiccated, their once-lush cot-tonwood
and willow forests all but vanished.
Will the San Pedro escape such a death? And if it dies, what
will die with it?
Tied to the San Pedro’s survival are the fates of millions of
migratory birds that, absent other Arizona rivers, have come to
rely on the San Pedro as a stopover or breeding ground.
Also at risk are other harbingers of our own survival — col-lectively
hundreds of species of plants, insects, mammals, rep-tiles,
fish and amphibians. If you travel the length of the San
Pedro, from its headwaters in the grasslands of Sonora, Mex-ico,
to its confluence with the Gila River near Winkelman, you
might see vermilion flycatchers, yellow-billed cuckoos, sum-mer
tanagers, green-tailed towhees, golden eagles, myriad
hummingbirds, endangered Southwestern willow flycatchers,
threatened native fishes called Gila topminnows, threatened
Chiricahua leopard frogs, black bears, beavers, deer, coyotes,
javelinas, perhaps even a thirsty jaguar.
The river’s rich biodiversity, and its iconic importance to
Arizona and the nation, have spurred notable efforts to save it.
Formed in 1998, the Upper San Pedro Partnership is a group of
stakeholders that includes conservationists, agency officials,
government officials and a representative of Fort Huachuca, the
Army base adjoining Sierra Vista. The two communities, with
their large population bases, have been blamed for significant
degradation of the groundwater aquifer beneath Sierra Vista.
The partnership has voiced a commitment to reaching a volun-tary
“sustainable yield” — restoring the upper San Pedro water-shed
near Sierra Vista so that water supplies meet both human
and ecological demands and replenish historic aquifer dewater-ing.
The partnership didn’t meet its sustainable-yield deadline
of 2011, but it’s made progress.
“The fact of the matter is that for a small community, we have
done more to protect this water resource than any other place in
the state,” says Pat Call, the partnership’s chairman and a Coch-ise
But many more conservation efforts are needed, most every-one
agrees, and some argue that not enough is being done soon
enough. Some conservationists believe that without further res-toration
of groundwater that is the river’s lifeblood, the river
will be dead by 2100. Others are optimistic that the needs of
the river, and the people who rely on its groundwater supply,
can be balanced.
In 1988, the federal government formed the San Pedro Ripar-ian
National Conservation Area, a 56,000-acre federal preserve
that stretches from the U.S./Mexico border at Palominas to St.
lifeblood, groundwater, in the stream banks.
More than a century ago, the San Pedro was called Beaver
River. The industrious rodents were key to the river’s survival
— their dams created a healthy, marshy, self-sustaining river
that was wide and shallow and surrounded by lush grasslands.
But drought, grazing practices, historic woodcutting and bea-ver
slaughter all played a part in the eventual loss of marshes.
In the early 19th century, the popularity of beaver hats prompt-ed
mountain-men trappers to slaughter most of the San Pedro bea-vers.
Absent the animals, the river began flooding, carving out a
deep channel that was more amenable to cottonwood and willow
forests than wetlands. The beavers on the Upper San Pedro today
likely hail from a group reintroduced more than a decade ago by
the BLM and the Arizona Game and Fish Department.
For thousands of years, this desert stream has ensured the
Rancho Los Fresnos sits amid rolling grasslands of Sonora, Mexico, near the headwaters of the San Pedro River.
50 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 51
belts in the Territory, so that miner and farmer may walk hand
Here’s where my DNA splices into the San Pedro narrative.
My grandfather, “Col.” William Cornell Greene, a poor Quaker
boy from Duck Creek, Wisconsin, made his way west and built
a fortune ranching and mining in the San Pedro Valley about 120
years ago. (He died more than a century ago, when his son —
my father — was a toddler.) A BLM flyer dubs my grandfather a
“copper and cattle baron, and grand promoter of the American
Southwest, with significant ties to the New York Financial Dis-trict.”
He once dammed the San Pedro. When a rival, Jim Bur-nett,
blew up the dam, the river flooded, killing my aunt and
another child. My grandfather shot and killed Burnett near the
OK Corral in Tombstone, was acquitted by a local jury, and went
on to develop a copper mine in Cananea, Sonora, near the head-waters
of the San Pedro.
Up until the 1950s, my progenitors owned ranches on both
sides of the border. In the 1940s, the family used commercial
pumps to extract river water for their Palominas alfalfa fields.
Cattle crossed over from the family’s Mexican ranch. They
grazed and rested at Palominas. Then they were herded to Hereford
where they were shipped by rail to California. Our old Palo-minas
spread is now part of the conservation area.
Sitting atop Huckleberry, gazing at a river that my own DNA
cherished and degraded, I’m happy the beavers are back. Huckleberry is Holly Richter’s donkey and her preferred
mount during the annual wet-dry mapping day — a
sear day in June when Richter oversees a group of sci-entists
and volunteers armed with GPS devices. To
document where water flows in the San Pedro, and
where it does not, volunteers trudge over every pub-licly
owned inch of the 173.6-mile river that begins in Mexico
and empties into the Gila. What’s more, mappers measure some
privately owned stretches of the river and several tributaries in
Mexico and Arizona.
In 2011, the last year for which statistics are available, Rich-ter’s
team surveyed 134.5 miles of the San Pedro. Forty-four miles
contained water. The remainder was dry.
Groundwater is the lifeblood of the San Pedro, but it is more
difficult to measure than the surface water of the river itself.
Still, you can’t save a river unless you understand the impact of
groundwater pumping on river flow. And it’s tricky to measure
it, because it moves at a glacial pace. If you pump water from
wells a few miles away from the San Pedro’s banks — in the
town of Sierra Vista, for instance — you’re still taking water out
of the aquifer feeding the San Pedro, but it might take decades
for the river to feel the results. The San Pedro’s aquifer is geo-logically
complex and vast. River restoration requires thorough
long-term groundwater monitoring to deliver critical data, but
long-term public funding for the necessary data collection is
uncertain, according to Jim Leenhouts, the associate director
of the U.S. Geological Survey’s Arizona Water Science Center.
Today, conservationists must also factor in the effects of an
ongoing drought that has diminished rainfall and snowmelt.
The drought is likely associated with climate change, most sci-entists
Juliet Stromberg, a life-sciences professor at Arizona State
acre Rancho Los Fresnos in 2005. Here, snowmelt and runoff
from Arizona’s Huachuca Mountains feed a pretty stream called
Los Fresnos, which meanders through marshes and grassy val-leys
dotted by oak trees until it joins the San Pedro. Los Fres-nos
is a nature preserve, an aquifer-restorer and river life-giver,
a guest ranch and sustainable-ranching learning center.
Without Los Fresnos, the San Pedro’s prognosis would be
more dire, but distant drug wars have caused donors to stop
supporting it. Absent adequate funding, the future of this pre-serve
is uncertain. The San Pedro runs north, from Sonora through the Upper
San Pedro Conservation Area, which ends at St. David.
From here to its confluence with the Gila, it often runs
dry. Irrigation, mining and overgrazing have exacted
harsh tolls on the river, which writer Barbara Kingsolver
once called a patient saint.
The Nature Conservancy and various public and private
partners have 11 separate conservation projects on the middle
University who co-authored a book on the
river, remains guardedly optimistic about the
San Pedro’s recovery. “We need to do a bet-ter
job of figuring out how to produce our food
and sustain our cities while maintaining ripar-ian
forests,” she says. Still, the multiple stud-ies
and conservation efforts focused on the
San Pedro give her hope. If we shower so much
attention on restoring the San Pedro, could we
not use it as a role model for restoring our other
great rivers? Like Richter, ecologist Jesus Antonio
Esquer Robles has devoted much of his
professional life to restoring the San
Pedro. He has worked for Mexican con-
servation groups and several years ago
signed on as a Nature Conservancy
staffer specializing in northern Mexico
grasslands conservation. I meet Esquer and
Daniel Toyos Martinez, a Mexican conserva-tionist
based in Sonora, in Cananea, a little
town about 40 miles south of the Arizona bor-der.
We meet at “La Casa Greene,” our former
family headquarters, a green-and-white man-sion
now owned by the Mexican government.
From the porch, you can eyeball the giant cop-per
mine that my grandfather developed for a
brief period, amid much controversy. It is now
owned by Grupo México.
The mine is a mixed blessing, just like Fort
Huachuca. It is the economic engine that Cana-nea
relies on, but it extracts massive amounts
of groundwater from the San Pedro aquifer.
We pass several industrial-sized groundwa-ter
extraction wells as we head out of Cana-nea
into a vast grassland where five tributaries
converge to form the San Pedro. This sky-island
vista consists of mountain ranges jutting up
from desert grasslands; it’s a landscape shared by Sonora and
Arizona, just like the San Pedro.
The Mexican side is less populated, a network of privately
owned cattle ranches and ejidos, communal ranches. (I should
add that this landscape was owned by my grandfather in the
last century.) Mexican conservationists like Toyos, who grew
up on an ejido, partner with local ranchers to restore grasslands,
enrich the San Pedro aquifer beneath, and protect native species
like the black-tailed prairie dog. We stop at one busy colony —
marked by telltale mounds of coffee-colored dirt, and listen to a
sentinel “bark” warnings of our arrival. Prairie dogs are key to
grassland (and aquifer) health; their little homes aerate the land
and give runoff a pathway to the aquifer. In Arizona, the animals
were regarded as a leg-breaking danger to livestock, and slaugh-tered.
Now, the Sonoran government helps Arizona repopulate
its black-tailed prairie dog population.
Mexico’s San Pedro headwaters are blessed with intact nat-ural
marshes, which explains why The Nature Conservancy
helped a Mexican conservation organization acquire the 10,000-
and lower stretches. Molly Hanson, a 38-year-old former hot-shot
crew firefighter from Washington state, manages many of
these projects. After earning a master’s degree in geography, she
worked for the Forest Service. Three years ago, she was drawn
by The Nature Conservancy’s collaborative approach, and began
working on the San Pedro because “this is where the most
On a late-winter morning, we cross the San Pedro’s graffiti-scarred
bridge near Benson. The river here is bone dry, its sands
carved by all-terrain vehicles. We bear left onto Pomerene Road,
driving north past dairy farms and irrigated fields, paralleling
the San Pedro. Our first stop is Three Links Farm, a former 2,209-
acre cotton and alfalfa farm bordering the river that reportedly
pumped 1.1 billion gallons of water out of the aquifer annually.
The Nature Conservancy purchased the land in 2002 and
immediately retired the irrigation wells and fields, secured con-servation
easements on the land to prevent development, and
divided the land into five large parcels to sell to private owners.
Two have been sold.
There’s a large house on one of the unsold parcels, and from
there we walk to the restored river, 2 miles of shallow, clear stream
passing through healthy cottonwood and willow forests. The
sounds and scents of the river rippling over sand and rocks give
testimony to the river’s resilience.
From Three Links, we drive north past the little community
of Cascabel, through a forest of healthy saguaros. Hanson points
out other conservation projects — a restored marsh, a ranch
where water-conserving native grasses feed fat cattle, the larg-est
mesquite forest in the American Southwest, a 6,900-acre river
preserve that was once a catfish and pecan farm.
An adventurous midcentury teacher named Eulalia “Sister”
Bourne lived near the San Pedro near Mammoth and wrote about
her beloved “moody river” on these pages 42 years ago. Then, as
now, this is copper-mining country that relies heavily on the San
Pedro’s lifeblood — groundwater. Bourne reported the smelter
at San Manuel used “five tons of water to every ton of ore, and
almost 40,000 tons of ore a day are processed.”
Near Winkelman, we trudge along the San Pedro’s parched
rocky streambed, past a tire, a T-shirt and a white sock.
The San Pedro is a dry scar where it empties into the dammed,
tamed Gila, at least on this winter day. Surely the drought has a
lot to do with its condition, but staring at the pink-gray rocks,
I know we all have a hand, either directly or by association, in
the condition of Arizona’s rivers. We drink and bathe in water
drawn from their aquifers, eat hamburgers and steaks, wear
leather shoes, enjoy cars and computers made of minerals mined
from the earth, munch vegetables from fields irrigated with their
waters, wear clothes manufactured from cotton. If we all work
together, can we restore a river that’s given us so much?
My thoughts are interrupted by a breeze that bends coyote
willows on the San Pedro’s banks.
They cling to life.
Dawn’s pink light silhouettes cottonwood
trees along the San Pedro River.
52 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 53
The road ends at a wide, grassy knoll
overlooking the Saddle Mountain Wil-derness.
There, a two-track road shaded
by huge overhanging firs meanders to a
long sloping meadow and more views of
the wilderness. The road isn’t suitable
for passenger cars, but over the years
people have worn rough paths around
the tree-falls. Use caution, and keep in
mind that back-road travel, including the
southern end of FR 610, requires some
The third road in this North Rim
triumvirate is Forest Road 611, which
Note: Mileages are approximate.
LENGTH: Mileage varies depending on which routes
DIRECTIONS: From Jacob Lake, drive south on State
Route 67 for approximately 30 miles to the North
Rim Country Store. From there, drive south for 1 mile
to Forest Road 22, turn left, and continue 1.3 miles to
Forest Road 610, which connects with all of the back
roads in this Scenic Drive.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance vehicle is
WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be
aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of
water. Don’t travel alone, and let someone know where
you are going and when you plan to return.
INFORMATION: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928-643-
7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab
Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial
511 to get information
on road closures, construction,
delays, weather and more.
There’s no shortage of scenery on the road to the North Rim, but the
views are even better along the back roads that lead to Saddle Mountain
Wilderness. EDITED BY ROBERT STIEVE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK DYKINGA
Despite its remote location and
broad expanse, most of the sce-nic
back roads on the Kaibab
Plateau are within striking distance of
the North Rim Country Store, a good
backup for deficiencies in planning.
Three of those roads combine to make
up this month’s Scenic Drive.
The first, Forest Road 610, starts less
than a mile to the southeast of the store,
via Forest Road 22. The road runs in two
directions (left and right), and before the
day is done, you’ll go both ways. How-ever,
begin the day by taking the south-east
leg to the right, which intersects the
Arizona Trail and passes the trailhead
for the hike to Point Imperial, for several
miles to the point where it dead-ends at
the Nankoweap Trailhead. Both of those
hikes head south into the park.
The last few miles of FR 610 are remi-niscent
of a sandy road in Maryland or
South Jersey. Unlike the high, mixed
conifer settings of the West Kaibab
viewpoints, some of the roads on the
east side — FR 610 included — are
lower in elevation and hemmed in by
locust trees and young aspens. Accord-ing
to Forest Service officials, FR 610
was built wide so land managers could
fight and then clean up the 1960 Saddle
Mountain Fire. The northern end of the
road was made for logging, along with
Forest Road 219.
FR 219 — the second of the three back
roads in this piece — shoots north from
FR 610, about halfway between the store
and the road’s southern end, and winds
for about 3 miles to Marble Viewpoint.
LEFT: An aspen flanked by a field of oxeye
daisies catches the sun near Dog Point.
OPPOSITE PAGE: Cloaked by the conifers
of Kaibab National Forest and the Saddle
Mountain Wilderness, Dog Point juts into
begins just beyond the intersection of
FR 22 and FR 610. This leg winds for
4 miles through a cool alpine forest to the
East Rim Viewpoint. From the parking
lot, there’s a short, wheelchair-accessible
trail that leads to the rim of North Can-yon
and the boundary of Saddle Moun-tain
Wilderness. The views of the canyon
and House Rock Valley below are among
the best on the Kaibab Plateau. For even
better views, the North Canyon Trail
takes off from the viewpoint. Because
the trail drops more than 2,600 feet in
its 7 miles, you won’t have time to fit the
entire route into your day’s agenda, but
it is possible to hike for an hour or so
before returning to the scenic drive.
The final leg of the day is a return
to FR 610. After backtracking on
FR 611, take FR 610 (a.k.a. Dog Point
Road) northeast for approximately
6 miles toward an overgrown dead
end. Just before that point, look for a
small road to the right — it might be
marked with a cairn. The road leads to
an incredible overlook into Dog Canyon.
Arguably, it’s the best viewpoint on
the East Rim. What’s more, even in the
middle of summer, you might have the
place to yourself. Enjoy the solitude, and
remember: Although it’ll feel like you’re
in the middle of nowhere, the North Rim
Country Store is just down the road.
That’s the beauty of the Kaibab Plateau.
For more scenic drives, pick up a
copy of our book The Back Roads.
Now in its fifth edition, the book
($19.95) features 40 of the state’s
most scenic drives. To order a
copy, visit www.arizonahighways.
54 J U LY 2 0 1 2 w w w. a r i z o n a h i g hwa y s . c om 55
Roaring Springs Canyon
Bright Angel Creek
To Jacob Lake
G R A N D C A N Y O N
N A T I O N A L P A R K
G R A N D C A N Y O N
N A T I O N A L P A R K
B R I G H T A N G E L C A N Y O N
LENGTH: 10 miles round-trip (to Roaring Springs)
ELEVATION: 8,225 to 5,221 feet
TRAILHEAD GPS: N 36˚13.020’, W 112˚03.395’
DIRECTIONS: From the Grand Canyon Lodge on the
North Rim, drive north for 2 miles to the signed right
turn for the North Kaibab Trailhead.
VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None
DOGS ALLOWED: No
HORSES ALLOWED: No
USGS MAPS: Bright Angel Point, Phantom Ranch
INFORMATION: Backcountry Office, Grand Canyon
National Park, 928-638-7875 or www.nps.gov/grca
• Plan ahead and be
• Travel and camp on
• Dispose of waste
properly and pack
out all of your trash.
• Leave what you find.
• Respect wildlife and
• Be considerate of
left behind. The makeup of the
trail itself changes, too. Above
the tunnel, the ground is sandy.
Below the tunnel, it starts getting
rocky. It’ll stay like that all the
way to the bridge, which you’ll
cross about an hour into the hike.
After the bridge, there’s a rare
uphill climb in the Canyon —
rare on a downhill hike, that is.
The rise takes you to the south-west
wall of the canyon, where
the trail follows a long ledge with
steep drop-offs to your left. It’s
along this stretch that you’ll first
hear the springs. About 15 min-utes
later, you’ll catch your first
glimpse of the water.
Eventually, about two hours
from the trailhead, you’ll come to
the mouth of the canyon and an intersec-tion.
To the right is the route to Cotton-wood
Camp and Phantom Ranch. To
the left is Roaring Springs, which is
10 minutes away. At this point, you’ll have
dropped almost 3,000 feet in elevation.
There are some picnic tables and a rest-room
at Roaring Springs. You should use
the facilities, but you should also take off
your backpack and enjoy the surround-ings.
When you’re in Maui, you expect
waterfalls like this, but not in the Grand
Canyon. It’s spectacular. Drink it in, and
remember: You still have 5 miles and
3,000 feet between you and the trailhead.
For more hikes, pick up a copy of
Arizona Highways Hiking Guide,
which features 52 of the state’s
best trails — one for each week-end
of the year, sorted by seasons.
To order a copy, visit www.arizona
hike of the month
Although this hike can get a little crowded in July, do it
anyway. The trek to Roaring Springs is about as good
as it gets. BY ROBERT STIEVE | PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM BROWNOLD
North Kaibab Trail
There are some great hikes on the
North Rim, but most of them
stay up top and stick to the
woods. You’ll get some great views of the
Canyon along the way, but those trails
won’t take you down. The North Kai-bab
Trail is the exception. If you really
want to experience the Seventh Natural
Wonder, and see what it’s like to look
up for a change, this is your best option.
But before you get started, you need to
understand something: Even though
this trail winds for 14 miles to Phantom
Ranch, the farthest you should ever go
on a day hike is to Roaring Springs. It’s
a 10-mile round-tripper, and like all
Canyon hikes, the trek down is easy, but
coming out ... well, the North Kaibab
will kill you, but what a way to go.
The trailhead is located a couple of
miles north of Grand Canyon Lodge.
Unlike its sister trail to the south, the
North Kaibab begins with big trees,
including Douglas firs, Engelmann
spruce and ponderosa pines. You’ll be
tempted to look up, but keep your eyes
on the trail. Specifically, watch out for
the mules and their unpleasant deposits.
Mule trains have the right of way in the
Canyon, and when you encounter one,
step aside and await instructions from
After about 15 minutes of switch-backing,
you’ll come to the Coconino
Overlook. If you haven’t taken the time
to gaze at the wonder before you, now is
a good time. What you’re seeing is Roar-ing
Springs Canyon, one of the many
side canyons in the Grand Canyon.
When you’re hiking back up, but still a
few hundred yards below this overlook,
you’ll hear the voices of people standing
at the overlook. There’s an echo phe-nomenon
that’ll make you think there
are people right behind you on the trail,
but they’re actually up above.
Heading downhill, you’ll come to a
restroom and a water fountain, followed
by a 20-foot tunnel. After the tunnel, the
switchbacks continue, but the trees are
OPPOSITE PAGE: The North Kaibab Trail.
BELOW: Roaring Springs is 5 miles from the
trailhead. The uphill hike includes a
difficult 3,000-foot elevation gain.
56 J U LY 2 0 1 2
Win a collec-tion
of our most
To enter, correctly
identify the location
pictured at left
and email your
answer to editor@
com — type “Where
Is This?” in the
subject line. Entries
can also be sent
to 2039 W. Lewis
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on the envelope).
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One winner will be
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in our September
issue and online at
Bridging the Gap
Too much traffic. It’s a common complaint and one that led to the construction of the bridge
shown here (at right). Its predecessor (left) was built in 1929 to accommodate travelers who
sought passage from Arizona to Utah across the Colorado River. The modern bridge is the
only roadway crossing of the river — other than another bridge a few miles upstream — for
nearly 600 miles. — KELLY KRAMER
where is this?
Answer & Winner
Vulture Mine, Wick-enburg.
to our winner,
Carolyn Goff of Sun
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Horseshoe Bend - Another one of Mother Nature’s little tricks
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